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Everything posted by theplasticsurgeon

  1. I tried Duraglit to shift decals. Without Klear - they were straight off. With Klear NOTHING shifted them - and I noticed another interesting effect. The colour bleached out of the decal, giving a "20 years in the desert boneyard" look.
  2. And the Tim way: Wet the decal in warm water as normal At the last second apply KLEAR where the decal is going - I used an old Humbrol LiquidCement bottle with brush in the lid, until the cap broke. Slide decal off the carrier film, and position it on the small puddle of Klear with tweezers. PRESS onto decal with an old tee-shirt. This excludes any air, replacing it with Klear - eliminating any possibility of silvering. The thinner the layer of Klear - the quicker it sets. This also prevents the decal from being slid around - so get the position right. Plut next decal into the water. Another coat of Klear over first decal - to level the surface. Dab down with tee-shirt again. Apply Klear puddle for next decal. Be VERY careful not to hold model near to previous decal - it might still come off onto your fingers! Continue with application of next decal - Until they've all been applied - then leave the model to set for at least 24 hours. Apply finish coat to model by airbrush or aerosol. Many completed models with this method
  3. Ah where were we? Yes I've just returned from a VERY enjoyable week in Tenerife - did anybody miss me? Following a spectacular failure to get Revell Orange paint through my airbrush, I tried Humbrol today - with infinitely more success (by my terms). The orange patches roughly equate to the dayglo stripes on WS774, when they're THOROUGHLY hard, I'll mask the stripes and airbrush the hulls silver. The real WS774 was aligned with her nose facing East at Quedgely. This resulted in the sun beating down on the starboard side all day, and NEVER getting round to the port side. The effect was faded dayglo striped on the port side. This is how I plan to park the models until I airbrush them silver.
  4. Really glad to have been of assistance Ted. Other Britmodellers have helped me with this project - so I'm really pleased that it has inspired another modeller. I hope to be able to meet you at SMW and see some of these Meteors. Cheers, Tim
  5. Now can anyone tell them apart? Finishes unified with brush painted Silver. This follows a bit of a disaster with airbrushed Revell Orange paint this morning. The silver is more of an undercoat in preparation for another attempt, and is not intended as a final finish.
  6. Seams given a quick brush with Silver. A lot better - and as good as these are going to get. Next out with the airbrush!
  7. Patrick, I got one of these from a cheepie bookshop a few years ago. used very successfully ever since. Slide the aerator spring off to reveal the wire inside - and it fits a tin of Humbrol perfectly! No boltcutters necessary. at 99p you might have undercut mine by 1p!
  8. Ah - thankyou. Here's a closer look And here it is again - trying to keep up with the triple-header, after another hour's sanding. I'll check those seams again tomorrow.
  9. After an evening of wet'n'drying we have this formation: And after a quick coat of silver paint on the seams. A bit more work is required - as can be seen on the cockpit surround of the front 2 planes. BUT not tonight!
  10. Filler filler everywhere! Resuts of an evening with putty and liquid paper - ain't looking forward to the next bit.
  11. I re-read the S3M article last night, and am now convinced that the 30mm thing is a typo for 3mm. If the kit were measured as 221mm and scaled at 224mm, then the difference is 3mm. Close enough to not bother me!
  12. Hoping to clear any confusion - I've ventured into my loft with a ruler, and measured all the Javelin models. Airfix has a span of about 222mm and root chord of 110mm and Novo about 220mm, and root chord of 105mm - so very little difference. http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/ja.../survivors.html quotes a span of 52'10" for all versions. ARC scale converter takes 222mm to 52'5.3" - so maybe the 30mm error is before reduction. It was a quick, crude measurement with a school ruler - so not scientific. Playing with ARC Scale Converter 224mm gives the magic 52'10" measurement, so none of the kits are visually inaccurate.
  13. Not much - even I will admit these are being rushed. Seat belt from thin slices of Tamiya masking is the only addition to what's in the kit. PLUS everything is painted black in there.
  14. Another evenings modelling - and 3 airframes are assembled. Those photos are of my visit to the real WS774. One with me driving, another with my son steering - whilst I pedal in the back! The Battle of the Gaps is about to commence!
