IPMS19
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Posts posted by IPMS19
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- To continue, it is time to join the fuselage halves before a last glimpse at the cockpit and the forward wheel well and its weight
- Before centing the halvves I used some tape as a protectiv measure against finger cement prints- TH putty used is a mixture of cyano cement and resin powder for the homogeneity of materials before painting- Here the kit show it resin nature.The fitting of the fuselage halves requires some triming of the inside parts to achieve a correct fit, that is not surprising owing the the extent of details inclued in the fuselage-
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Just aquired a Trumpeted "1/72" Harbin H5 (Chinese Beagle).
This is now my reference thread
I put 1/72 in quotes, as my calculations make it 1/70 -
Trumpeter pilot is in the middle:
-Hi John,
I will post another part of my work very soon.I hope my building gives you some hand....Aboiut the pilot from which planet does he comes from ?
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-Well, ltes go for another photo trial, just to show the W I P with the bomb bay, the strike camera and the extent of detail of this kit keepinh in mind it is a resin one, even tne inside of the engine naceles are detailed........
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-Only one pics t^just to try photobucket again
-Send you more later,if its works
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- As always in 48, the two versions in the same post
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- As always in 48, the two versions in the same post
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-Well ,another trial, hope it works....
- Some views of the bomb bay, strike camera and only to show the quality of this model the begining of the engines nacelles.I built hundred of kits either plastic, vacu or resin but it is the first time I see such details on a resin kit, even inside the engine nacelle......
- Please Mr Webmaster delete these two posts ' ll try later -
- OUPS....Problem with Photobucket
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- Find someone who's got one and 1) torture him or 2) kidnap his kids/grandma/wife/hamster and trade them for it
- Sell one of your kidneys (or better, find someone's kidney and sell it) and buy a kit on eBay if you can find it (a kidney might not be enough, so keep your donor's heart, liver and corneas handy).
- I have an old mother in law does it works.....?
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The nose is not ESCI but Kazan (the ESCI nose is terrible!). The adaption was no problem except hours and days of filling and sanding...
- Where to get Kazan transkits?
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-Congratulations for your beautifu modell , how is the integration of the ESCI nose to the trumpeter fuselage ?
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Lovely job, considering buying this kit myself, also being tempted by the 1/32 Walrus!
Just wondering if there's a 'canopy open' option for the pilot's cockpit, or would you have to cut up the closed one?
- There is no open option for the pilot canopy so we have to enter a small surgeonnery.To cater for an eventual problem I've asked HPH to send me another canopy ,they sent me a whole clear parts set.
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-Yes it is, see page 4 don 't ask me why I don't know........
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-I didn't figur there was such a difference between a B1 and a B2 , at which scale are your models ?
-In your very nice introducing text you are speaking of the " great British preservation acts," Happy man you don't know the French counter part........
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-Wow ... ! what a journey......can't say which I have the best.......The Albatross with its horse .?,the Vampire with its wood panels..? The Lightning and its opened hatches....? Impossible to make my mind....I take them all......Vous etes un artiste Monsieur..!
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By the way, I recommend the following Russian book if you can find it:
V.P.
-This book seems to be hard to find,,thanks Homebe for taking care of answering
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- I would have like to find this find earlier, thank you for sharing
- For the weathering ,the basic metal color is made of Alclad white alumium, ,the Hinomaru are painted, themetal blotches are made of liquid mask applied from place to place with small pieces of sponge almost dry before spraying the black color and to give the "misty "effect near the wing roots and engine I lightly drybrush rub'n buff
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-The third part of the inside before joining the fuselage halves is the bomb bay.
The parts are numerous which means a very well detailed area, the wiring and plumbing job excepted and as I want to show the bomb bay doors opened I cannot live with an almost naked bomb bay.HPH gives a ful bomb load to hide this but I 'll used them in a last ditch.
I 've found some drawing and a few fragmentary photos but not enough to have a good idea of the thing which were,and on the available books most of the photos show external parts of the beast so I will be very grateful if some one knowing more on this would share his knowledge with me.
