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bushande

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Everything posted by bushande

  1. All that checking references makes you kind of loose sight from time to time. Spot the plane! Hihihihi
  2. Alright, fits just about right I think ..... And most importantly ... it sits at the right spot now!!!
  3. Finally, I put some chrome foil onto a few unused old photoetch mirrors and formed the "Oh poo-poo"-handles on the side of the canopy frame out of thin wire, painted and finally glued the whole thing into the canopy.
  4. As if the whole thing wasn't difficult enough, in addition, the pipes are also "dented". Aaaw maaaaaan, does that have to be ?! Well, we don't want this project to be boring after all hihihi. A couple of shaped and bent plastic rots and some wire should do the trick, I hope:
  5. We are not yet there but it is almost done. There are the tubes of the air conditioning system that run along the canopy frame, there are a few hooks to fix the pulpit and surprise even more cables! On the port side is a small blue button under the glass with a safety notice. I will add it for fun while I'm at it anyways. And I must not forget to add the sfaety pin for the canopy lock and the hinge point just aft!
  6. So .... last step, before we are done with the canopy and cockpit. The interior of the canopy is very complex, with many struts, lines, hooks and cables. I will not achieve 100 percent accuracy, but I think that I can at least somewhat upgrade what is in the kit, so that a realistic impression is created. First a look at the original again. What the interested modeller is likely to notice right away is the fact that the original has three struts, but Revell shows four. In addition, the struts also have recesses. Saves weight on the original, but gives me extra work on the model hihihi. So there is a lot to do. After two days the result looks like this. NOTE: This is not yet finished and a few parts are missing !!!:
  7. After I finished painting the cockpit, the windshield was finally glued. The whole thing now looks like this:
  8. Before I continue painting the cockpit, I want to attent once more to the HUD. The small transparent part included in the kit is very nice, but the connectors / fastenings with the projector unit are missing. This has to be carefully mimicked with thin wire. The original is actually clear, but reflects the incoming sun intensely green. For me it is such a striking feature that I would like to simulate that effect if possible. To do this, I pulled some thin holofoil onto the transparent part and the effect is not a 100 percent, but good enough for me to be an eye-catcher in the sun:
  9. The entire area behind the pilot has many boxes, cables and wires. Revell basically presented this area very nicely, but it really lacks the necessary detail. Here the modeller is really "free to roam". As noted earlier, I cut away the little box, which is too much, and tried to add lots of wires, cables and wires hopefully according properly to the original. I confess it's not that easy in 1/48:
  10. And as you can see, once the seat is in the tub, you can confidently save yourself adding the details to the rear wall of cockpit tub. I could have really let it go, but it wasn't a big deal either and better it's there and I don't need it than the other way around:
  11. With some paint added, the whole thing looks like this. Since a pilot will later be seated, further detailing of the seat is simply not worthwhile:
  12. Before we continue with the interior of the canopy, I want to finish the cockpit itself, i.e. finish the seat and insert all the cables and details. The seat that Revell offers is actually really nice. The shape fits and also the details that are available are coherent. Nevertheless you can always add a little moe something:
  13. The most annoying thing was really shaping the rather complex canopy frame. I used tracing paper to copy the notches that had previously been cut into the fuselage and transferred them to a piece of thin sanded plastic. After that, I traced the shape of the braces on the canopy and added them to the previously omitted space on the plastic. The whole thing then resulted in the shape of the entire braces, which make up the canopy frame on the original, hopefully in such a way that the canopy remains removable in the end, but still fits into the fuselage without gaps and uneven areas. Looks like nothing, but was not an easy job and cost me almost a week of cutting, gluing and sanding. You also have to be careful not to damage the transparent parts. The end result of the work looks like this and oh joy, it even fits the fuselage quite well:
  14. If you look at the collar of the windshield, it becomes clear how nice a few etched parts would be here: It doesn't matter; no use in whining. I tried to add at least a little structure by transferring the shape of the windshield or the canopy for that matter to some tape, cutting out individual small puzzles and finally transferring them to the waistband of the windshield. A lot of effort, for something that you will almost never see again, but at least I know that it is there:
  15. If you take a closer look at the above pictures of the original, you will notice the heating elements along the windshield frame and under the glass of the windshield. To mimic this, I cut a few remnants from unused etched parts and put them back together in a way so that it should look just roughly the part and also cut a few white decal stripes:
  16. It may look a bit overdone, but that is only due to the artificial light late in the evening. It's not that wild at all. Here is a comparison to an unprocessed part. (Still, I think that the effect makes a difference. What I also like are the very light rainbow traces, depending on how the light falls; just like the original. A positive side effect of the added Future):
  17. If the light is right, you can see that the canopy and windshield are tinted differently: I don't like the taint clear parts because there is always such a risk of it going wrong, but what choice do I have ?! I heavily thinned some clear blue paint with Future. For the canopy, I mixed clear orange with some weathering particles until the tone seemed fitting to me and then diluted it equally with Future:
  18. For the new frame, I then carefully glued a piece of old plastic to the sanded back of the clear part, roughly drilled away the excess and then very carefully sanded it into shape (the end result will come right away after the next posts):
  19. As noted before, I need to lengthen the canopy a bit and shorten the windshield in turn. Shortening the windshield is easy. This piece is too pointed anyway and so you even do yourself a favor by sanding it shorter and a tad more rounded. In order to extend the canopy, the embossed frame must first be carefully sanded out of the transparent part. Warning, the plastic is very thin and tends to break very quickly! If you are very careful, a few minutes with sanding paper of 2000 to 6000 grit and a little should do and voilá, the result is even tolerable:
  20. After some color is on, it looks a bit more pleasing, I think. The entire optics and the connections for the heating elements make a clear difference and stand out for the eye:
  21. Well ... of course such a "tabula rasa" also has it's advantages. You can just go to the max scratching. After I had already glued and filled the display board, I first sanded the cover into a roughly correct shape. What can also be noticed: The small antenna in front of the windshield requires an indentation in the nose, which is also not taken into account by Revell. If the nose is stuck and you don't want to display a radar dish, the fIx is quite simple; simply fill and scribe in again. Otherwise, it doesn't really take much to detail the covers. Just some sense of proportion, a comparing eye, Tamiya tape, some plastic leftovers and time:
  22. Today we tackle the rest of the cockpit, meaning that the CPU covers and the windshield should be finished and the cockpit and canopy should also be completed. Fingers crossed! Revell unfortunately failed completely when designing the CPU cover, not only that the details are completely missing (there is a lot of it on the original!) Unfortunately, the shape is also useless. Ergo, lot's of DIY-potential for the aspiring modeller. Let's first look at the original again:
  23. Last step for today. I have now hopefully scribed the large avionics panels and the surrounding panellines correctly and properly again. The whole thing will later be smoothed and leveled out again with Future, but otherwise I think / hope that the panels now fit that way. The next time we will continue with the detailing of the CPU cover of the cockpit instruments and the detailing of the cockpit including scratching the frame.
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