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XitanAhmar

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Everything posted by XitanAhmar

  1. It will clean and remove everything
  2. Just mix 1 part Dettol to 10 parts lukewarm water and leave for a few days, you can change the Dettol mix after a couple of days and hey presto bare plastic.
  3. I am using Windsor & Newton acrylic varnishes, airbrushed straight from the bottle. These varnishes dry clearly and are applied without the bother provided by airbrushing enamel varnishes, which incidentally I will never use again as long as I live. From the Art shop I bought these varnishes I noticed that they had aerosol cans of these products, so maybe you should choose to go that way and use these aerosols. On another note, I recently bought a bottle of Windsor & Newton varnish remover and it works wonders, just apply with a cotton bud and clean. I use enamel paints (Humbrol I am still old fashioned), this varnish remover doesn't attack the paint but only removes the varnish. Ideal if you done a bad job when applying the varnish.
  4. You may have noticed that contrary to the istructions sheet, I have painted the Bussard Collectors Red Clear when the instruction sheet advise to paint these in Orange Clear. I did this on purpose and not by mistake as I have running lights underneath the Bussard Collectors covers. The instruction sheet also advice to paint the outer covers of the Bussard Collectors Red Clear. I plan to keep mine clear as the dry run I had before masking the covers was fantastic and I don't want to ruin that effect. Not much work today I have mixed the paint. I am using Revell Paint and have mixed paints as instructed. Word of advice, I have marked some of the bottles with the code letter as per instruction sheet this not to create a confusion and to pick the right color for the right job.
  5. Its been a while since I posted in this thread, life had caught up with me again. Here I am, two years and two new jobs later, geared up to continue with this construction. Most of the construction and lights on the model have been finalised. The clear parts have been attached, except for the Bussard Collector covers. I am going to start with the engine section. I gave the Bussard Collectors a coat of Revell Red Clear. I mixed the Revell Red clear with a ratio of 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner. It is advisable to test the paint on scrap clear parts, in my case an empty Dr Pepper plastic bottle did the trick. 2 coatings of Red Clear were required until I got the desired effect. I masked the Bussard Collectors to airbrush the ribs in aluminium. This is a very time consuming and tedious job. A coat of aluminium was airbrushed and I have to say I was pleased with the result, even though I did it myself. I masked the Bussard Collectors again, another tedious job. All the masking on the engines has been finalised and the engines are set for painting. Now starts the fun part, hopefully. Next job on the agenda mix and prepare paints for airbrushing. Until the next time, I hope it will not be another two years.
  6. As you have noticed I haven’t posted in this blog for quite some time, I still plan to continue with this project in the near future now that summer holidays are just round the corner and I may find the time.This built was more of an experiment, I tried all sort of techniques, some for the first time. The impression I have from the silver interior is that it really reflects more light. I had read somewhere that I should paint the interior first flat black then white but looking at all sorts of reflectors I noticed that these are always silver so I tried silver. If you plan to illuminate your model forget about the Paragrafix bridge insert, there is simply no space it’s either the bridge or the LED. I went for the LED. Word of warning if you plan to construct this model be ready for new challenges in every part of the process. Good luck with your built hopefully I will continue with mine soon.
  7. Hi Chuck first I must apologize for not getting to you earlier, I regret that the only pic for the clear sprue I have is the one with all the other parts for this kit, I could not take a photo now as all the clear parts have been cut from the sprue and fixed to the model, I can only provide you with a sketch of the clear parts. As regards the model I have not abondoned this project but have in the past fortnight been working on it expect an update soon.
