Jump to content

Nigel Heath

Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Nigel Heath

  1. Looks great, I will now pop over to the gallery for a closer inspection.
  2. I do like the yellow wheel marks, they are something I had not spotted as yet and will definitely be including in my build.
  3. I had the chance to get a little airbrushing done tonight. I masked the oil tank with some 1mm discs of punched masking tape and then after applying some metal primer to the seat pivot, followed by some Alclad grey primer to both I then finished them with some interior grey. Here is how they looked after the discs of masking had been removed from the tank: After dinner the paint was dry so I installed the oil tank just using some forgiving Gator Grip glue. Glue was hardly necessary but it felt like the right thing to do: Next, if I am going to
  4. There are just a few jobs to complete before the fuselage can be closed up, the first was to get the various lead wire cables installed: Next the cabin seat: All that was a bit of a struggle. I then did a check that the two fuselage halves would now actually mate up, it seemed they would with a bit of persuasion: There are also a couple of painting jobs to be completed too, somehow the little hinge pivot for the fold down seat has been left behind and still needs a coat of paint (I had thought maybe I had lo
  5. OK, the last job of tonight was to get the cabin floor / cockpit assembly installed in the LHS fuselage side using a combination of CA, liquid poly and liquid cement so this should be a very permanent fix: I will leave that to fully harden up overnight ready for more work tomorrow. Bye till then, Nigel
  6. Well, I felt it was a rather non-critical area and could live a little dangerously... Tonight I have continued with the cabin windows. These were about the smallest dabs of 2K epoxy I could extrude from the tubes: With one mix per window there was probably about an 80% wastage but never mind. You know it always pays to check your references, the photo on the decal instructions isn't up to much as reference sources go but it does clearly show that the bubble window is the second one back: So the individually number
  7. I'm not sure, I don't have any plans but this build was the most fun build I have ever undertaken. I'm also not sure how AA would take to any challenge to him being the most Supreme Being in the household.
  8. Last night I got a bit more done, the mounting pins for the rotors are meant to be trapped between the fuselage halves by this flange on their lower end: I like the rotors to be able to rotate but would prefer it if they could be just dropped into place so set about removing the flange with snips: Fully cleaned up, this is how it will sit in it's mounting: Tonight, straight after getting back from work I broke out the airbrush and, not bothering with primer, applied some matt black to the inside of the rear pylon. Here
  9. After cleaning up the seams on the rotor blades and hubs the first bit of detailing I did was to drill out the lightening holes on the hubs, 0.6, 0.7 and 0.8mm holes fitted the bill. Three times three blades times two rotors equaled 18 holes in total: With that done I assembled both rotors: And unlike the instructions they do actually intend to turn in different directions. In case anyone has any issues with my file work in creating the slots on the front pylons, the real slots can be pretty wobbly in real life, check this out:
  10. On the front pylon I emphasised some of the panel lines where the cover shut lines are: Still on the hunt for holes going into the fuselage I identified the mounting points for the pitot tubes which are just moulded as depressions. The arm of the pitot tubes have an aerofoil section so I broke out my selection of brass Strutz and selected the smallest size and drilled out an elongated slot as appropriate: As the front pilon will be white I packed the RH slots to preserve the black finish of the light baffle: There are q
  11. Here is the LHS at an intermediate stage of being sorted out: And here it is done: I'm quite pleased with that, I just need to give it a fire polish with some liquid poly and this job can be ticked off the list. Here's how it looks from the front with the liquid poly polish: Having seen that photo I think I can improve on that a little. I think this is a little bit better: Having created those slots I also realised that they needed a light baffle, An almost ready made ex
  12. Yesterday, I looked out the invoice for my camera. It turned out that I bought it on 21/5/2018 so I was just inside my one year guarantee (by four days). I then contacted Park Cameras - where I bought my camera from - and Panasonic UK. They were all fine about it and recommended buying a spare battery which I did. That should arrive on Tuesday. Anyway when I looked again at my camera tonight it showed a spark of life and said that the battery was fully discharged. I immediately put it back on charge and it now seems fine - phew - so let's continue. For the exhaust thingy I started
