Frank.W.

Thank you very much. It's not my intention to stop the posting...but it will be a very very long report. The making of the second module will be much more extensive than the first. Now back to the first module: Small bricolage - the door to the extension. I have just finished the door for the extension of the house as little tinkering. First I cut the lamella of a wooden blinds to narrow strips. Do not use balsa wood, as this will strongly absorb the color of subsequent treatment. Then I glued them on 2 cross bars, and provided with a diagonal reinforcing bar. You see .... I know how everything is clearly explained. Afterwards came a Washing burned umber oil paint. Then this dabbed and painted dark green after a few minutes with Revell Aqua Color. During the drying phase, I pushed the nail holes with screws. These things I have forgotten before the Washing unfortunately. After the green paint had dried on the surface, I took duct tape and taped it to the surface (press hard). When the tape was removed it removes partial the paint. This procedure I repeated several times. Then I brushed the door with a hard bristle brush. Then a washing with diluted oil paint burnt umbra. This accentuates the deeper spots. A rail connector of LGB rails (which I used for the Dio) was flexed with the Dremel and bent into shape with pliers. A hole for the pawl and one elongated drilled as keyhole. Cut a wire, bent at 90 degrees, and bonded as a pawl in the hole. Now all painted in rust. Then black. The Black swabbed so that "rust" came to light. The whole thing then glued with UHU Hart on the door. Supplementing it again with larger chunks of debris, such as parts of the roof and a few branches. I have described before the creation of the roof remains. Roofing felt from 100 abrasive paper. The branches are remnants of roots.

Thank you for your interest and the question. I had this feared also, but the needles were parched and had a green colour anyway. Otherwise I would have coloured the needles. The treatment of the grass wasn't ready.....more on that later. Best regards Frank

Then I continued on the back. At first I've molded fte ground with self hardened clay. Clay is easier to handle than plaster. I did not want to mess up the painting of the wall. Then I have treated with the wooden wall of the trench. At first a drybrushing with light gray, then here and there with black. The nails were painted in Revell Aquacolor rust and oil colours english red. Now I've built several details: Some pieces of wood were painted and glued to the Dio and a cable was added at the framework. Then I painted the clay on the other side of the wall in gray and brown wood. Now the other side: First, I sprinkled on the ground surface between the stairs and digging a thick layer of fine sand. This was soaked with a mixture of white glue / water. Gravel and forest floor of Woodland Scenics (modell railway accessoires) and finer gravel was scattered on the wet layer of sand. Then some sea foam branches were glued on it. Some bright bristles (Noch model railway accessoires) were set as tuft of grass. Now a lot of debris was spread over this part of the diorama with a teaspoon. I took a pipette to drizzle with water diluted casein glue over the rubble. After drying it fixes the rubble unvisible among each other and with the ground. The whole must dry for at least one, better two days. Today I stuck a few roots on the Dio. Then grass was set. This is from some soft pine, which is already dried. Finally came the wood debris that has been previously treated with diluted oil paint burnt umber.

the continuation of the small pipeline on the short side of the gangway has been created yet. Once again, a view of the current state. Some details, such as wires on the ground and the wires of the left walkway were added yet. Because the images were all quite small and confusing, I would like to post here a picture with a neutral background and a bigger format. Click on the link, you can see the picture in a higher resolution. Click here for a larger view

I guess it will slowly get bored. Nevertheless I do continue to present a possible detailed report of the building of the diorama. Since my last post, the following was done: I built parts of the destroyed roof. First I cut boards from balsa wood and pasted these parallel on square rods. The wood was treated with oil paint burnt umbra and spotted off. I glued emery paper (100 grit) onto this construction and ripped the paper partially. Then the paper was painted grey. Now washing in black. After that treatment with pigments African Earth and brick dust Mig pigments). Most recently, a Drybrushing of wood and sand paper with light grey. At last a Drybrushing of wood and sand paper with light grey. This was made with Revell aquacolor. Then, boards and bars from a balsa wood Board were cut. These were broken in various lengths. After that treatment with heavily diluted oil paint burned umbra and as always spotted off with a cloth. A longer brass L profile and 2 shorter U-profiles have been painted with gunnery grey. Then washing in black, spotted with a soft cloth after a short exposure time. The profiles and the wooden boards / bars were fixed at the destroyed part of the walkway and irregularly on the walkway and the rubble. Al last I treated the boards and bars witl a drybrushing and pigments. Here the photos:

Thank you very very much. Sorry that I answer only now. Best regards Frank

To amend the report: The rubble of the walkway was fixed in the same way as the rubble of the ground After the rubble was distributed, I trickled this with diluted white glue (wood glue?) with a pipette. Since I was not quite satisfied with the walkway, I have added some boards. Also a further pipeline had been added. The boards I treated as previously - heavily diluted oil paint umbra burned. Then dabbed with a cloth. After the fixing of the boards, I've treated them with pigments. The pipeline is built from a PVC pipe. First the bend/crack with a side cutter. Then treatment with Revell aqua color rust, then painted grey. After washing with black and dabbed this with a cloth after a little contact time. The tube and the boards were fixed with UHU Hart. After a treatment with diluted oil paint some boards were fixed on the rubble. For fixing I used UHU Hart.

The T34 had been shot off a few days before. Dust and debris had accrued through the battles on the wreck. This I have modeled with crushed flower pot and pigments. Additionally I had added ash to the scene of fire. The walkway had been treated with rubble and pigments. Then I burned a few boards with a blow torch. These were added to the scene of fire. After that I built a distribution box with wire and parts of another kit. Painted in gray gun, Washing in black and pigments from Mig.

The rubble received a washing with diluted oil colours burnt umbra. An ammo box from another 1:16 kit was treated in the same way and was fixed on the rubble. The metal parts on the rubble were painted. Then I began to create the scene of fire. First I fixed the left damaged track with UHU hart at the Dio. Then I created the scene of fire in matt black with the airbrush. Toward the edge a little paler becoming. Then I glued the tank onto the Dio. The model had been carefully adapted to the ground. The track I had not yet left on the rollers. First, I mixed cigarette ash with casein glue and smeared the paste on both sides next to each wheel. Then ashes were scattered on it with a spoon again and then carefully sprayed with fixative. Fixative is a spray to fix charcoal, crayon and colored pencil drawings and is to buy in a shop for art supplies. At last I led the track over the wheels, adjusted it and fixed it with glue. P.S.: Don't be afraid....the cigarette ashes don't stink Best regards Frank

Some areas were not covered with debris, others too coarse (large chunks), and others to monochrome and dark. It is important in the production of rubble to shred the pieces of the flowerpots as fine as possible This is a painstaking task, butit is worth. In my Dio the rubble at the front was too red and too coarse. For this reason, this area was worked intensively. After application of the rubble immediately pigments Europe Dust were scattered irregularly. Brick Dust I have avoided, as this is not weakened red. Also, I brushed the concrete with diluted casein glue and sprinkled it with dust from the flower pots and Europe Dust. The edges and recesses between the rails were treated intensively with Europe Dust. Proceed with care! If the ground is too wet, dissolve the pigments and there is a brown spot. The pigments were additionally fixed with fixative spray. Here are the pictures: Then I have added a bit of debris on the burst location. In addition I have made bigger chunks of the wall with clay, glued it to the Dio and "garnished" it with the rest of my self-made brick. This was refined with Brick Dust pigments from Mig. A further treatment is carried out yet.

Then came the first layer of rubble. I fixed tape around the edge and in such a way that the adhesive tape protruded the edge by half width. This should prevent the fall of rubble during construction of the diorama. Dann trug ich mit einem Teelöffel den Schutt auf. As the rubble I used crushed flower pot. This was crushed with a hammer.....a lot of work, because the crushed pieces must be very little. After the rubble was distributed, I trickled this with diluted white glue (wood glue?) with a pipette . The rubble is not yet complete. This is the current state:

Many...many thanks for the very nice comments. I've forgotten to write: The broken concrete was treated with broken stones (modell railway accessoires) and pigments Europe dust and russian earth by Mig. The ground under the rubble was painted brown. Best regards Frank

Then I started painting. First a complete painting of plaster in dark grey, heavily diluted. Then were the concreted areas without rubble in light grey dry painted. Again in white, sometimes with diluted white and then rubbed off with a soft cloth. Now the structures can be seen already very nice, above all, the shell hole The concrete on the platform was not succeeded me. When the plaster was still not dry, I would have finished it with a damp sponge. I have not done this and therefore the strokes were too much to see. This was stressed particularly by the color and very bothered me. Therefore I've redesigned again the surface. To do this, I applicated the modelling clay very thin with glue on the platform. Then the bumps were modelled with a thin spatula. After drying, everything was coloured as described above.