  8. It’s been a while since I posted an update on this model; With all the daily chores, my time for modeling has been reduced to one hour, when I’m lucky very early in the morning, before going to work. As in my previous posts, I have decided to scratch build against trying to fix parts of this model. This applies mainly to the cage section. I reinforced this idea after comparing the kit parts with various scale plans, the service and engineering modules are oversized in height (now I know what I was seeing strange on this model). These modules, kit parts 6, 7, 10, 11 are also a little arched at the top and bottom, not one of the various scale plans I have shown an arch. The floor and the roof of the modules are straight as a die As an aid for building the cage section of the module, I build jigs, sort of a 3D scale plan. I build one jig for the top half of the cage and another jig for the Service and Engineering modules, the front and rear modules cage section are of the exact size. Finally, I have also received all the materials and started experimenting with the copper tubes and plastic rod. I am using 2mm plastic rod and 3mm, with 2mm bore copper tubes. To cut the copper tubes I am using a mini pipe tube cutter I found on eBay, my advice here is; don’t even think of cutting any tubes especially copper, if you don’t have this handy tool. I have to say that I was very satisfied with my first trials. As usual I would be obliged for any suggestions and I must thank everyone that is posting on this subject. Until the next time.
  9. The Scale plans I bought of Ebay about six years ago, and I can assure you I paid a lot more than the $3.50/sheet marked on the envelope. These scale plans were by Allen Everhart JR, drawn sometime in the early 90s. I believe that the scale on these plans is all wrong. I got the cutaway drawings from http://eagle.space1999.net/ueb_down.html which was offering a very good deal I got the whole plans for 6 Euro for 4 sheets, obviously in download version. You can also visit this site http://www.starbase79.com/
  10. So first things first; plastic rods ordered, photocopies done. To answer Jetboy’s interesting comment; first of all I did a mock-up of the model and immediately noticed that the model somehow doesn't look right. I have also compared the kit with scale plans drawn by L. Allen Everhart . Though I have my doubts on the scale and measurments of these drawings the drawings look very accurate. I resized the drawings by 60% and got a close enough scale plan for this kit. This is only my second Sci Fi project and I find that Sci-Fi is very different from other categories of model building, with other categories of scale modelling, you have a photo of the real thing and you can compare without any difficulty, whilst when you are trying to build a model from a TV series from the early 70s such as Space 1999, the Eagle is usually shown for a few seconds at a time, and the shot is usually taken from far away and not much detail shown, you have to draw a line and go with the information you have at hand. Now all I have to do is wait for the postman to bring me the plastic rods and I will start cutting plastic. Will keep you informed, I take the oportunity to thank anyone who is commenting, keep those comments and suggestions coming I really appreciate them. Until the next time.
  11. Nice work Smiffy , I might go your way but I still think that scratch building is the easiest way out. I have to take this model one part at a time and explore many options how to get round this build. Thank you for the comments.
  12. The more I look up information on this kit, the more I am getting the urge to just scrap the kit and scratch built the whole lot. I have made a mockup of the kit, and the more I examine it the rougher it looks. The model appears more like a toy than a scale model, it hasn’t aged well. On closer observation, the top spinal part of the cage is oversized and has to be completely rebuilt, as does the rest of the cage. I might even go for some interior work as the passenger section is crying for some interior detailing, opening windows; I might even go for some internal lighting though the possibility is very remote. So first things first, I am going to stock up on plastic rod and photocopy the scale plans, the problem with the scale plans is that they are plans for a 20 inch 1:72 scale model whilst the Airfix model is a 12 inch model, more like a 1:110 scale model. I am going to try to build this model alongside other projects, a first for me as I like to build one model at a time. Until the next time.