  15. Unfortunately, the 7' error is the conclusion that I drew from the article - OR it could have been eroneous plans! Next time I venture into my loft, I'll measure the dimensions of my models (and I've got a Nova FAW9R), and compare them with http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/ja.../survivors.html
  16. As others have said - a straightforward build of an early 80s Airfix quality kit. Here's mine from about 2003: Clear linkage back to the Heller T3 - though next model was Airfix boxing: There's an article about Javelins in SeventySecondScale Modeller - June 1998. It states that the Fuselage is good, but the wings are too short (span?) by about 30mm. Also says that 46Sqdn marking has wrong colour surround - but I applied them to the T3 anyway! Personally I never noticed the wings having a problem - as I've only ever seen a Javelin from this angle: Gate Guard at Staverton - about 3 miles from my home.
  17. Product of another happy evening's modelling: Fuselages mostly assembled. Those medium length noses are push fitted so far - but full of lead. The 3 kits are all from different batches - so Matchbox 3 colour kit gives me 9 different shades of raw plastic to work with. Each model will be a mongrel of all 9 shades!
  18. Construction commences! 3 cockpits assembled. All those bits to the left are scrap - anybody able to use them?
  19. Thanks Dave, I knew that already. Both my previous NF-14 builds actually use the nose parts for the NF-12, and these will be no different.
  20. The story about 3 copies of WS774 is at http://www.britmodeler.com/forums/index.ph...61&start=61. Here are the boxes and their contents, after I have painted all the cockpit bits black. If anybody has spare decal number 7s for this kit, then please PM me - I'm going to need them.
  21. Registering with 3 Matchbox Meteors. 1/ Started kits may be submitted, but the major components must not have been joined together or completed, i.e. fuselage halves or wings. Sealed boxs - until I get into them! 2/ Any British Squadron or unit of this period may be modeled even if they were operating foreign aircraft types at this time. No 2 AirNavigationSquadron RAF 3/ British aircraft in foreign service during this period may be modelled. For example, Harriers with the USMC or Lightnings in use with the RSAF. N/A 4/ It must have flown, so experimental aircraft are eligible as long as they left the ground under their own power on at least one occasion, landing successfully back on their own undercarriage. Retire from service 1966 - and had a Cat3 accident. 5/ Your kit can be out of the box or a full resin upgrade - the choice is yours. Plastic is straight from the box - tape seat belt will be only addition. Decals and paint scheme for WS774 - all 3 of them! 6/ The Admins decisions are final. No ifs, buts or maybes. Already agreed with Cop You may ask why I'm building 3 Meteors - and of the same plane. The intention is to build 3 copies of WS774 depicted at: http://www.maltaaviationmuseum.com/meteornf14.asp I work with Graham, son of John Holder - one of the 4 men who restored this aircraft. When Graham realised I am keen on 'planes AND can build models, he arranged for me to build a model of WS774 for his father - and for me to visit the plane at Quedgeley . This is the 2006 model of WS774 - and John is absolutely delighted with it! Now he has asked if I can build 3 more copies for his colleagues. Groupbuild deadline is a way of ensuring they get finished in a reasonable timescale.
  22. Goes together very well - a bit of cleanup of struts and ejector marks is about all the prep that's required. More construction photos at http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....howtopic=119450 I pre-painted all the parts, and assembled them with superglue - for a more instant fix. This kit has slots and holes for the rigging, so I cleared them with drill and saw, then fixed the rigging in place with superglue. My kit says 1/48 - but has been measured and calculated as 1/39. I had thought that the 1/39 kit was different - AND it was more expensive on Ebay, when I bought this one (2003/04), however now I'm convinced they're the same mould. I've just seen a Revell kit at Gloucester Model Show for £10. The kit has all the bits to replicate the scene in your photo, so YES I will be building a small base for this model.
  23. Monogram Wright Flyer model nearing completion. I rigged this with nylon last night - now a few details left to complete, like painting the figures.
  24. Trenches and gaps on this kit can be dealt with by Humbrol filler and liquid paper - I've just sent Grant a PM with photos of 2 Meteors I built in 2005/06, and one of them is silver.
  25. Another quick aerosol coat of Humbrol Matt Varnish in the afternoon sun, has removed the white bits. Undercarriage now fitted. Just a few aerials in slow time to completion.
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