Frank.W.

Thank you very very much. Here are a few photos. Unfortunately, only the lamplight. I have crushed a flower pot with a hammer and drizzled with a water / white glue mixture. Then I have edited some details with pigments. I'll publish new fotos the next days.

Now some rebar were supplemented. In addition, a ruined grid near the wall

Thanks a lot. To make the scene more believable, I built a booby trap with parts of the ammunition of the centurion and a wire. The wire was fixed at the wall and the booby trap. The Palestinians got the task to lure the tank into the trap. The direct route to heaven for him. That's the reason, the man is standing there and it seems more logical.

Thank you very much. Now I have lubricated a few Arabic phrases on the wall

Thank you. Now I completed the rubbles with a tarpaulin, a wheel und a lot of boards and bars.

Now I added some chunks of concrete. Sorry, something bad lighting conditions .... still no flash, so the colors are not too distorted.

Thank you very much, Lee. The structure of the wall was created with self-curing modeling clay. This has been rolled thin and fixed with adhesive on the plywood board. The structure was modeled using a spatula. Then it was painted with the airbrush and treated with diluted oil paint burnt umber. The rubble was also painted with the airbrush and partial treated with diluted oil paint. The figure and the Citroen were fixed with glue.

Thank you very much. Now I have started the Dio. On a board 30 x 45 cm and 4 cm thickness, it should arise. As Template I took a photo of http://www.spiegel.de. The basic structure of the wall was created from a sheet of plywood Then I created the base of the diorama. As a basis I took foam panels. This I coated with a mixture of water, white glue and fine sand. Then I distributed the debris of hardened plaster.

Thank you very, very much for the great feedback. I 'll call the diorama " David vs Goliath" like the Story of the bible. But this time the israelian tank is Goliath and a palestinian militant is David. For this I've cut the barrett of one figure and and wrapped a piece of a paper handkerchief around the head. The figure was painted and treated with oil paint and pigments. The pictures are very bad, because of the light. Sorry. The palestinian seems to be tired of life, but what is he doing to get to djanna.

A very nice kit and a good work. I'll follow this thread.

Now I have fixed the remaining parts. The soft top is created from a layer of paper handkerchief. Plastic roof put on and cut paper to get the right size. By painting (soak with color) is the handkerchief stiff and stays in shape. The chrome parts was painted over with a silk matte clear coat to soften the extreme shine. Treatment with pigments that were fixed with lighter fluid. The marks are still missing .... but have no idea how Arabic license plate looks like. Here are the pictures:

Thank you very much. Indeed, another version of this kit was delivered with an electric motor. But this model has a complete interior. The details are not very fine, but in 1972 it was a top kit. Anyone who has ever read one of my construction reports will know that I am a friend of animal welfare ;-). The Centurion should be presented on a small diorama. The angle mirror must wait, but of course be added . The natural habitat of the Israeli Centurion (this kit should be one - despite deficits in more or less detail) is either the desert , or a small village in the Arab world . Since there are no figures and accessoires in scale 1:25 I decided to bring a bit of action . A car - pretty shot up serves as a barricade , should be overrun by the Centurion . I have decided on a Citroen 2 CV ..... this vehicle was to find everywhere in the world and was built decades . As another vehicle a beetle would have come into question , but the 2 CV ( Revell ) struck me first in his hands. So how do you build a car , which is being rolled over by a tank ? First, I dented the front on the right side . The side separated from the innsassenkabine , ie cut at the weld. The fender and the side wall , chassis parts, etc. were bent under heat . Extreme care ! ! Not burn and by no means too much heat, otherwise it looks very very bad! ! ! The basic form of the parts must be maintained in any case! ! Bottom heat the plastic shrinks very quickly and no longer looks like bent metal. With the mini drill " shot holes" were drilled into the left side and the rear. The modules chassis with engine , complete interior and body were assembled separately and then painted . First black, then ironcoloured , then rust-coloured various edges. Then treatment with hair spray, mask the edges and shot holes with mustard. After that, the body paint was applied gray. The seats were painted purple . The entire interior - engine , seats, instrument panel were subjected to a Washing with oil paint umber burnt . After that treated with pigments umbra . The vehicle was outside scrubbed with a bristle brush soaked with water and brown pigments and blotted with a cloth. The over -painted mustard was removed carefully with a small knife . Here are some photos:

Thank you very much for the comments :-) Here is a picture of the fully suspended drive. Even the shift lever are movable. The fitting of the Track isn't ok.(this is of course no problem, but just looks not good in the picture) The colours of the Photo are not correct, but I have no other photo of the suspension.

Thank you very much for your comments. Yes, it's a nice kit. And over 40 years old!!!!! Now I have worked on the chassis. Washing with highly diluted oil paint umbra. Then discreet treating of the wheels, chassis and hull with pigments. Nothing looks worse than an exaggerated treatment with pigments. Rather less and the repeat. The tracks were first lightly sprayed with light beige. Which was followed by treatment with pigments that are rubbed into the structures of the moistened chain. This was done with lighter petrol. The straps on the turret were painted. Antennas drawn from sprue, glued and painted. A dry brushing was done with 2nd Light from the color set of Valejo "Desert War" Here you can beautifully emphasize the cast structure of the turret.

Now I have done the chipping as a last act of today . These were made of small dots with a light base color painted on the edges and then smaller dots in black grey. This method increases the 3D effect. Here are pictures in daylight: Of course, there's to do a treatment of the wheels and the tracks and a few details of the hull. Forgive my horrible english, please. Best regards Frank (lappes) Forgive my horrible english, please. Best regards Frank (lappes)

Now the wheels were painted ( tire rubber ) Then one or the other detail. The markings on the skirts were airbrushed. Copy the decals through the masking film, but pay attention to the right side of the masking tape ! ! Otherwise, the paintwork is reversed. After the painting of the markings treat the kit with a weathering with oil paint burnt umber heavy diluted with lighter petrol . Apply with a brush small dots of color on the tank and spread this with a brush and many lighter petrol. But beware: not too many dots ..... rather than too much treatmaent again ! ! and one more thing: the base color must be absolutely dry , otherwise there are problems ! ! ! Now even came a discreet treatment with pigments umbra , in which the color kit " Desert War " by Valejo Model Air are included.

Here is the continuation under embezzlement of the intermediate steps: The Centurion is built as a tank of the IDF (Israeli army) .... however, not entitled toauthenticity. The gun is probably wrong, although the kit present the Israeli flag. In addition, the Israeli tanks have several MG on the tower. However, I like the desert varnish better, even though I have not chosen certainly real. Here is the continuation under embezzlement of the intermediate steps: The Centurion is built as a tank of the IDF (Israeli army) .... however, not entitled to authenticity. The gun is probably wrong, although the kit present the Israeli decals. In addition, the Israeli tanks have several MG on the tower. However, I like the desert varnish better, even though I have not chosen certainly real. I used the colors of Valejo Air "Desert War", a not particularly inexpensive affair, about 36, - € But a great compilation with primer, shades, lights, pigments, varnish and resin to simulate mud. So far I have, however, only the basic tones applied to the clear coat. A detailed painting (tools, wheels, Washing, chipping) still takes place. Here are the pictures of the construction progress to date: Unfortunately, the photos are a little too bright. You do not see the slight color variations. But still it must be ensured that the paint is relatively bright. On the one hand a reduction of the original should always be brighter than the reality. On the other darkens the whole thing during the follow-up treatment.

Meanwhile, I had already built several modules. Since I do not intend to represent that model open, the internal color will not be as extensive. Consequently, I built most of the components already , but I fixed this not in or on the hull. The chassis took due to the very complex suspension construction quite a bit of time. The rest took longer than expected. The modules can stuck together without glue and give a nice impression of the finished model . In my opinion, the proportions of the Centurion are very well made ​​and the model has nothing toy exemplary . Only the smaller details are somewhat crudely or simply impressed ( lashing rings , for example) However, the structure of the turret I had to treat with adhesive and a hard brush, as the turret was molded smooth. This is in reality made ​​of cast iron with a rough structure.