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- A HIEN in a may be strange color, I trusted the decals sheet instruction giving it for black.I think it could have been possible as it is a late war machine used in a Kamikaze unit as indicated by the unit badge on the fin. In those days of the war some machine, mostly Ki 100 very reputed to have been charcoal grey camoufflaged, so why not a Ki 61.....
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- A HIEN in a may be strange color, I trusted the decals sheet instruction giving it for black.I think it could have been possible as it is a late war machine used in a Kamikaze unit as indicated by the unit badge on the fin. In those days of the war some machine, mostly Ki 100 very reputed to have been charcoal grey camoufflaged, so why not a Ki 61.....
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- As a follow on of this work in progress topic, I had to work on the nose compartment and gunner station.
-As Norman says till now it is just a modelling affair. In fact the fitting of the different parts is so good that it is. built just like a classic kit, the main difference being the cement required.
- The troubles may comes when the time of the assembling of the two fuselage halves, or the matting of the wings to fuselage or the clear parts arrives
- A place I woudln't have like to seat in- I just regret the lack of documentationon the crew stations in regard of the ammount of tubing and wires every where as it was the rule on the machines of these days even if the great amount of green coaming on the walls limit their visible numbers-Openning tht navigator and gunner hatches are trouble free but some care has to be taken as the resin may break easily owing to it very fine thickness-
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- The job is proceeding smoothly.
- Few troubles except that it is very difficult to identify the parts needed .Apparently the reason is the system of notice on a DVD which need to be printed to be efficiently used.So I elected to carefully find the parts required for a given module, identify the colors of ,the elements and proceed the building
The building is no real problem.I choose to use the photoetched parts as they are very well detailed,( better than a hand painted part ) The only little problem comes with the throttle handles.HPH gives us resin handles, they are more precise in shape than photoetched parts but they are oversized
-Part 98 does not fit the photoetched part inded and has to be made from scratch.It is the only bug I have noticed- Then the things goes smoothlythe small table of the navigator given in photoetched is replaced by another o,e in clear plastic as the real one-
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That does look smashingly well done. The weathering looks particularly good.
Are you happy to tell me how you added the lighter patches on the panels?
-For having a lighter shade on panels, either I use a lightened basic color sprayed randomly ,or as in this case, some Tamiya weathering pastels if the background color permit it according to the availables patels colors afforded by Tamiya.
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Another nice Draken from you!!!
what pylons did you use for the wing tanks (Hasegawa ones I suppose)?
I plan to do an Austrian one on delivery from Sweden, these actually had 4 tanks, and pictures exist!!:
YOu can just make out the wing tank between the 2 men on the left of the photo:
If I infringe any copyright issues, please just remove the pictures, as far as I know these were published in an Austrian newspaper in 1988 credits unknown to me, only for research use.
- In fact I gave this Draken a wrong designation.,In truth, it is a S 35 E , "S" standing for Swedish "Spanning" which means reco, For the wing tanks I used the transkit "Apparat 15 " which inclued the two wing countermeasure pods and two wing pylons for the wing tanks from Maestro models
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-ILLIOUCHINE Il 28 BEAGLE
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
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- Many people have the same way of thinking about resin kit as you.In fact most modeller triggered by the temptation have already used after market transkit , or only resin pieces.So they are more or less used to this material
- Building a resin kit is like building a round of the mill plastic kit, removing resin flashes if ever, trimming, sanding, drilling; Removing the parts from sprue is easy, I use a Dremel with a circular saw and with a sanding ring then the good old wet sanding paper,For the clear part a dremel or for those a bit hamfisted nail scissors ( watch yoiur wife) before painting don't forget to wash the parts to remove the moulding grease.Then a base coat of neutral colored paint.and it accept every kind of paint
- The main difference is the mandatory use cyano cement with the care surroundind its use .Wearing a dust mask avoid breathing resin powder and it 's all
-Not all resin kits are of the quality of these new HPH kits but appliyng these few rules allow you to have kit you often dream of waiting after the good will of Tamigawa San .Building a resin kit is very enjoyable and rewarding. Resin kit are often expensive, just avoid buying one or two classic kit that every body shows on exhibits table and you show a model nobody or few people can boast of.