Now the rails and the platform edge were painted in Revell aqua color rust Then began the plaster work. With gypsum, you have to work very quickly, because it dries very quickly! First I prepared a plaster of thin consistency and applied it on with a brush. The transitions to the modelling clay had been adjusted. Then I brushed the platform surface and then the heap of rubble with plaster. At the heap of rubble I poured the plaaster out of the cup and then distributed with a brush or spatula. The 2nd layer was mixed less liquid. Now, especially fast work was required. I handled this with the palette knife. The abrupt transitions to the heap of rubble had been flattened and the border to the plywood has been edited. Now this had to dry and the next step was the painting.

Now the other side of wall. The loading ramps edge was treated. It was modeled with a structure, as if a little bit concrete was swollen through the retaining wall. Then I filled the gap between the loading ramp and the house wall. Now, I modelled a shell hole at the end of the loading ramp. A brass L profile was cut and glued to the edge of the ramp. The end of the shell hole it was bent upwards.

After that the basement stair railing was painted in gun grey- After a few days of drying (oil colours need a long time for drying) the walkway gets the boards. Then I built the wall of the trench. This covers later the gap to the next module. The spars have been edited with a knife to make shakes in the wood. The strips of balsa wood were pressed with a screw to simulate nails. Little pieces of thin wire received a little bit of glue and were pressed into the balsa wood. This simulated curved nails. The retaining wall of the trench was painted with diluted oil paint Umbra burned and this was rubbed after a short drying period with a cloth. The railing was also treated with diluted oil colour burned Umbra. The hollow space between the steps, the House wall and the retaining wall of the trench was filled with expanded plastic slabs. The hollow space was 12 cm deep - at first rests of expanded plastic slabs came into of the waste, then the hard foam plates. This measure that the plates can not be pressed. The boards were fixed with glue. Attention - not every glue is suitable!!!!!!

The painting of the framework. At first the framework was disassembled. Then it was painted in redbrown. After this the framework was painted black. During the drying phase, I adapted the ground to the right chain of T34. The adjust of the track was made with a piece of rigid foam plate, then the fine work with modelling clay. After drying I painted the framework in gun grey (Revell aquacolor). I placed it to dry again on the diorama. Now I have glued the pipeline and made some paint repairs, I had not seen at lamplight and the wooden planks of the walkway received a first painting. This was made with diluted umbra burned oil paint. I painted always 10 wooden planks and swabbed them with a soft cloth gently. The pipeline was protected against rolling away with wooden wedges. I do not know whether this is absolutely correct, but it looks plausible in my opinion. The painting of framework was dried ... now the washing had to produce. First english red oil paint were applied in little spots with a toothpick. Then this was blurred with a large, soft brush . Now a color broth was produced with diluted oil paint umbra burned and the the framework was washed with the same brush. The top of the pipeline was treated. Spots of english red oil paints were applied with a toothpick. Blure the spots without any pressure....so to avoid strip! Since framework is aged within just a few minutes to at least 30 years The images (the oil paint was slightly wet still) Now, the "marriage" between wall and framework took place at last. The framework was fixed with glue on the wooden beam and pressed on.

Now, I adapted the left track to the surface. Also in this case, the modelling clay is the easiest solution. A strip is flat kneaded and pressed onto the surface. First of course glue is applied. Now the tank is placed and the chain can be adjusted without much effort. Of course, this is only a test and not a final fixation on the ground. By the way, traces of vehicles on a diorama can be created very simply in this way. I built a wall phone (destroyed) from a trailer for the 2 cm flak 1: 35. Because I have no idea what looks like an old phone from inside, I downloaded an image of an old phone and transfered this right to my phone. This should be an old phone in a metal box - pretty damaged like the building. For this I took the Box, several parts of the leftovers box, wires from a twirled tow rope, and a leftover from a frame of photo etched parts. Now it looks so: This was painted with white, black and brown. Then a washing in black and treatment with Mig pigments Europe Dust. The phone I have built right next to the door. Think it is quite good.

