Frank.W.

Thank you for the nice comment....what's the meaning of ATB? To the making of: Now, this side of the wall has got a washing with diluted oil color "burnt umbra". I diluted the color with lighter fuel....this is cheaper than thinner for oil colors. Now the next images after the washing:

The painting on the wall of the house: After the putty was dried , I could start with the paint. First, the remains of the plaster were painted stone gray (Revell Aqua Color) . It looked like this: Then khaki brown (Revell Aqua Color) was dabbed on with a sponge. The joints were partially painted white with a fine brush. Now several bricks were painted white. First color on a brick and then simultaneously with a bristle brush over rubbed to achieve a weathering effect. Then a dry coat of plaster was done with white. Now a few joints were painted with a mixture of rust and dark earth (Revell Aqua Color). Some bricks were still painted.... brick red was too dark, so I used wood and African Brown (Revell aqua color) The edges of the door way, I have dressed up with brass mounts. The joints of the window sills were painted white - Procedure as before: first painted with white and then traced with a bristle brush. Unevenness in the joints were painted in white, it will look like excess cement. And the overall view:

The plaster has been corrected yet. By the way, plaster consists of Knauf Superkleber (Knauf super glue). There can be used other materials but this was available. The glue has proven itself as a plaster in my Dio "without food no fight or the pig from the recovery group" in german "Das Schwein vom Bergetrupp oder ohne Mampf kein Kampf". Here some impressions of the current state

Now I completed the last work with modeling clay to the brickwork. The procedure I documented with pictures again. - First, apply the glue A bit modeling clay is pressed onto the adhesive area With the file, press and tighten the joints. Press in the form of modeling clay. Procedure at the doors: - First, the adhesive is applied Then a piece of modelling clay was adjusted in length and wide This is pressed on the adhesive location and adapted That looks after customizing and treating with the bristle brush like this And so at the other door

The walls were plastered now. I've posted an example after which I myself have oriented.

Thank you for the feedback. This module of the diorama measures 60 x 60 cm. It is my intension to show the making of the diorama as well as possible. I hope you have the patience to be there until the end. The report will be very, very long. To the making of: Now I built the brickwall outside the wall. The same procedere as the other side of the wall. I used double-sided tape and self-hardened modelling clay again. This was structured with a nail file and a metall ruler. To take the monotony, I've made the basement of "concrete". The modelling clay was applied slightly thicker. Then I treated the surface with a bristle brush. I swabbed the surface. As a result, I received an irregular structure. I have just edited the lintel and the breaking point. Here again pictures: Best regards Frank

Next, the other side of the wall made of cardboard was created. Then I painted the stairs in grey. The lintel of the door has been revised and the wall received a "concrete reinforcement" used outside and inside. The window sills were bricked and the breaking point of the "concrete reinforcement" has been edited. The window sills were constructed as follows: First glue was applied, then a layer of modelling clay. These had I dry for a while and then poked with a knife into it to get a surface like cement. Then, bricks have been incorporated. The breaking point of the "concrete reinforcement" has been edited in a similar way but without bricks. Instead, I was stuck in short wires to imitate shattered concrete. In this I speared small pieces of modelling clay to simulate shattered concrete pieces.

The back of the transverse wall was created out of cardboard. It will later filled. Also have I the upper edge of the mount the stairs "bricked". The stairs was shaped rough and uneven to simulate a concrete surface.

Now I build the transvers wall. It was made of 14 mm wooden square rods. Then I brazed the handrail for the stairs.

Now the other side of the wall was made. I used the same procedere as on the first side. At first the wall of the staircase was made in the traditional way - first step two-sided tape was pasted at the wooden construction ,than modelling clay was rolled with a rolling pin and pasted on the two-sided tape - then joints engrave with the nail file - previously with the metal brackets the line of pressed, so that it not from the direction. Then the stairs has been fixed on the wall with wood glue. The broken edge of the staircase was made in the same way as the broken edge of the wall. Here the current images... the walkway was photographed from another perspective. Best regards Frank

Don't missunderstand me please. I appreciate your efforts and you have certainly given the best. But you're wrong ..... the materials are not so expensive. For the trees I would take roots .... these look much better. Sisal or hemp is cheaper than rail scenic for foliage. It is very easy to improve the diorama. You must not start new. Use the existing base as a basic set and put the new meadow onto the old one. Replace the old "trees" with the new ones (roots). The effect of the dio will be much better. Best regards Frank