Dear modellers , after a long abstinence I decided to build something out of my rich fund . It is a Tamiya kit from 1972 , the Centurion tank. I bought the kit about 2 years ago. The model was reduced from 89.99 to 59 , - €... because I could not resist Originally, the model was designed for electric motor operation ... in the kit is a more or less good interior. Thank God, finally I build only static models. I really wanted to build not publish because it should only be out of the box . You get unfortunately no accessoires like a gun barrel 105mm or etched . But after I had looked at the model in more detail , I found it not so bad . Much of course is not on the state of the art. I interpreted this model is actually a welcome training object for future craft and especially painting sessions . Nevertheless, I will also add a little Dio , although this is likely to be quite sparse.Because the IDF version has been used almost exclusively in the desert. I ask details to apologize , I would like to built a 105 mm protected , as it would certainly be correct . I do not know if the IDF early version has been used with the 20 pdr gun (84 mm). Enough wrote : Here are the pictures of the kit:

Thank you very much for the great feedback. It's very difficult for me to translate the report and so I made a break........Sorry. Soon, I'll continue the report. Thank you once more The King Tiger is from Trumpeter....that's right.

Thank you very much, Nige. For your comment and your interest. The upper hull is fixed with little magnets. In this way it can be removed very easily. I've fixed a few blades of a hobby knife on the track covers of the lower hull. These were painted with the interior paint. You can see it on the images of the interior. Best regards Frank

Thank you for the great feedback :-) But I was not really satisfied with my work after a while. The tank seams me not dirty enough. So I decided to treat the tank with pigments and oil paint once more. Here are the Pictures: and here without diorama (Sorry, the light wasn't good)

The figures were not completely finished yet, but I turned to the last section now: the construction of the diorama part 2. At first I started with the destroyed building. Analogous to the first module I build the basic structure of grey cardboard and balsa wood. In addition a sheet of grey cardboard (2.1 mm thick) was cutted a piece of 30x50 cm. The windows and basement windows were drawn and cut out. This was reinforced with a balsa square wood (15x15 mm). Balsa can be worked fantastic with a sharp knife. Since it is a corner of a house, the other Wall was built in the same way. In the basement there is a breakthrough to enter the dig.

Then some details were added and detail paintings werde done. The SS soldier with helmet still got his eating utensils, a blanket, the MP 40 The painting was completed, for example: the lenses painted in black and silver and painted with glossy clearcoat. The thirsty tank driver got his microphone, headphones and wiring. The copper cable was simply painted with matt varnish to take away the shine. The bottle was painted in green and painted with gloss clear coat. The "boss" got his MP and the missing arm. The figures were given a dry brushing with white oil paint. All figures received a treating with pigments Europe Dust. The shoulder straps of the guns are still attached. Here are the pictures:

Thank you for the nice feedback. I'm glad you like it. In recent days, I continued to build and paint the figures. The faces were painted with oil paints. The camouflage with acrylics. First in Hobby Color khaki gray, then larger camouflage stripes in Revell skin color , Hobby Color chocolate brown, Hobbycolor olive green. Then on each stripe I dabbed little spots of the other color, i.e.: on skin color olive and brown spots etc. For test two figures had received a filter of thinned oil paint green. Here the pictures: Now all camouflage uniforms had received a washing in oil colors green, the grey uniforms of dark grey oil paints. Many details were painted ... hand grenades, belts and buckles etc. By washing the figures shone quite strong, After dryingthe figures were airbrushed in clear coat mat. Furthermore, I have painted the rear fenders of the tank, first anti-rust red, then dark yellow, then partial brightened dark yellow. Then a chipping with light yellow and brown black. Washing in thinned oil paint burnt umber. Finally, a treatment with pigments from Mig Europe Dust. Then the fenders were fixed to the rear.