  13. Thanks for your comments, regarding the Round 2 issue of the Eagle Transporter, this seems to be a reissue of the MPC kit which if I remember correctly, was a reissue of the Airfix kit. On the question of the easy or the hard way, let's just say I am going medieval on this one
  14. My next project will be the Eagle Transporter of Space 1999 fame. I will always have fond memories of the first time I watched Space 1999 on our black and white TV, this was sometime in the 1970s, I was immediately hooked to this series by the opening sequence of the crashing Eagle and the title tune. From that day onwards I always wanted to have a model of the Eagle Transporter and yes I also had a crush on Maya. I never remember seeing this model in a toy shop, we didn’t have model shops in those days, and if I ever saw one, an Airfix series 6 model was certainly out of my pocket money reach. This model was always on my wish list. I must have been bidding on an Airfix Eagle for the past 7 years until I succeeded in having the winning bid only last month. I have read online that there is going to be a reissue of this model by a different company. A reboot of the TV series Space 1999 is also in the works this time in the not too distant future of 2099. Can't wait to watch this series. The Eagle Transporter The Eagle was supposed be put in production sometime in 1990, it was a joint project between Boeing, Rockwell, BAC, and The Vehicle Assembly Section of Moon base Alpha. It is supposed to be 150’ long, 60’wide, and 28’ height. The type 2 Eagle is armed with 2 Lasers and 4 space to space missiles. The Eagle transporter has nuclear propulsion engine, and a max range of 18 Billion miles. The Airfix Kit I have read a lot of reviews on this kit none of which were kind. The kit is moulded in white plastic and somehow looks rough. My first impression is that the cage looks horrible, I see a future of stretching sprue and burned fingers, before I start cutting plastic I have to study the plans better and start watching the whole series of Space 1999. As usual I will be grateful for suggestions, Ideas and any information one might have, for this I thank you in advance. Until the next time.
  15. Now that I have returned to work after my summer vacation, my work on the Enterprise has been reduced to a snail pace. On the interior illumination front, I have finally finished all the lighting on the model. When I started building the Enterprise I had acquired an illumination set by the German Company Artemis, though this set gives you enough material to adequately illuminate this model, I have added a lot more LEDs to this model. For the engines as in my previous post I have built a circuit to create the impression of rotating blades in the bussard collectors. The Saucer For the upper half of the saucer, I used colored 3mm LEDs; 1 Red and 1 Green for the top navigation lights, 1 white 5mm LED for the bridge upper sensor dome, and 1 white 10mm LED for internal bridge lighting. Wires and LEDs are kept in place by using duct tape which is covered by kitchen foil to aid reflection in the interior of the model. The round windows under the upper dome where sprayed with clear red paint. I used this paint for the first time and I was apprehensive till I saw the results. I experimented on a soft drink plastic bottle, until I got the desired effect I required. For the lower part of the saucer I utilized the LED strips that came with the Artemis set, a blue 5mm LED was used for the impulse engine, which was then covered by a piece of fuel tank I found in my spares box, this to stop blue light reflecting in the interior of the saucer. 2 white 3mm LEDs were used for the navigational lower saucer lights and a 5mm white LED was used for the lower sensor dome light. Again duct tape covered with kitchen foil was used to keep everything in place. The lower sensor dome was covered in the interior by a piece of plastic to stop seeing through the model from the outside. The Hangar Deck For the hangar deck, I used 7 white 5mm LEDs which were distributed throughout the hull to aid in illumination of the hangar deck. 2 white 3mm LED’s were fixed in the mid-section. I also used two LED strips on the main hull. A problem I faced in the hangar deck that there are two separators model kit no’s 102 and 103 which I had to sand and shape to get the hangar halves to link together without a joint the size of the grand canyon. I have started that most tedious of jobs; sticking the clear parts to the model, an experience I have been through already as I had done this job and I had to take off the clear parts again as the paint had reacted to the clear parts. After the filling and painting of the main parts of the Enterprise this tedious job has doubled if not tripled as now I have to clean the holes from the paint build up where these clear parts are to be connected, another problem has presented itself the clear parts when stuck to the model are not flash with the exterior, I will fix this by filling the holes with crystal clear later on in the build and after all exterior painting is finished. Until the next time.
