MetroRacing

Hi nick. Slightly off topic ut do you know where I could get some gravel tyres that fit the ESCI/Revell mk2 wheels. A pet peeve of mine is slicks on a gravel event Ashley

Wow. All these little changes certainly improve the look of the kit a lot. And great tips for those who wish to follow suit. Ashley

Thanks guys. Link updated Ashley

Ok can't believe someone hasn't posted this yet, but a couple of days ago Beemax posted 5 pics out of the blue to their Facebook page with the heading New project for 2017 The pics are of a full detail Lancia Delta S4 Rally car. Needless to say, I'm very excited. Ashley

Micro sol might be fine as you tend to put that on after the decal's in place. But stay away from Micro set. I used it for a couple of decals on the first of my 6 and it stuck the decals as soon as they hit the surface, so no chance to move their position without causing them to tear or wrinkle up. Just use cold water and be patient, you should be fine Ashley

Nice. I have the 6 car set. That one doesn't include any diorama bases though. Bad luck about the focus shell. Maybe the clear parts will straighten it with a bit of force and super glue lol. As for the seatbelt decals. I just put them on the seats. Not really any point in trying to make them look 3D as you won't really seem much of them through the tiny windows lol plus if you want realistic you'd need to extend them back and mount the to the non existent rollcage haha. Beware the decals though. They are very very thin and warm water only makes them softer and likely to tear and wrinkle. Also I wouldn't recommend setting solutions on them either. Good luck with the kits. I'll be watching along. Ashley

Glad you managed to get the truck you wanted. like I mentioned previously the engine is wrong but that can be ignored really as it won't be seen. But the truck really should be right hand drive and there is a conversion set avaliable. I understand you wanting to build it oob though. The reason mines still in the box is because I found out about the dash and my ocd won't let me build it unless it's right haha. Here's some things from Renaissance that might be of use if you're planning a service diorama. Subaru service tent (no picture unfortunately but their is a pic of the Ford one they do on the last link of this post to give you an idea lol http://www.renaissance-models.com/ter/index.php/autos-toutes-echelles/echelle-1-24/accessoires/produits/193-tente-d-assistance-rallye-subaru Banners http://www.renaissance-models.com/ter/index.php/autos-toutes-echelles/echelle-1-24/accessoires/produits/226-barriere-publicitaire-pour-assistance-subaru Service ramps http://www.renaissance-models.com/ter/index.php/autos-toutes-echelles/echelle-1-24/accessoires/produits/174-rampes-d-assistance Stands http://www.renaissance-models.com/ter/index.php/autos-toutes-echelles/echelle-1-24/accessoires/produits/239-chandelles-d-assistance-rallye How the ramps and stands work is that the cars drive up onto the ramps to give clearance for the jacks to slide underneath. Ground clearance isn't the best on tarmac events lol. Once the car was jacked up the stands would be inserted into the holes in the cars sills to support it. If you want to look at what else Renaissance do in their accessories range. Here's the link http://www.renaissance-models.com/ter/index.php/autos-toutes-echelles/echelle-1-24/accessoires?limit=0&limitstart= Keep up the progress. You're basically building my planned diorama except I was going to use the Rally GB car. Much of the accessory stuff I've been posting was part of my research, so I'm very up on what's out there for it lol. Ashley

Rally plates for the 2001 Finland and New Zealand rally http://www.coloradodecals.com/detalhe.asp?Grup=3&prod=661 Looking good so far mate. Ashley PS Turrets is the correct name. Sometimes called towers as well.

Looks great mate Ashley

You might want to check out Colorado decals. They used to do rally plate sheets for the early 2000's. They also do/did some full rally sheets for Focus's etc. There might be something of use on there. Also the reg plate for Burn's New Zealand car is X7 SRT. Not X4 which is on a lot of 1/43 diecast models for some reason? http://media.gettyimages.com/photos/richard-burns-right-and-codriver-robert-reid-on-the-bonett-of-their-picture-id55799964 Ashley

Your pics are upside down mate. But looking good. especially the colour. I built Tamiya's Street custom version in a similar colour. I used Ford Signal green. WIP and RFI are on here somewhere lol. Ashley

X20 was used by Burns on the rally de France. So is pretty close in event to the new Zealand rally. It was later used on the Rally GB and is likely still in the spec with which it competed on that event. The WRC2000 cars definitely had the bonnet scoop blocked off. And all the pics I've found so far show the scoop blanked off on the 2001's as well. The picture from the Catalunya event of X7 could be the top of the filter housing. Maybe they attached it to the bonnet so it was lifted out the way during service, giving quick access to the filter itself. And engine pre heaters are only used for cold starting to reduce damage to the engines internals causes by the oil being cold and therefore more viscose. Turbo cars especially do not want hot air entering the intake system as the turbo adds heat to the air, hence the need for the intercooler. The colder the air, the more dense it is. Meaning you can actually get more air into the same space than if it was warmer. More air means a longer burn when the fuel is ignited. Therefore more power. Ashley

