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  1. I am slowly working my way through all the varieties of A-H aircraft camouflage schemes and have now reached the hexagonal lozenge scheme. It's one that I find attractive and eye catching so was really looking forward to using it on my Aeroclub Brandenburg Berg D1. On the paper backing it does not look too bad though the light portion seems very pale but when I started applying it to the model I had a nasty shock. I have to say that these transfers are the most difficult that I have ever worked with. They are thin, too thin in my opinion being translucent and really needing a white primer coat, curl under at the earliest opportunity. and stick almost immediately on application making placement hard to get right. Having said that, they would be acceptable if I felt that the colours on the lighter section was correct. I do not feel that they are. On applying the light section up against the dark the contrast was stark. It looked more like a barber's pole than any kind of camouflage scheme. Reading through Dr. Martin O'Connor's book Air Aces of the Austro-Hungarian Empire 1914-1918 I found references to the colour scheme of Bela Macourek and cross referencing them against my Methuen Handbook of Colour found that the colours given by O'Connor are wildly different to the ones on the transfer sheet. Given the marked contrast between the colours provided on the sheet and those from O'Connor I decided to repaint the lightest of the hexagons on the light sheet to those more in keeping with O'Connor's. My efforts have not satisfied me as trying to paint regular hexagons appears to be beyond me but I will persevere as I could not have lived with the colours as originally given. Does anyone have thoughts about these transfers as I am reluctant to try the part 2 set without other opinions as I cannot find references to the colours of the smaller oblique lozenges on the second part of PrintScales set. Thank you.
  2. Wafu, Thanks for the tip. It's just what I needed. All I've got to do now is scratch build the interior!
  3. As I am going through the process of building my Italeri Wessex HAS3 I have found a shortage of interior pictures detailing the observer station. I have managed to find a few photos of the "black boxes" located at the front of the cabin but cannot seem to find any showing the radar position, observers seat and ancillary control panels. Does anyone know of a source for such details? It seems a shame to just close everything up and not show the equipment that was the raison d'etre for this mark of Wessex. Thanks
  4. Yes, I know. What I should have made clear is that I will be taking Casey's colour and then adding/subtracting to reach the final 633, or thereabouts. That way I can get into the rough area without having to start from scratch and using the Xtracolor I will refine it and make a note of the final mix so that I can reproduce it again if I ever need to mix up another batch. I will be using acrylics as working with enamels is proving to be a nuisance, messy, smelly and it takes too long to cure.
  5. Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to get an Xtracolor tin from Hannants just to use as a standard. I will then use Casey's recipe as a basis to get me near to the final colour and mix and match until I work out what it needs to be. I agree with wellsprop. Buying things from EU countries is now a bit of a problem what with customs and excise declarations and all the convoluted steps you now have to take, so I'll give it a miss. I think that I can get near enough to the colour I need , and after all what a/c was ever the "right" colour after a few months on active service? There is another question I need to pose but I will start another thread for that as I think that this one has now reached its end. Thanks for all the help.
  6. Again thanks for all the information. I think, given all the problems I have getting Royal Mail to deliver stuff, that I will get a tin of the Hataka Blue-grey, if I can get it given that the UK is out of the customs union and getting things from the EU can be tricky. I'll use it as as a standard so that I can take Casey's recipe and fiddle around with Tamiya paint until I get a match. That way I will always be able to knock something up if I ever need it again and I will not have to fight customs and excise. That would appear to sort this little problem out but it's a shame that my copy of BS381C is quite new and doesn't have 633.
  7. Thanks for all the information. It looks like I will give the Sovereign Hobbies one a go. I would have preferred to use an acrylic as I find them a lot easier and less messy to use in my airbrush but getting the right colour is more important. Personally I can't seem to get on with the Xtracolor range and it's a shame they don't do a Xtracrylic one as I find them excellent. So looking at the price a couple of Sovereign ones may be winging my way shortly. Oh, Royal Mail. They don't like delivering to the Isle of Wight for some reason and getting stuff online is turning into a real pain. They say that the Island is treated the same as anywhere else in the UK but it doesn't seem to be true and that does mean that the price of carriage of some items is not viable for a lot of stuff. i.e £9.50 postage for an item costing £7.25. So Jamie@sovereignhobbies would you be able to post these paints to me if I order them?
