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Jessica

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Everything posted by Jessica

  1. That's an excellent build of a difficult kit, Fuad. The fit and finish are to your usual high standard, and I wish I could say that the model is beautiful, but it appears to have been beaten severely about the nose with an ugly stick. Oh, well. That's not your fault.
  2. I think that they're displays. Definitely an aftermarket fit And no, I don't want to bash my head into one.
  3. Oh, my. I hadn't known about that one! I though that the only available Seventy-twoth Sycamore was the Czechmaster resin kit, or the not-quite-to-scale Glencoe monster I failed at building a few (cough) years back. I think that I might need to get one, and put the BEA decals I have in the stash on it.
  4. In later years, as seats got narrower, it was possible to put in 2 + 2 seating, so the ESCI kit was correct for those aircraft. Interior layouts are highly variable, so it's best to pick an aircraft you know, and model it.
  5. You'd have to chop them off and replace them with scratch-build gear legs.
  6. The Minicraft Cherokee 140 looks like the one you're looking for.
  7. That would be because it was the engineering test article to see how a Lightning would behave at low airspeeds, so there's no surprise that it looks much like a Lightning.
  8. Cut your masking tape into thin strips. It bends better and you can follow the edges of the canopy much more easily. Outline the canopy, and then go back and fill in with small pieces of tape.
  9. I think it's the engine nacelles. I know that the -800's nacelles were bulged, but those have a neck on them like they're peanut shells. The bulge is much more subtle in 1/1 scale. Your finishing looks excellent, and it's a pity there wasn't a better model underneath it.
  10. My take on this topic: 1. Spitfire MK IX Eduard 2. Mosquito Tamiya 3. Hellcat Eduard 4. P-38 Lightning Hasegawa or Academy 5. Ju-87 Stuka Hasegawa or Airfix 6. Bf-109G Eduard 7. Fw-190 Tamiya 8. Typhoon Hasegawa 9. Me-262 Tamiya or Hobby Boss 10. P-47 Thunderbolt Tamiya
  11. The new Zvezda kit is not going to be a MAX, but I'll bet that there will be conversion kits offered before not terribly long.
  12. That's pretty! I've always liked the DC-8 better than the 707. It's much more muscular and purposeful than the Boeing
  13. I have a couple of his sheets, and I'm impressed by the crispness of the printing and his willingness to stand behind his product. I found out about missing markings on his Canadian Pacific DC-8 sheet, and not only did he provide the missing artwork, he completely revised the sheet and contacted everyone who had bought one to send them the missing marking. That's customer service! I haven't tried them yet, but they look like typical laser-printed decals. Apply over white for best colour saturation.
  14. I've done the Super DC-3, and many of their vac/resin combination kits. There's a need for filling because the resin shrinks so the gaps are beyond huge, but that's just the nature of the beast. The details are crisp and the shapes are right. Buy with confidence.
  15. ...speaking of whiffery.... There's more fiction in that film than fact.
  16. The reason you don't see them on US F-18s is that ours are -A models, which are all long retired from USN service. The -C fins were designed to be stronger after the first cracking started to happen. All the -As in service got those external stiffeners because they were already built when the weakness was discovered.
  17. Sarum green seems to be a neighbourhood in Surrey according to Google, so it's no surprise that there are arguments over what colour it is.
  18. What about contacting Canadair? They might have a scribble or two in their archives they'd be willing to share with you.
  19. It seems to be complete. I've got all the necessary parts to make one Vanguard as seen in the photos. We may need to compare once more when your kit arrives.
  20. And it's arrived! Woof! This is olde school modelling at its best Gene's instructions call for a complete balsa framework to be built inside the plastic shells before gluing them together. If anyone wants a look inside the box, it may be seen in all its glory in the first post of Kev's WIP thread.
  21. Widget is the only Delta airlines livery. All the others are mere scribblings on the airplanes.
  22. I've never been thrilled by that particular livery (and it seems Delta wasn't either judging by the haste they dropped it), but I am thrilled by your workmanship on that model and the finished result despite the way it fought you
  23. 1) This question varies for every model, but generally you need to paint small parts which will wind up inside other parts before you assemble them. Remember that glue will not adhere to painted surfaces, so always leave the edges to be glued free of paint (this takes a bit of practise). You can do the main painting after assembly, making certain to mask those places where you don't want the paint to go. Decals are usually almost the last thing you do, but you might want to leave off the small, fiddly parts (such as landing gear) which may break off while you're handling the model putting the decals on. Read through the Work in progress threads to see how other people do it, and if you see a technique you like, then borrow it. 2) Use as many coats as needed.You'll see how the paint covers when it dries. It's better to do several thin coats rather than one heavy coat. 3) Building takes as long as it takes. You can do all the gluing in an afternoon, but the model will look as though you rushed it. A model that size will take an experienced modeller a couple of weeks to build, allowing for drying time for the glue, paint and putty (and of course, all those times Real Life intrudes into your hobby time). 4) Liquid glues cure in several hours. I usually allow 6 to 8, just to be certain. Liquid glues work by chemically melting a bit of the plastic, "welding" the two parts together. The bond is very strong, but it has to be allowed to completely cure. 5) If you're not using setting solution, then wait about 15 minutes before patting off the excess water. If you've used setting solution then don't touch them for several hours. Setting solution melts the decal so it can settle down onto the model's surface like a coat of paint, and even the slightest touch will be enough to smear it all over the place.
  24. I haven't got my modelling space set up in the new house yet, so I'm obliged to wait.
  25. Dan and Ger have been reunited! Now they can live together the way they've always wanted to.
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