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About edi956

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  • Birthday 07/11/1956

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    Costermano (VR) - Italy
  1. Ferrari D50 chassis 010 #22 Fangio/Castellotti pole position and 8th final result 1956 Italian GP:
  2. ...and now, finally, the pair of Ferrari completely built Ferrari 801 chassis 010 #6 Musso 4th in the 1957 German GP:
  3. TYRES & WHEELS MFH did a very good job for tyres: they are a mix of turned wheels, p/e parts for the spokes and white metal central axle. Instead of following the steps of the instructions I suggest this way: the p/e spokes in the middle have a big circle or a small one: Take those with the big circle and glue together two by two; then, using the white metal axle (asterisk), end them pushing down: Do the same with the p/e spokes with small circle: Now it is possible to glue the central axle to the spokes. Before to those with a large circle and then to the other: Finally glue the turned wheel on both sides: The tyres too are very well done. The word "ENGLEBERT" is not a decal but it is in relief on the side of the tyre like TAM tyres, and it has to be painted Matt White: Tyres were sanded not too much to avoid to delete the tread and then washed to simulate wear and tear (left in the pic):
  4. EXAHUST They are white metal and coupled 2 by 2. A little work to enlarge their ends: and a different painting from instructions. They suggest Black colour, while I painted a 1:1 mix of Gun Metal-Iron plus a final wash with TAM Weathering Master D and dry Matt Aluminium:
  5. BODYWORK D50 has the whole body by white metal: whereas 801 has both resin and white metal: On the rear part of bodywork all the simulated rivets were changed with real rivets (0.4-0.7-1.0-1.2 mm) and the simulated holes were changed with real holes: On D50 the body did not fix very well at the upper arm of rear suspension, so some sanding work was needed: Moreover, paying attention to the pics of the time I doscovered that the rivets on the sides of D50 disappeared during the last races of the year, so they had to be sanded away: Those rivets were changed with others at the basis of the sides, while other rivets were added on the borders of the cockpit: Finally, on the bodywork of D50 another little change had to be done at the back of the sides and at the end of the exhausts, where the lower part of the chassis went out from bodywork:
  6. Many thanks for your appreciations. Before proceeding a thing to be underlined: on the 801 steering wheels had 3 rays for most of the season, but from Monza onwards it had 4 rays: Another part which could be improved is the seat: resins for 801 and white metal for D50, but the originals were leather covered. I took the skin by an old wallet, reducing it tickness by removing its inside tessue. Then I covered the seats and the headrests: Before somebody say something about the dimensions of the electric wire I used for D50: YES it is a bit large but I used it to cover the mistakes I made glueing the leather... ;-)
  7. Hi Warren, may be I did not explain too well. Both kits have those little tanks, but they are right for 801 only, whereas D50 had two big tanks on the side of the car: they were the mean feature of the car, separated on D50, connected to the body on Ferrari-D50. Different on the two cars was the dashboard: red for D50 aluminium for 801: One part of the kit which could be improved is the steering-wheel. That of the kit i a rounded white metal part with a central p/e, while the real car had a central aluminium part with wood up and down: So I sanded away the lower and upper part of the white metal steering (A), reducing it to a thin circle ( : Then I glued, up and down, some wood pieces, then sanded and rounded. As the real car some 0.4 mm holes were made where I put some 0.4 mm aluminium rivets. Finally I applied the circle with Ferrari logo and I painted wood with a couple of coats of transparent clear: After having prepared the steering colums, I glued the steering wheels in place:
  8. Thanks all, particularly to Kiwidave4 for his explanation. COCKPIT Plate, pedals and tunnel for the tube which runs from engine to gearbox are all p/e parts: here they are mounted but not yet washed. Few words on the tanks on each side of the cockpit. They have some p/e parts to simulate rivets (red arrow)...but I preferred to make holes and put 0.4 mm rivets: 801 had these two tanks (plus another one behind the driver): Whereas D50 had two big tanks on each side of the car, invisible from cockpit; without tanks it remains a great space not present in the real car: so I made two panels with an aluminium sheet:
  9. To finish the front of the cars it's time to fit the radiators (a little different on the two cars): and the engine trumpets with their meshes: Here D50 and 801 together: Finally a back step to finish the rear suspension. Here the whole p/e parts, then glued together: Rear suspension was mounted OOB: the upper and lower arms before and then the rear spring:
  10. FRONT SUSPENSION This is different on the two models. This is that of D50, with the whole p/e parts of the spring, before and after glueing: Now instructions say to fit these parts to the chassis (red arrows): For their right positioning I suggest to use the upper arm to keep them in position: Meanwhile brakes were prepared: they are white metal + p'e parts. All were painted with a 1:1 mix of Gunze Gun Metal and Iron: Finally brakes could be added to the front suspension: This is the front suspension of 801 already finished:
  11. Thanks to Warren for his interest to this building. Go to the front part of the car. These pics of the time show the D50 (Ferrari version) and 801, respectively: as you can see, the engine and its ancillaries are more or less the same: so I'll show you the mounting of an engine, underlineing when a difference. Here the engine block, painted Alclad Matt Aluminium (then washed with Gunze Smoke and dry black oil colour); rivets on the heads are those of the kit: Wiring for spark plugs is into this tube, where holes are virtual: so I made 0.4 mm holes (up in the pic) Then I cut two black wires (two for each side) for the connection to the distributor: meanwhile I prepared the thinner wires for the spark plugs: then I glued them in their position: moreover I cut some little black wires which I glued at the end of the previous wires, towards the engine: Finally, all the wires were connected to the tube shown before: On 801 only there were two other tubes (red arrows), which were Grey and NOT Black as the instructions said:
  12. Hi guys, happy new year to all of you. After a period of my real work with very few time for modeling, in which I opened/closed some box of kit, finally I resolved to make a couple of ancient Ferrari, which I named "Mother & Son" (like an old song of Cat Steven: "Father and Son"): Ferrari D50 and Ferrari 801. After the death of Alberto Ascari in 1955, Lancia decided to retire from competition and sold out D50 to Ferrari: side pontoons disappeared and became part of the bodywork. Thanks to this model, JM Fangio obtained his 4th World Championship in 1956. In 1957 D50 evolved into 801 (8 for the number of cylinders, and 01 for Formula 1): side pontoons completely disappeared and the tanks were divided into three smaller tanks (two on each side of the cockpit and one behind the driver); the power of the engine increased and at the front the suspension was changed with that of 555 Supersqualo. Despite new drivers such as Musso, Collins and Hawthorn no victory was achieved while Fangio, now at the wheels of Maserati, obtained his 5th World Champioship. The kits are 1/20 MFH: K049C for D50 and K236 for 801. For D50 I realized the chassis 010 which obtained pole position and 8th as final result at the 1956 Italian GP, with Fangio/Castellotti #22. For 801 I realized the chassis 010 which obtained the 4th as final result at the 1957 German GP, with Musso #6. Both kits are very well done and they could be mounted OOB...but some changes were done to improve the realism. The steps of mounting are the same for both cars: where they are different, it will be mentioned in the WIP. First step of mounting is the chassis, otherwise it is impossible to go on with the other parts. Even if instructions say to paint the chassis with Gull Grey, I preferred to use Humbrol 165 Medium Sea Grey since it better matches the original colour of the chassis: Instructions now suggest to make gearbox with the axles and the tube of the chassis: but with no reference points it is impossible to achieve a right positioning of these parts: so I preferred to glueint the gearbox only to the chassis, after having enlarged its plaques ( : then axles and tube could be glued in the right way:
  13. First version of finished project: But I was not satisfied to leave the car "opened": so I sanded the inside of the cockpit surrounder and, even not fitting very well (due to the sides of the seat), here the final version of the finished M7A:
  14. ENGINE COVER No problem for this piece (here with 3 rivets for each side added): Pay attention to the difference between practice: and race, where the rear "aerofoil" was sorther and smaller: After painting with ZP, sanding and clear coating: Dzuzfastener were added + p/e parts for the rear aerofoil; the rivets are 0.8 by Hiro. COCKPIT SURROUNDER Like the real car, the windscreen was keep in place by rivets. So I made hole in the same position, making a fitting test: Then the cockpit surrounder was painted with ZP, sanded, decalled and clear coated; moreover dzuzfastener were added: Instructions say to paint windscreen with a mix of 50+50 clear blue+clear green: for me it is too dark. I made some test with different % and finally I resolved to clear green 5 + clear blue 2: I seem that pics show a darker windscreen colour but "live" it matches well the real one. Finally the rear mirrors were put in place. Very well done by Hiro: each mirror has a withe metal piece + p/e for mirror + p/e for the plaque inside the windscreen:
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