  8. Guys, The 40th anniversary of the Falklands War has prompted me to dig out my Italeri Wessex HAS3. I'm going to model XP412 "Humphrey" and have come across a puzzle. According to my research Humphrey was painted BS381C:633 RAF Blue Grey but when I went to check to see that I had the right colour I found that my copy of BS381C does not have 633 listed. Strange, considering it is a well known, standard colour. I see that Humbrol 96 claims to be this colour but without an official standard I can compare it with I am reluctant to buy some. I note that Hataka has this colour in its range but at the price £21, is not something I could justify getting, and again is it the right colour? Can anyone confirm that Humbrol96 is correct or will I have to fork out a lot of cash for the Hataka set? Thanks
  9. Thanks, I had not realised that the Mickey ships were sent from the US, I thought that they had been modified in theatre, though it does say in the Osprey book that 41-28832 was damaged in action, hence the removal of the front turret and that would have been done in the ETO. I have no idea if it was a Mickey ship prior to the damage though. I think that given the results from my experiments I'll stick to using Medium Sea Grey, there's no point re-inventing the wheel and as Mr. Bell says there was a variation in the colour from different suppliers and so as no-one else is likely to be aware of the subtle difference that will be good enough for me. Thanks again, I learn something new every time I come to the site. Oh, and one last thing, as Troy Smith says in his signature "...remember ..never trust a profile without a photo" and for once I do have a photo which clears up a lot of questions about this particular subject which is why I chose to model it.
  10. I have just started building my Academy Liberator and plan to finish it as 41-28832 a B-24H Mickey ship of the 459th BG. Now the shade of grey used is said to be "a colour somewhat similar to neutral grey, but slightly more blue" ( Osprey Combat Aircraft 21 B-24 Liberator Units Of The Fifteenth Airforce by Robert F Dorr). I mixed up some paint following the instructions given in "Urban's Colour Reference Charts - United States" by Urban Fredriksson & Martin Waligorski IPMS Stockholm. I then found a tin of Humbrol 165 Medium Sea Grey and compared the two with the colour chip no. 637 in my copy of BS381C 1996. To my eye they are all very close with the Humbrol colour and the BS381C chip being as described as near to Neutral Grey but bluer. Could the Fifteenth AF have got hold of some Medium Sea Grey from RAF stocks held in Italy and used that? As most a/c from the US were delivered in a bare metal finish at this time I would have thought that maybe paint for external use would not have been readily available in the US supply chain. Evidence of this may be the numerous repairs made to Olive Drab finished a/c with bare metal patches and panels. Does anyone have any thoughts on this matter? I would refer to use paint from the tin rather than have mix up a special batch as I have found it impossible to duplicate the original mixture if touch-ups are required at a later date.
  11. I've not seen the CMR kit as I do not use full resin kits. They always seem to me to be totally against the spirit of these early a/c. The originals were light, almost ethereal, and resins have always seemed to be a bit lumpen. That's why if I get the chance I will go for vac-forms. They just seem to capture the essence of these fragile little aircraft better. Still, I'll take a look at the KP offering but will see if I can get hold of the Windsock monograph as I quite fancy scratch building another Great War aircraft. I haven't done one in a long time and I need the challenge.
  12. Thanks, I'm glad to see that KP will be issuing a kit shortly. I will take a look when it comes out. I've been a bit wary of the plans from Windsock since I was badly bitten with the plans of the FE 8. I scratch built from the plans but when I checked the dimensions they were all over the place. I contacted Ray Rimmell and to his credit he did admit that they had had trouble with the printers and sent me some lovely amended plans free of charge. Like all plans I view them with a bit of suspicion but I will order up a copy and take a look at them. Thanks again.
  13. Guys, Does anyone know of a decent set of 1/72 plans for the Dolphin? I have looked in vain for a kit but without any luck. I have in the past scratchbuilt some German a/c such as the Gotha GIV, Siemens Shuckert D lll and so on so foresee no problems with this little scout. Any replies would be gratefully received.
  14. I was struggling to rig my model of the Libramodels DH5 with some Lycra thread. It has obviously deteriorated with age and kept snapping, something I have noticed with some other previously rigged models. Instead I decided to use invisible mending thread as advised by people on several forums. The thread is nice and strong and does look the part when used. Just one problem, I had great difficulty in getting the thread in place. I tried and tried and eventually walked away in frustration. On thinking about the problem I realised that I had overlooked one aspect of invisible thread. That is it is very hard to see. Thus causing all my difficulties. I felt like Homer Simpson "Doh!". The very name should have given me a clue. In the end I solved the problem by dipping the end of the thread in some paint. That way I could see what I was doing and I am now happily rigging the model. It is sometimes true that we get so involved in a project that normal thought goes out the window but thinking about it has made me chuckle. 1/72 biplanes can be fun.
  15. AMStreet


    Black Knight, thanks for the link. I don't log in very often so would have missed John Aero's post. It so happens that I have the requisite tools and I will give it a go. It has got to be better than my pathetic efforts.
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