Black Knight

I forgot to add in one special build I'll be doing, soon I hope, I'll be 'Bosozoku-izing' a 1/43 Airfix/Heller Subaru Impreza ala

one million Orson Welles'

smurfbits, the new currency

Thanks Troy, that @ signal is like necromancy; calling up the dead to help I can't nominate just one book. There are far too many out there and each has its merits I have about a dozen books just on model figure building and painting plus I use my history reference books for details The Airfix Guide book is a good primer. Plus their books on the Afrika Korps, the French Foreign Legion and the English Civil Wars. Each has details about modelling figures for the book subject. I once picked up a guide by Warhammer/Citadel which goes through the stages of painting one of their figures with their paints. They do colours for different stages, from base coat through to the top high-lights coat and dry-brushing. I dunno if that guide is still available afair a paint system called 'Army Painter' has a similar guide for WW2 type subjects and the guide is/was downloadable as a PDF, That's how I got my copy. The old Airfix magazine, especially from about 1969 right through the 1970s, did a at least 1, some times 2 or even 3 figure builds every month I buy, or bought, the old Airfix magazine off sellers through ebay. They cost just a few ££ each and if you have the main contents list for every magazine, as I have, you can pick and choose which magazine/figure build you want. But most of those builds are for experienced modellers, not beginners Remember; 1. these are only plastic or white-metal, if you mess up, you can pull them apart and start over 2. if you mess up the painting you can remove the paint and start again 3. you can mix parts between types of materials, eg you can cut an arm off a polythene figure and attach it to a white-metal figure 4. you quickly learn what looks right; you have a prototype in yourself one thing I want to pick up on; putting some flesh colour paint into some white for the eyeballs is better and some very little dark red or brown into flesh paint for lips and tongue is better than bright red lipstick another note; Historex figures are nominally 1/30 and even some legs work out at 1/24 so whilst much of their equipment can be used with 1/32 - 54mm not everything can be In the photo below the chap's arms are Historex. They measured up at exactly the right length for a 1/24 figure No. 1 son created the girl sitting on the boot of this car from about 5 different pieces from different figure kits and fillers. He had never built a figure until this one. The chap leaning on the front wing with his iPad was built from 3 or 4 body parts from different kits and altered to the pose. Both are 1/24

How about this Volvo, 1/32 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115605922432?epid=16024427815&hash=item1aeaa66280:g:YuwAAOSw~LljdQFt&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoLVgRMT4nm0RsdR8gWDVwN0QeOEQTDSl7ZqBYFn2yixFHgKDWg9903wUy45cHUCzR5DnsdFq%2F0AMBMYmUtnwTU5oyVaRzowMBwSpdiYfURpaAu62fEvtn2nVgH2GWi3DFDjDH8YTVcZidJ6CTK5gO7BZbWhTj1%2BWqkUGdKJaMTB1Am9hylujLxvAqVbHJZA%2BPAt2ejQac2Xv3Kls6Ql7nUo%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9LUxqKtYQ

You can get trucks and trailers in 1/32 but they are very very expensive If you went to 1/48 helicopters you could use 1/50 diecast trucks and Heller did/does a Gazelle in 1/50 https://www.kingkit.co.uk/product/heller-aircraft-1-50-484-sa-341-gazelle edit to add; a 1/50 flatbed trailer https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304692065819?hash=item46f10ff61b:g:eFAAAOSwRjJjaLiH&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoNuzNU4xc7S%2BA5b7IE%2FYUy1%2B04Nqg25g75ZGIrOpfUnjb%2BjmYDM%2Byzh6hEpanzDDFoOacJrpGMK5iv2yU6zuKVSOt1AXChty4ZHIgsN1idg%2B8SISy0f3VAOhPE9ZurrYUTux3lWX2onZnNogRPtIlqMOVHd52zu3hQ73s7eoYXsKwX6w4xUlVp9JG%2Bsq0bHXU3pqCb2SWrMBH2NbkohZ7WQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6rG6qCtYQ

I can only repeat what others have said; I keep a length of wire down the tube and occasionally blast it with my pipe lighter, which is like a mini-blow lamp. Just be careful doing this as any glue it the tube will flare out in a flame and burning particles my shoot out as well. Not nice if it lands on your hand