I found the pics from a Google search for S7 WRC engine. They feature on this site: http://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-general-1/702615-wrc-type-inlet-system.html Both pics from the catalogue show the system in the pics I've posted. I found this pic that shows the system used on a later built car: Different again and notice the gravel wheels. I think this is the gravel set up, but air still enters via the bonnet opening. The intake air comes through the large opening in the bonnet and straight down through the big black box. I assume it then goes through the filter you show in your second catalogue pic to the turbo. then to the intercooler shown at the front. I think first things first is to find out what rallies X8 and X20 competed in to see if that could give a clue to the differences in set up. Ashley edit: @Schwarz-Brot notice the openings hidden in the bumper near the lights in front of the intercooler. those are the intake air openings. the big black box must be an exit for the air after passing through the intercooler. If hot air is exiting the bonnet opening, the scoop will definitely be blocked off as you want as cool air as possible entering the system. X7 and X8 do not feature this!

Looking good so far. It's interesting that Prodrive started using the bonnet scoop again in 2001, when for the 2000 cars they left it blanked off and used the 'nostrils' instead lol. As the bottom of the engine is essentially moulded as part of the Tamiya chassis, wouldn't it be easier to cut the resin engine in half as it were, and just use the top? As far as I'm aware Photoetching it designed in a computer program and printed using a Laser cutter. 1 - 1.5 mm brass or steel is the norm for modelling. Ashley Edit: I was correct in my hunch. The bonnet scoop was still blanked off and using the bonnet cut out for the air intake. The Reg of the car checks out if you compare to my list of cars from a previous post. Ex works car X8 SRT.

Thanks Roger Ashley

For the decals. the scheme should be the same throughout the year. so what you'll need to convert it to the New Zealand rally are. -Richard Burns and Co driver names, national flags and blood groups. Assuming they still showed blood groups at that point, can't remember without looking. Obtainable from the Rally GB kit. -Rally plates for the NZ rally and the sponsor decals for the tops of the door number squares. -Richard Burns race number for the event. Or had they changed to the Ranking numbers by then? So the number would be the same throughout the year. Again from the GB kit if the latter. -Reg plates for the car. -And finally, the 555 decals. I think I'm right in thinking the car ran with the cigarette sponsors on that event. at least they used to lol. These should be avaliable but probably only as decals for another rally. If you have a Laser printer I'd suggest getting decal paper for laser printers. Crafty Computer Paper stock both ink jet and laser printer types. You'll probably need both white and clear paper to make the additional decals you need, but depends on how much of the above list you can source ready made. For flocking, it's basically a powder that you glue to the surface of what your painting to create a textured look. personally I mostly don't bother with it as it looks way over scale. Occasionally though I do 'flock' carpets ect, but I don't use actually flocking as it's fairly expensive for what it is. I use flour, paint the primer or Base colour of the part, sieve on the flour and the pour the excess of quickly. leaving it covered until the Base paint is dry usually clumps more flour together and you again get an out of scale texture. then just over paint in you colour of choice. Also speaking of colours, you are aware that Tamiya's TS-50 isn't the correct shade for the 2001 cars correct? Zero paints do the correct one but it's for airbrushes. if you have one great but if not it's a bit of a corner, unless like me TS-50 will do lol. And finally Photoetching. There are two main types, brass and steel. All automotive etch I've come across has been the steel type. Also there are companies that cut the etch out completely and have them stuck to a sticky backing. Easy to peel of with a scalpel blade. The main type though is having the etch attached to a fret with tiny tabs. use a hard flat surface to press the fret against and use a chisel tip blade to break the tab. For any folds that need to be made, try to use a hard flat surface wherever possible and a scalpel blade to start the fold. Fingers if you can to complete it. But a couple pairs of tweezers are essential here really. For gluing etch there are two glues that I use. For things that excess glue won't be a problem, I use superglue. for things that glue to the body, like bonnet pins and the like, I use pva glue. Hope that's of use lol. Ashley

That looks stunning Ashley

With regard to the Italeri truck. I got mine for £70 on an eBay auction. keep an eye out and eventually you'll get lucky. The truck itself has the wrong engine being a 14L V8 when it should be an 11L straight 6. Nothing really can be done about that. It's also left hand drive when it should be right hand drive. There is a dashboard conversion available, the company escapes me at this moment. There's also Photo Etch available for the Scania too, from 2 companies I believe. And the other 1/24 2001 Impreza available. Just say clear of the Heller one and the Airfix reboxed of it. Tamiya is better in every way lol. Ashley

Wow talk about dragging this back up lol. No worries mate. Thanks for the comment Thanks. The wheels were Stripped of the chrome plating, possibly sprayed matt black and painted with humbrol 11 by hand I believe. The rest of the chrome was again Stripped, painted with Mr Hobby Chrome and given a black enamel wash, which actually Re liquefied, if that's the right term, the chrome paint and the black mixed with it to create a weird but nice dark chrome colour. No worries mate. At least you've caught it now lol. Ashley