Hallo, very good structure of the surface. Best regards Frank

Hallo, You are right...the photos are not very good. Take a photo without flash. Choose a background, for example blue paper. In my experience it is better to photograph with a little distance, I'm not a good fotographer, but this is my experience. The theme is interesting, but the colors are distorted by the flashlight. I would try to take new photos. The diorama: For the first figures and armour it's ok. You've taken accessoires from modell railway. In the scale this is not advisable For the meadow take sisal, sea foam and other materials....this looks more natural. Look here (scale 1/16): The materials (the ground is made from quarry sand mixed with wood glue and water): The making of: and the result (after treatment with the airbrush) Please...please don't be angry. I want to give you some tipps and I believe, this is the reason of the publishing of your diorama. This should be a motivation, don't let discourage you. Best regards Frank

Hallo Mike, 1/25 is a very difficult scale for dioramas. I would built a vignette or a small diorama without figures.There are enough examples to build a diorama without any figure. Or take a theme after the war with civilians and a wreck in Berlin. Best regards Frank

Thanks a lot for your comments. Oh no....I'm not a Diorama god....but thank you I'm a Hobby modeller like the other members in this Forum. The only secret is curiosity .... I've read a lot of reports. A little fantasy and pleasure most try. Every Little Thing in the nature or the town is very interesting. Also it's good to publish a Report of the making of. The other members will give you tipps and it's a huge Motivation for you. If you haven't seen it......here is the link to the presentation of the complete diorama. I've published it before I began this topic about the making of. Ungarn 1944 - verdächtige Geräusche hinter dem T34

The plastic pipes were not separated yet, because they give support to the provisional build-on framework. Now I build the railing. To do this, I use 2.4 mm and 1.8 mm galvanised wire, which I've bought in the do-it-yourself store. First, I have drilled 4 holes at a distance in a line in a wooden plank and there plugged the posts of the railing. Then I pinned the handrail with a clothes peg on a post and then I soldered the railing with the first post (I know why I have no profession that has to do with soldering already). Then, the remaining solder points were used. I soldered the handrail with the framework respectively walkway. With the other site I proceeded as well, had to employ only 2 posts. Both rails were still bent. My god...hopefully I have solder nothing more.... By the way, still a square piece of balsa wood as a lintel was pasted to connect both walls. This was covered with modelling clay. Here the images:

I repeat me - and I like this to do. Thank you for your feedback. At the moment I'm not planning to build an ISU-152 diorama. I've many models in 1:35 and 1:16 but no ISU-152. I could imagine a Berlin diorama with this tank. Back to this diorama: Yes, it's the Trumpeter T34 76 modell 1942. Here some pics of the interior. I haven't detailled the interior with cables and wires, because I had not the intention to show it. Nevertheless, here are some pics: And here I've found a picture with the glow in the barrel. I want to show this also. Thank you for looking once more. Best regards Frank

Thank you, guys. I've taken the photos on a white or grey background. To my mind this itensifies the optical effekt of the photo. It's better than a green backround. An alternative would be blue when parts of sky would be to see. But this is not a cold, foggy atmosphere.

Thank you for the nice comment.

Thanks for looking and for the comments. There is nothing to steal. Otherwise I should not publish the images of my dioramas. Quite the contrary - I'm happy about your motivation "to steal some of my ideas". Best regards Frank

Now, I have started with the destruction of the walkway. To do this I cutted the U-profiles of the walkway with the Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Then I bent profiles with the caliper....really unruly, the parts. The large tube I cutted with the Dremel and formed it by bending with a caliper. Also, I dented the tube with several blows with the caliper (for each work the right tool). To turn the pipe down I dented it and then shaped it as desired. The next step is the making of the railing. Here the photos of the intermediate result.

I want to add a few pictures, because the colours seem to be a little dark and the camouflage of the uniforms isn't to recognize. Best regards Frank

Hallo dear modellers This small story takes place in the Ardennes in 1944. A small force of German soldiers passes a remaining American M10, which was left by the crew in a hurry one day before. Best regards Frank

Thank you very much for your comments.

After the wall on this is pretty well advanced, I am slowly beginning with the "work equipment".First of all I soldered brass L-profiles to 6 frame carriers.Then I put a metal broomstick with the Dremel and a cutoff wheel to the correct length.This recreates a pipeline.I have placed these components on the Dio for a test. The tube is damaged still on the crack of the wall.A walk for the maintenance of the pipeline is fixed on the frame base.Other tubes and pipes are still complemented.Here the images of test. Meanwhile, I have soldered a metal section of the wooden planks .... I will never electronics technician - what a botch.For a Test, I have fixed the wooden planks.To get an idea of the size, I put the figures into the hallway.