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Alan R

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Everything posted by Alan R

  1. Hi Gary, I had a similar problem with an Accurate Miniatures Grumman BiPlane. I would try a steel rule, suitably de-greased and a very sharp scalpel blade. I use No 26 blades on a Swann-Moreton type 4 handle. Cuts through the decal paper like a hot knife through butter... Cheers, Alan.
  2. Hi All, I have three bike kits on the go at the moment and two of them have fairings on them. In both cases, these have stalled because of the fairings! The Team Gallina RGB500 because of the decalling, the RC30 because of the transparent fairing. I'm panning to paint the fairing, but I always get problems painting clear plastic with zero-paints. Might try doing it with Tamiya acrylic white over white stynylres. Not that I have any white stynylres yet... Cheers, Alan.
  3. I have seen this in the shops and often wondered over the years whether I should buy one! I am so tempted! They appear on the bay from time to time. Still, I have so many on the go, and many, many more in the stash waiting. One more may be one too many ... Cheers, Alan.
  4. That's a serious amount of Wonga...
  5. It's not so much a particular kit, but the prospect of gloss-coating all the ones that have reached that stage! I have had trouble in the past getting a good smooth gloss finish, no matter what paints I use. I think I have about seven models awaiting gloss coating... However, I have just successfully managed to gloss-coat the BMW Z-1 body and a few other parts. Only the doors (?) gave me some problems, but that was due to not checking for dust particles already on them! (Doh!) If I have followed the recommended steps in the first place, I would have greater success, Anyway, this time i did: Ensure all is dust free (including doors!) Spray over the part a light dust coat, evenly. Leave for ten to twenty minutes (depending on the paint being sprayed) Repeat steps 2 & 3 a could of times Apply a much deeper 'wet' coat Finally, leave well alone for a long while. I think that. in the past, it was all down to impatience. I don't like this stage, so let's get it done quickly... This is my primary lesson, take your time and follow the right procedures. So, does this mean that I will approach more clear spraying with less trepidation? Probably not. Each session is a new start. Sorry for the rambling post... Cheers, Alan. P.S. The gloss finish on the doors is event and deep, just those b****y dust spots!
  6. I really fancy the Minivan as my uncle had one in the late 60s. He used it to carry his gig equipment. The band even released a single. Got into the UK top 100 (just!) Cheers, Alan.
  7. I have on the windowsill in out conservatory, a 1/35th Tamiya Quad Gun Tractor that I built in 1976 as a way of relaxing when doing my degree finals. It's still in one piece. Nothing has fallen off (45 yeas and many, many moves) and the paint finish (hairy sticked!) isn't too bad. That's almost all I have left from then... (Apart from my degree ...) Cheers, Alan.
  8. I keep longingly looking at the MFH kits on HiroBoy, but always the price stops me in my tracks. One day .... maybe. Cheers, Alan. P.S. I have to get it past the family accountant ...
  9. I am going to have to try Bare Metal Foil sometime...
  10. I built this kit years ago as a kid. All these gaps didn't seem to be a problem to me then. Much less critical eye then (50 plus years ago) Cheers, Alan.
  11. Looks a damn sight better than mine. I gave up and tossed it on the shelf of doom. The chassis rails were warped and I snapped a number of bits trying to unwarp it! I still have it, I may revisit it, seeing how good a job you have done! (After I have finished my current work load...) Cheers, Alan.
  12. Hi Spiny, I built this kit when it originally came out 40 (ish ?) years ago. I mucked up the paintwork on the body then, but i did get the ignition wiring right, even the firing order (I think ) I recently bought this again, and have so far completed the engine. (I think I have a build for it somewhere here...) I noticed a bit of flash on mine that I don't recall on my original one. Beware also, some of the parts are very fragile, especially around the steering area. I shall key an eye on this for some inspiration... Cheers, Alan.
  13. Good reason not to have a cat ... Cheers, Alan.
  14. Hi All, I have tried this approach with limited success. I have always found that proper 'buffing' of the edge of the tape with something hard, but smooth works for me, though I like the idea of a damp cotton bud (The modeller's friend ...) BTW, I think you are doing a sterling job on this kit... Cheers, Alan.
  15. I can't really think of five, but: Bandai 1/20th Fiat X 1/9 (or whatever the nomenclature is) Tamiya Aston Martin DBS 1/24 Matchbox 1/32 Porsche 935 (Also boxed by Revell) There are probably loads more. but for the moment.... Cheers, Alan.
  16. Borderline MOT failure there I would say... Lovely work there... Cheers, Alan.
  17. I have only built a few of the Fujimi 'Enthusiast' models over the years (A couple of Porkers and a Ferrari Dino), but here are my observations. They are complicated kits with very many (some may say too many!) parts, so dry fit and trim (very carefully) before committing to cement. They do seem to build up into quite accurate replicas with some care. As others have observed, the engine does build really well and the fit is good, though I do remember the Dino exhaust manifolds s were a nightmare! Beware the wheels. On all of my enthusiast models, the hubs have moulded on wheel studs (Similar to the real thing, I suppose). You can get an alignment issue when fitting the wheels. Certainly on the two Porsches, I had problems, but the Dino was a lot easier. Body fit to the chassis can be an issue, certainly at times with the Dino, I thought that the shell was going to split, but after a bit of wriggling and twisting, it popped into place. I must admit that with the Dino, I kind-of lost interest for a while, due to the complexity, but I eventually finished it. here's a link to my build: Hope that helps, Alan.
  18. That's the kind of masking that has me running scared ...
  19. I think that I prefer the Mk 1, but I understand your preference for the Mk 2. My dad had a 1500 deluxe Mk1, brand new in 1966 Goodwood Green it was. Later he had a 1600 Mk2 Saluki Bronze. I never drove the Mk 1, but I did (quite a bit) the Mk 2. My dad was a bit of a Ford fan... Mk1, Mk2, 2 Mk3s (1600GT, 2000E), Zephyr 4 (1700) Mk 3, First shape Granada (2000), Second shape Granada (2.3), Mondeo and last car was a Fiesta Mk 4 (The boxy one). I'm surprised I can remember them all TBH. Nearing retirement age, the old grey cells aren't what they used to be... Ah, memories. Cheers, Alan.
  20. I concur completely! The rule I break the most is the second.. I'm a stubborn git, and don't know when to take a break!
  21. Just spotted this lunch. A late model Sunbeam Alpine, with the slightly less prominent rear wings... No piccies, as I was driving. Cheers, Alan.
  22. It's surely due to what we like as a model makes it viable in our eyes, methinks... I really would like a 1/24th modern technology mould of the Lotus Cortina. Come on Tamiya... No personal bias there at all ... Cheers, Alan.
  23. I have lost count of the number of times I have stripped and re-primed only to have to do it again (and again...) It's nearly always the roof that's the main culprit. I have re-primed the roof of my Ford GT yet again, but now I think tat my air-brush nozzle is shot as I'm getting paint 'splodges' all over the place. I thins a new nozzle is in order, but at 14 quit a shot, I'm reluctant to spend the money.. (Skinflint!) I wonder if I'm using too low a pressure? Cheers, Alan.
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