Black Knight
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Posts posted by Black Knight
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I think the reason we do not see this reproduced on models is a point of scale. It is pronounced on a real one, but its only a fraction of an inch. Even if it was 1 inch raised that equates to 0.014 of an inch [0.35 millimeter], When we look at something we can perceive very minor differences, which we think are large. The thicker tank cover does not stand pround by very much, I think its actually in the reagion of 6mm or a quarter of an inch - so the difference in 1/72 is about 0.0035 inch [0.09mm]
Most modellers dont know about this 'armour' and it being raised so they would sand away what they would think as unevenness.
If you want you could represent it, in 1/72 scale, by glueing a piece of 5thou [or less] plasticard over the tank area.
and in 1/48th scale the difference is 0.052 inch, [0.13mm].
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I would say 'yes, there is'
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I'm not 100% sure if my experience is the same.
Not only with Modeldecal, but a couple of others. It was old adhesive.
I had to turn the decal over on my glass plate which I use and had to wash, almost scrub, the remains of the old adhesive off. Once it was totally clean I used micoset and sol with the decal and everything was ok. Previously, when using m.set or sol it seemed to react with the adhesive, reactivating it a bit and leaving a bit of a stain much like you mention. I was able to wash the stain away with a bit of soapy water.
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I use Humbrol acrylic gloss varnish first. A couple of coats, then a wipe down with a very fine w&d [2000 grade], then a coat or two of Klear. Decals on. Then another coat or two of clear, a rub down, very gently, then a final finish varnish. All done by hairy-stick brush.
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I cant say for LondonDerry in '70 but I do know of at least 3 centurions deployed in a certain area of Belfast in that year.
I now wish I hadn't gone and looked at the links given above.
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Its not a 'wrinkle' finish. Imagine a rough grit blasted surface, with a sprayed very dark grey paint. It has a fine surface roughness look to it, with some texture. I think its actually an anodised finish on the casting. Its purposely finished this way as a texture/look to compliment the high gloss of the other painted and polished parts.
If I were painting this I would mix semigloss black with gummetal. As I use Humbrol paints that would be no. 85 & 53. In a mix of 3 black to 1 gunmetal.
Just some thoughts.
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Well, I'll throw my lot in with youse.
My first bike was a Suzuki B120P - commonly refered to as a Blooper.
Most of the rest are boing. Ok then, they were all boring - but fit for purpose. 'Q' bikes - used for my work.
One of the best I liked was a good tuned and customized Suzuki GT380.
Now 'in between' bikes.
Best roads? All in Norn I'rn. Only three fixed speed cameras and four mobile ones, makes lots of the roads very 'interesting'.
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Hi David
Woohoo, someone else like me
I have a very very well sorted paint store, by number, and its basically the only way that i know im not painting something bright Pink instead of red or some such.
Unfortunately, my condition has deteriorated to the point where I can barely distinguish colours,but I have corrective lenses that try reeeaaaallllly hard to stop me wearing bright pink trousers and an orange tshirt.
Steve
And me. 95% cb in yellow/gree/red
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There were both civie and Humber ambulances. The lwb landies had [some anyway] the tilt fitted right over the rear. The swb were the 'specials' - extra short w.b.
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There were also some swb and lwb soft top Landrovers
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Leyland and Bedford bus seats in the 1920s to 1970s was of leather-cloth. A vinyl backed with fine hessian. I've been involved, in the past, with restorations of many such vehicles. Is a good cheap alternative to leather but not just as robust.
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Actually, one of the handiest to explain the codes is the old Airfix book, Luftwaffe Camouflage of World War 2 [Airfix Modelling Magazine Guides, no.10]
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As soon as the leather comes out of the tannery it starts to darken. I had a piece darken from light tan to mahogany in about 3 months, most of the time it was in a box. When near iron the leather will darken even quicker. One can actually see the difference on a piece in one day in bright sunshine. Depending on the tannins the leather will stabilise anywhere from a mahogany brown to actually black.