  13. Some black card is definitely a worthwhile investment, I have had my sheet for years, no actually decades, but I can see a requirement for new stock soon, probably at Telford. I had wonderous updates to make tonight but it appears that my camera has died, rats and double rats. Something I will now have to try to sort out in the afternoon. Or try to upload photos from my phone...
  14. The main job I wanted to tackle tonight was to put in a light baffle at the front of the rear pylon. My first step was, as usual to create a cardboard template: After some refinement that was then used to mark out some black card in my usual thrifty manner: I used some Blu Tack blobs to hold it in place to check on fitment, was able to trim it further and then confirm it all went together OK: I then cut out some buttresses from some scraps of 1.5mm card left over from my Dalek build to secure the whole thing in place:
  15. Interesting that they are just covers which goes some way to explain their enormous apparent diameter. As to the colour, to my eyes they do seem to have a more metallic "dark steel" appearance from the rest of the exhaust interior which is effectively just matt black. My thinking is to use a combination of these dark metallic Alclad's shown here to build up the observed appearance:
  16. Tonight's job was to tackle the drive shafts seen in the main engine exhausts ( I now admit to their existence, silly Nigey). They do look incredibly chunky (see photo at the top of this page), I had a choice of brass rod, plastic coated steel rod and straight plastic rod, in the end I decided that 2mm black plastic rod was the best option, This means that the shafts were >140mm in diameter - incredible (please check out on a ruler near you), and I think this might slightly underestimate their size. Anyway the job was started by drilling a pilot hole in the RHS exhaust:
  17. Ah, now I see what you mean. Still I think my efforts with the mesh and APU exhaust, while not strictly accurate, do add some interest value.
  18. Apologies for my inaccuracies but I am irrevocably committed to this so will continue. I have looked at the link but can't quite see what you mean. Due to the nice weather over the weekend I got absolutely no modelling done which was a bit of a shame. I have however got a bit more done tonight. I decided that the best solution for the mesh on the tail should be of the PE variety, any sort of woven mesh, including the tea bag mesh would just unravel on such a small partl. A bit of engine mesh, surplus from my Flying Banana build, looked like the best option even though i
  19. I have done a bit more work on the oil tank, getting it to sit just right and it is now mounted up ready for painting but hardly photographic. In the same vein I have also done a bit more on the rotors but again not really worth a photo. What is worth a photo or two is the work I have done on the rear end, the kit offers a blank canvas: Again like the side door this is ripe for improvement. Here is what it should look like and the main reference shots that I am using: After some careful work with various fil
  20. Thanks, the instructions on my kit are now peppered with my little sketches but they really do help to get things illuminated in my head. On the rotor blades, although the kit instructions have them unhanded and rotating in the same apparent direction the actual moulded plastic is handed and has got it right: Thank goodness for that. Wrong: Also wrong: Anyway, pressing on, this how the little tubular drum feature looked mounted up on its location pin: The dru
  21. Of course it's a drive shaft, silly old me. Looking through newly created slots I realized that another light blanking plate was required on the LHS: Now for that bit of structure that can be seen through the main slot, which is clearly an oil tank of some sort, my starting point was as ever a thumbnail sketch on the instructions: The best bit of material I had for this was some 3.2mm thick walled tube which I have had for years but don't ever recall getting any use from before: Once it's position had been e
  22. I don't think the silvery thing is a drive shaft, it's just a reflection:
  23. I do indeed and weren't they a bit pants but your use of it here looks quite effective. My choice would be Mike Grant "Cockpit Details".
  24. Good work on the underside seam, looks to be pretty much sorted out now.
  25. Patience my young Padawan, modelling is not a race, it is more a way of soaking up vast tracts of time in focused concentration and effort - I intend to lavish all the attention on this model that is deserves. I know there is a deadline looming but my plan is now to work on it every evening before the end of the GB in the hope of meeting the completion date. Wish me luck. Here is how I marked up for and made the light baffle from some black - light absorbing card while being frugal with my materials: I then fixed in place the second bit of engine ducting:
  • Create New...