This is one of a series of photos on Google about moving this Wessex to a museum

I have about a dozen stalled car/vehicle builds on my MU shelf I really need to finish - a 1/43 Jaguar XJ-S conversion a Matchbox 1/32 MGTC which I started in the Matchbox GB an Airfix Monty's Humber an Airfix Aston-Martin DB5 my (BMW) Dixie and two Austin Chummys then start on my 1/43 white-metal Bedford HA van I have a 1/43 white-metal Lambretta scooter which needs improving then building I'd like to get on with several other kits on that shelf Tomorrow is another day, another year

If not, would you like one of mine from a Mk.I/V kit to work on?

I've not used them in an airbrush, just used with an ordinary brush, but Vallejo Model Air has a good reputation. Use straight from the bottle Only watch out for the names Vallejo gives to the colours; sometimes they don't match what they are supposed to be

A triangle of chains makes the following trailer harder to control and can throw the forward trailer off its tracking. The triangle allows the following trailer to deviate off the chosen course and can pull the rear of the forward one around The parallel chains keeps the following trailer(s) in line with the main trailer, making them follow exactly behind With a solid A frame the towed trailer or vehicle is easier to control info based on 'rescuing' fwd and vintage cars out of mud at events

1. Belfast Telegraph/ Belfast Newsletter and numerous local Northern Ireland newspapers might have photos of helicopters being transported. I know the Tyrone Courier has some because I took the photos and supplied them. As did other smudgers. As a local photographer, near Dungannon, and with security clearance, I got called out to photograph incidents by the local papers and informed people, including the RUC. There were a lot of helicopter rescues in N.I. Far more than have been let known 2. It was mostly Gazelles that were transported by load-lower. Quite often a local crane company and a civilian well-bed low loader was used. Sometime the civilian tractor unit was used, sometimes the Army sent one on theirs. On just a few occasions Gazelles, Wessex, once a Puma, were rescued by Chinook. And a Chinook always airlifted another Chinook. Early in the 'troubles' when the Sioux and Scout were used they could be and were taken away on B.A. Bedford lorries, with the sides down usually but tarps over the helicopters. The Sioux were mostly brought down by smashed canopies, from bird-strikes. I know of at least three that the Army abandoned to land-owner/farmers type people. I think one chap still has his in his private museum

Small world, innit?

I've seen one of those, or one similar to it, built up. Its really crazy looking, and big

I am NOT signing up. If I were to take part I'd go for something like this; https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MAS3517?result-token=dUUxS But I'd replace that ruskie with a G.I. or British soldier

I suppose the irregular shape made the patch more noticeable My grandfather told stories about men he knew who got mustard gas poisoning from the residue it left on helmets and equipment in WW1. So you don't want your groundcrew getting poisoned

1. there are plenty of films on youtube showing the bombing up. afair, the cookie first then small bombs and incendiaries last 2. again, afair, the nose cone was used on the cookies in the early days but was found to be not needed so thereafter it was just left off. The nose cone was made of sheet metal and just held to the main bomb by a few screws 3. usually the rear of the H2S blister was left clear as that was where the aircraft's coloured lights were and they were needed for signalling

F4s often flew escort for F-105s over Viet Nam

If you'd written - a B.17 but not a Flying Fortress, we might have been guessing Swedish SAAB B.17

A YB-40?

In the trade they are called 'clicker dies' They look like this; They are used in either a manual or hydraulic press. I use a 1.25T manual press with my dies to cut leather. I have lots of different shapes of clicker dies To make a mirrored cut patch, just invert the material being cut Funnily, they are called 'clicker dies' as when the blade makes the full cut through the material (leather, fabric, gasket et cetera) there is a loud 'click' sound

A piece of very dark grey wet & dry grit paper For 1/20, maybe in the 400 grade range

Certainly early in the war the guns & limbers and all woodwork was painted grey

A scriber removes a sliver of material, thus either boot lid or the hole will be undersize at the end whilst scoring with a thin blade will not remove any material Teeth flossing thread is good for cutting. It will actually cut through mild steel bar