Ok I've been doing some more digging. First off I'd go for the Rally GB car as tamiya produced a kit of that car as although Burns didn't win the rally, he won the Championship at the event. I have that kit and it is in gravel spec, correct wheels, tyres and suspension. The kit also comes with night stage lights and driver and Co driver figures, if you then buy Tamiya's rally mechanic's set you get some Subaru technicians to add to your diorama. I was planning on the same with Italeri's Subaru rally team truck set, swapping the 2001 rally de France car for the Rally GB kit. Next thanks for helping me with the Prodrive naming. I couldn't remember where it started but I've figured it out now. 2001 - S7 WRC 2002 - S8 WRC 2003 - S9 WRC 2004 - S10 WRC 2005 - S11 WRC 2006 - S12 2007/2008 - S12b 2008 - S14 The rally Giants book gives all the Reg plates used each year and they all usually sequential. For 2001 the list of reg plates are: X1 SRT X2 SRT X3 SRT X4 SRT X5 SRT X6 SRT X7 SRT X8 SRT X9 SRT X10 SRT X11 SRT X12 SRT X14 SRT X15 SRT X16 SRT X17 SRT X19 SRT X20 SRT X21 SRT So no X13 or X18 In 2002 X23 SRT X24 SRT X26 SRT X27 SRT X28 SRT PR02 SRT PS02 SRT PS02 SSS PT02 SRT TM02 SRT TM02 SSS No X22 or X25 Basically all the X reg cars are 2001 spec but not all are S7 cars as I've found a online advert offering an X reg S8 for sale. Rally Finland 2002 was the first disappearance of the roof scoop. The little 'scoop' is the tv video camera and was fitted to all top team cars from 2002 onwards. there is usually a small round dome at the back of it, that is the GPS transmitter. Tbh I wouldn't worry about all the changes made to the cars during their development if you're building a 2001. decide what event you want to build, easiest is Rally GB like previously mentioned. And try and find as many detail pics as you can for that event. Ashley

I found this @Schwarz-Brot whilst I was searching for my own projects. http://www.renaissance-models.com/ter/index.php/autos-toutes-echelles/echelle-1-24/transkits/produits/1696-subaru-impreza-wrc-2001 The spare wheel will only help if you're building a tarmac car but the rest might be of some use. Ashley

As mentioned above, check out hiroboy. they sell a EJ20 Engine from Hobby Design. I think it's designed for the Hasegawa Group A cars, but as the engine is essentially the same could be used as a nice Base for building the 207 version. http://www.hiroboy.com/124_Subaru_Impreza_EJ20_Engine_Kit--product--8186.html Again hiroboy offer a wide selection of kevlar and carbon decal sheets in various patterns. Scale Motorsport is a good brand and the one I use for kevlar decals. http://www.hiroboy.com/Carbon_Kevlar--category--128.html I think regarding the name of the 2001 car. Like a lot of cars of the period I believe its correct name is the Impreza WRC01. And each year doesn't always denote what car was used. Like I mentioned in my thread the WRC02 wasn't used until Rally De France of that year. And the Focus WRC RS08 was used into the 2010 season. Sometimes I find searching for the event and year turn up more accurate pics, for example. 2001 rally GB Subaru. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Ashley

I'm not 100% but I don't think there is an official importer for Fujimi kits, same goes for Aoshima I think. If a shop or online retailer sells them it's because they've imported them themselves. At least that's what I've heard from a couple of places that stock them. So getting replacement parts might might be a struggle. Contact whomever you brought the kit from, as long as it wasn't a ebay or similar purchase, they should be able to at least try and source a replacement part for you. Ashley

Hopefully scaled up to 1/24 to appeal to the wider automotive market Ashley

Don't pay more than the retail for the Rally Giants books. Whilst good to have they are only small thin books and sacrifice picture volume for info. I've dug my Impreza one out and it only goes up to the end of 2005. Interestingly the 2000 car is called the WRC200. Weird!? lol. And wasn't used til the Rally Portugal of that year. For 2001 all of the technilogy was carried over from the WRC200 into the new bodyshell. So basically a rebody. The rollcage is very similar to the 2000 car. Which is a headache for anyone wanting to build an accurate 1/24 using the Reji transkit and the '98 or '99 Tamiya kits. Throughout the 2001 season the engine and engine bay air flow was under continous development, and the car was actually under weight and had to be balasted up to meet the required miniumum wight figure. The 2001 car was carried over into the 2002 season and wasn't replaced untill Corisca in March. The only differences to the 2002 was a Lighter and Stronger engine flywheel, a revised Exhuast Manifold, Changes to the Water injection system, a Larger front splitter and improvements to the cockpit ventilation which did away with the roof vent. No other changes where made to the car during the season as the team focused on developing the 2003 car. Hope that helps mate. Ashley