  16. Yippee Success!! The lights are a running. It took me a week to get the lights running, two ruined circuits from Ebay, ruined extra sockets, capacitors and so on, countless visits to the electronics shop, burned fingers, and reading Electronics for Dummies. I am a total novice when it comes to circuits and electronics but if I could do it, everyone can do it. To create the impression of rotating blades on the engines, I used 3mm LEDs, 4 red and 4 yellow. I attached the LED’s on the front cover of the engine, alternating the LEDs by color. A 5mm red LED was attached in the center of the circle, the 5mm LED is not part of the circuit. For the running lights circuit, I found a couple of kits on EBay, which unfortunately I ruined both kits in my haste to create the running lights. Fortunately the kits came with circuit drawings, but up to this point it these drawings were like Chinese for me, after some browsing on the net and reading Electronics for Dummies, I was able to read the circuit drawings. I had saved the ICs from both kits which I used on the new circuits. A lot of visits to the electronics shop later, I acquired a solder less breadboard and built the circuit on this board, I had running lights after a few attempts. I transferred the circuit on a solder board but I failed to have running lights. I nearly gave up of seeing the lights running; I left the project for a couple of days and out of the blue I got an idea of what I was doing wrong; the problem was, that I had left the metal between the socket connections on the solder board connected, after building a new circuit and scratching the connections between the IC socket connections it was success on the first try. This week I am returning to work after my summer holidays but I still plan to finish all the illumination in the next few days hopefully by the end of the week. Maybe I will start doing some scale modeling on the Enterprise as up to now all I have done on this kit is; filling and sanding, burning my fingers with solder and trying my hand at something I didn't have an idea of namely electronics.
  17. Not so much to report; except that finally I have finished all sanding and filling took about two weeks of tedious work. I have also added the impulse engine to the bottom half of the saucer, a minor operation was required as I had to open some apertures so that this part is illuminated. This is not easy as it sounds as the plastic is thick; I am using the Paragrafix etched set so any unsightly work will be covered. I am working on trial and error basis on the construction of the Enterprise; I have decided to make some running lights for the engines so that is next on the agenda so its fingers crossed.
  18. And then there was light! When I started on this model my knowledge about LEDs was limited to just knowing that LEDs were small light bulbs. I had never worked with LEDs. After some time browsing the internet I got some hints which I would like to share with beginners like me. LEDs have two poles, the anode and the cathode. The long pole is the anode, which is the positive. The short pole is the cathode which is the negative. You have to connect a resistor to the anode as otherwise the LED would shine for a second and then blows. You can check LEDs with your multimeter if you turn to this symbol For the Enterprise saucer I used the following LEDs: 1 Red and 1 Green 3mm LED for the top Running Lights 4 White 3mm and 2 white 5 mm LEDs for internal illumination All wires are held in place with duct tape. If this tape was good for Apollo mission I guess it is good for my Enterprise.
  19. After a week or so of playing Star Wars with filler and sandpaper on the saucer of the Enterprise, a minor operation to one of the cats at home and coping with the heat, I have finally filled the overdone surface detail on the saucer. Sanding and filling is not my favorite pastime and I had to totally fill and sand the top and bottom of the saucer twice, I used Green Stuff for filling which is quiet easy to sand. In the start of this build I had a problem with the clear parts; Revell has rectified this problem as I have received a whole sprue of clear parts within a week of sending an email. So congratulations to Revell on their very good Customer Care Department. I have also received the Photo Etched set for this kit. Next job start installing the LED’s in the saucer.
  20. Yep it is a bit of a pain to fill the whole lot in, but who said that our hobby is easy? Thanks about the advice of the 3 concentric lines, I took great care from the start not to fill these lines, as it would be very difficult to rescribe again.
  21. First of all I like to thank you for finding the time to comment on this forum. When I started assembling this model I didn't have the inclination to play star wars with sandpaper and filler on the surface of this model. The more I progress with and look at the model, and the more I watch the series, been watching the whole series of Star Trek for the past month, the more convinced that the only way with this model is the filler and sandpaper option. That is to fill the overstated surface detail.
  22. The Good news is that the interior painting of the model was done in less than 2 days. I used aerosol paint cans which save time in cleaning the airbrush. The bad news is that the paint has reacted with the masking tape and ruined all the clear parts which were fixed to the model. Could be the heat or the paint used that caused this reaction. I had to remove all the clear parts and I have to replace them. I have a couple of ideas how to replace these clear parts. First idea is emailing Revell Germany asking if its possible to buy replacement sprue. If this fails I will try to build the clear parts with Crystal Clear, the openings aren’t that big so this is Paln B, Plan C consists of buying another kit. I am not one to give up easily. Any suggestions how to replace the clear parts are most welcome. I have started soldering the LED’s which is a job not as difficult as I thought.
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