noeyedears

wow, that is looking really impressive. love the close ups of your engineers fingers, they look worse than mine and i work in a factory.

turned out really well, mate. i followed the build and picked up many tips for when i , eventually, get around to doing mine. thanks and well done.

Seeing the two kits side by side was very helpful , thanks. It going to be the Flanker first i think, it really does look a mean bitch . I looked at the decal sheet but to be honest I dont really know what i am looking at or how i would use any of them. I would be doing a russian version so if there are any good russian markings in the set then yes id be interested, but i would need advice (or a lot of googling) to know which ones i would need for what colour scheme.

ahh that sounds possible, nuts.

oh god, im going to end up with both at this rate dave , ill look at the sheet tomoz, at work at the mo

holy cow, dont think i' ve seen one better. the cover may be there to cover a crack but it also gives it that spark of individuality which adds to the final result. inspired. may i ask if it is flat coated or anything.

if anyone who has this set would be kind enough to post a pic of the instructions I would be very grateful. jh

bump on the zap ca. thin med and thick (thin is fastest) best bottles ive used ,never seal themselves shut.

Settled, flanker it is!! Im thinking acadamy 1/48 scale, anyone done this one?

wow! nice detailing.

I would like to build a modern soviet fighter/bomber. If anyone has built both of these planes could they say which one is the most impressive oob when done? (ie which one would you rather not meet in a dark alley for fear of having you face punced in and your beer tokens stolen by it) I am not worried about which is more accurate or aftermarket stuff, I can sort that out myself if i feel like it. I just want the most evil looking of the pair. Ta!

Genius, reminds me of the lightning one at bruntingthorpe.

I use the foam squares as i find them easier to use than cloth. you can cut them into strips to get it odd places too. Never used humbrol varnish im afraid. i use either tamiya or zero 2k. I do about 4 coats and leave it for about 4 days (or longer if the coats are thick.) watch all raised detail, edges, decals etc as they are the places you will go right through to the base colour (and then you will swear like F"£$) I dont go as far as doing it under running water (thats what they advise though) but i always keep it really wet or it will pick up and scratch. I bought some stuff from halfords but found it either too coarse doing more damage that good, or it reacted with the clearcoat and it went hazy (probably started disolving it.) tamiya polishing creams are excellent as it their model wax. i also use zero paints polishing creams and gunze wax, all again excellent. leveling and polishing are really time consuming and easy to balls up so make sure it really matters to you before you go that far. a good wet coat may be all you need.

damn that looks nice

nice one sloegin, always nice to know the real purpose for them. now i know for sure the should be there and not fillid in i can get on with the model. nice diagram too, any more like that? brilliant help guys and gals

Well bugger me, the holes really ARE supposed to be there they look rubbish but i suppose they will have to stay Maybe they are just drain holes, looks a bit leaky along around them. Execllent find Andy, many thanks, you are a Gent.

airfix lightning f6/f2a new boxing. i cant just leave them what would all the rivet counters say!! Seriously tho', i would like to fill them if they are not supposed to be there to tidy it up, looks a bit weird. But if they are there for a reason I'll live with it.

Could someone please tell me why these five holes along the bottom of the fuselage are here. Should they be filled in or left open? DSC01890 by omgpainful, on Flickr Thanks JH

took a bit of fiddling, thinning the walls of the kit and resin pit, and a lot of sanding on the bottom of the resin tub so it sits correct on the intake tube but not bad really. now the wheel weels are a different matter, they plainly just do not fit at all. DSC01752 by omgpainful, on Flickr DSC01749 by omgpainful, on Flickr these were taken before the fuse was glued up and show the best fit i could get. IMG_0912 by omgpainful, on Flickr IMG_0910 by omgpainful, on Flickr these two i just took show where i had to fill (sorry bad quality pics)

that looks very close. the aires one is better but , yes, the pe belts were fiddly but not impossible.

the finish is not straight out of the airbrush though. to get flat reflections the clearcoat was leveled with micromesh and polished and waxed which is VERY time consuming. this reduces the toylike plastiky hi shine to a more realistic finish. so not quite a toffee apple

omg!! lmfao wish i could have seen that.

http://www.flickr.co...N04/7460072316/ Toffee apple zero 2k coat http://www.flickr.com/photos/77084890@N04/8002737413/

What? no wings. omg! wtf IS it? Seriously though I agree, nice to se a quality car kit. I'll be watching.

blimey thats a big 'un. love the tissue inside looks perfect.