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I use the LINKA moulds. Very easy to use and build with the parts. They suit only 1/72 or 1/76. 28mm at a push.
But dont use 'plaster of Paris' - its far too soft. You'll end up with mostly broken castings. I use a casting powder called 'Keramin', it has ceramic powder in it. I get about 99% perfect castings, the other 1% is my fault. This Keramin is actually cheaper that P.o.P. I get it from a company called W. Hobby in London, by mail order, but they have associated outlets around Britain.
When glueing up the parts I use superglue gel. It sticks instantly and helps fill minor gaps. It will also stick broken castings, which if done carefully don't show the break.
If there is more you need to know I'd be happy to help with info, you can PM me any time.
A cottage house made of Keramin, [ignoring the cost of moulds] costs about £1.00 [100 pieces at 1p each]
F
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Natually veg tanned leather is a light brown colour. It darkens to near black with exposure to light and atmosphere. It ages. So some items may be light brown, but others near windows may be much darker.
Chrome tanned leather was not in common use until the 1950s. It is much more stable and doesnt darken but keeps the shade/colour it start off at.
Possibly all un-dyed eather in WW2 [RAF] was light brown and aged to near black.
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I concur with caustic soda. Works for me every time.
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Hi G. I really know nowt about Spitfires. I'm doing mine as one from 502 [ulster] Squadron and was looking up pictures of theirs to see the placement of the squadron crest on the engine covers. I noticed that none of theirs or other squadrons' Spitfires had that bump, but I did see it on late mark Seafires, so I checked with a friend. Once I knew it wasnt supposed to be there I had to remove it. Otherwise, mine too would have had those bumps.
Main painting starts today on mine. I too like to displace my rudder, and mine ended up in the same direction as yours. I wanted it the other way but very oddly every time I put it over it kept going straight, but stayed this way.
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On a rescue I was involved in, we were about 200 feet above the rescue helicopter. It didn't have a yellow blade on top, but boys-a-dear it would have helped. We had to keep one person on watch to make sure our rescue party didnt swing out near the helicopter. It was hard to see the rotation disc in the weather.
Perdu: all the RAF training was running through my head. Plus it was within 'bandit' territory. First priority; get to scene and assess the situation. To find a foot-patrol of squaddies and a Wessex taking off. Back to my place for tea and bickies. How many army squaddies can you fit in/on a Ford Sierra?!
apologies - I digress and drifted
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Great stuff with those photos.
I've noticed that almost everyone who builds this hasn't removed two unusual bumps it shouldn't have.
If you look, on the fuselage, on the panel behind the engine covers, just about in line with the wing's black line, there is a small, almost triangular bump. One on each side. This is only on a later Seafire,[46 or 47, something like that] not on the Spitfire. It has something to do with a RATO attachment I think/believe.
I wonder why Airfix put it on? Although it does mean they can give us the Seafire in 1/72 later.
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Thanks Steve.
I'll get it all sorted, maybe, tomorrow.
F.
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Very Nice
I'm building mine this weekend. I'll be doing it in the camo finish though. Might have to buy a second kit to do one in silver.
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For me it has to be Austin 7;
Chummy
Ulster
Speedy
Nippy
Opal
Top Hat
Grasshopper
Tourer
Fabric Body Saloon
Swallow Tourer
Military
Gordon England Cup
Brooklands Racing Special
'Mrs Jo Jo'
Lotus 7 [original]
Van
and maybe the
Dixie Sports
American Bantam
Rosengart
Just a few versions.
I'd agree with an MGTF, but the 1955 version, not the recent one.
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Hi, I'd like to join in, but need help and advice.
The kit is the Revell 1/12 Vincent Black Shadow which has been in my stash about 14 years. And which I really should get building.
Thats not the problem.
How do I go about setting up a 'thread' for recording the build?
Thanks,
Fred
Question regarding armor plating over Spitfire forward fuel tanks
in Aircraft WWII
Posted · Edited by Black Knight
sorry, repeat posting. computer playing silly buggers.