The ground next to the left rail has been filled with modelling clay. As usual first double-sided tape, then the modelling clay. So that it will not be flat, the clay was treated with a knife and a hard brush. It was plucked, pressed, stretched, squeezed etc. etc. Then, the shell hole on this side has been edited. Chunks of concrete were formed (with the above mentioned tools) and glued on. The edges must have a crumbly appearance. The problem is that the material show an unwanted buckling at the pressures and this is an unwanted effect. To achieve this I use 2 tools - one to form and the other, to exert pressure. Unfortunately I have not 4 hands, otherwise I would have been able to take pictures during the construction . Unfortunately, the images have almost no depth effect due to the white color of the material. P.S.: I recommend modelling clay for modeling a shell hole....Plaster dries too quickly and you need a lot of time for correct modelling of the shell hole.

Thank you for your comments. Now I know, what's the meaning of ATB I am very pleased that like the diorama. For both modules (T34 wreck and King Tiger) I have used about 6 months. I'm building for pleasure. Thanks for the interest, once more. Best regards Frank

Don't be so strict ... everyone has to start small. I think it's good that the diorama was presented here. How can we learn otherwise. Only by constructive criticism and not by crushing condemnation. This is my opinion and so we should encourage each beginner. I also write, although my English is terrible. Best regards Frank

Thank you for your nice comments. Both modules are indeed big - 130 x 60 cm. I do not know what it could have interest for museum. The build was a lot of fun, just the feedback. Now I had built the damaged electrical connection at the wall. I used wire and white wooden pearls to imitate it. This was treated with orange chalk and oil colour english red for a rusty effekt.

Now the level of the soil was adapted to the upper edge of the rails. At first a piece of grey board - 2,1 mm thick - was adapted to the place between the rails and glued onto the plywood base. The shell hole has been bypassed. Then two-sided tape was fixed onto the grey board. After that white modelling clay was rolled with the rolling pin to the appropriate thickness and was laid on the double-sided tape. Now the modelling clay was adapted to the space between the rails with a knife. Then modelling clay was kneaded a piece of round. It was glued into the shell hole and was molded. The border of the shell hole was modeled with small pieces of modelling clay, which were glued to the edge of the shell hole. The ground and the edge of the shell hole was structured with a knife. Here some pictures. The armoring iron on the first pictures was removed. The tracks received screws. To do this, I separated just the relevant parts of the LGB railway sleepers and fixed it to the Rails. Due to a tip, I removed the iron reinforcement of the concrete slabs of the Granattrichters. The expanded plastic slab under the T34 was adapted and glued. I made the adaption in the fresh air with the blowtorch.

Now I started with the painting of the wall. First, the plaster was painted with heavily diluted stonegrey. Then I painted some bricks in white, others in Africa Brown (Revell aqua color). Some joints have been painted white (was unnecessary). Then I watered the walls and wiped salt with a brush partial against the wall. After a short time diluted white was applied cloudy with the Spraygun. After a short time of drying, the salt was scrubbed from the wall with a bristle brush. And again a little further! The washing of the wall was done. This was done with strongly diluted oil colour burnt umbra and a wide, soft brush. The wall looks now pretty grubby. The effects of the salt were to see on the grey plaster only, the modelling clay had absorbed the diluted oil colour like a sponge. Advantage of this property, however, is that the joints were dyed pretty irregular. So, the colour treatment of the joints was previously not in vain.

Then I continued the making of the diorama at the other side of the wall. I bought rails from LGB garden modell railroad. The scale is 1:22,5, but the profile of the rail is very high. So I could use it for this scale. I separated the Railway-sleeper from the track profiles. First, from a 1 cm-thick plywood, I sawed in the "roadbed". Then, 2 parallel lines with a distance of 90 mm were drawn with a pencil. This corresponds to the German standard gauge. Then I sawed from the edge of diorama according to. The track profiles were glued along the lines on the Board. Unfortunately, I had forgotten the shell-hole. The tank was positioned and the contour of the shell hole was drawn onto the board. A rail was removed for further processing. The shell-hole was cut out and the rail was bent as desired.The rail must be heated for bending. Then the rail was glued onto the board, again. L-profiles have been glued to the inside of the rail profiles. The level of the soil was still adapted to the upper edge of the rails. Now I cut the 4 cm thick hard foam plates and created the correct surface of the soil. It is only pasted after the painting of the wall. On this pictures you can see the right position of the T34.