Black Knight

I go by volume on both the mould making material and the casting material. It works for me. I cant add anything to the good advice above. Except maybe; always keep safe your first good cast. One never knows when one has to make a new mould, and your good cast can be your new pattern. The original being stored away too.

Durn it Steve! Ya beat me tooit. I too have a Norton Manx. and I up your anti a 'Triumph Tiger'.......

A [late] friend of mine flew DW-D in 1940 {Harry Clarke] According to him during the summer the airframe numbers were overpainted.

First part; yes it will. Second; if the Future/Kleer was well cured, a mild dose of white spirit should remove the enamel varnish without damaging the 'future' too much. Test it on somewhere like the underside of a tailplane. Not too much thinners, rubbed carefully and gently, maybe use cotton buds, or cotton-wool balls rather than a cloth.

I'd like to join in too please. Primarily 1/72 aeroplanes; I have a few which fit the name; F4 Wildcat, F6 Hellcat and maybe a couple more. I dont really do tanks but I have a 1/35th M18 Hellcat in my stash which I've really been meaning to build since '05. Never having taken part in a BM GB do I 'just' start a 'build'** thread in the GB thread oce it starts? Any other instructions to keep me in-line are welcome. ** Is it one thread per kit, or one thread per builder? Edit; PS: Forgot to ask; Does it have to be military? Can I build a car or motorcycle?

On photos of Marseilles 109s which I have seen the line is solid, no feathering.

What, a white outline like wot u see in the 'murder mysteries'? Perhaps just a sizing line to see where and how everything will go when its off-loaded.[?]

I only know of one in a regimental museum and the interior is the same shade of green as the exterior.

In that photo one can see the chalk lines he's painting to.

In a book I have about P51 units in Korea there is a photo of P51 drop tanks being filled with napalm.

Plese dont trust that web discussion; there are numerous factual errors within it.

Very nice indeed. The finish looks just proper on it.

Cant help with an answer about replacement decals, but about the yellowing; put in the sunshine for a while [might take days or even a week or two] or under UV light,[ may take several hours] - that usually reduces the yellowing, sometimes getting rid of it completely. Give the decals a coat of Liquid Decal Film, incase they might be cracked and break up when soaked.

Lovely Bentley. I used Humbrol Clearfix to glaze the windscreen on mine. Prieser do 'drivers' in 1/87 scale, some of which fit these cars nicely.

The only reference I have for B17 gives; Upperwing = 84 inch Type 'B' Fuselage = 36 inch Type 'C1'

Dont write-off rattle cans yet though. A goodly range of colours [& shades of colours] can be obtained from your local car accessory shop or Halfords. I have three airbushes. One is the Humbrol basic, excellent for larger areas, the other two are chinese clones of Badger; one is double action and t'other is single action; both cost me under £25 [each]. For large plain coloured areas I'd recommend the Humbrol [or Badger] basic with its glass jar, but as its a suction feed you need a good compressor. The spray of these will go down to about the size of a 10p. With a gravity feed you'd need at least a 7ml cup to suit your needs. My single-action has a 2ml cup and that doesnt go far on plain areas. Its max cover is about a 50p, then down to pencil lines. The double-action brush is similar but has a 14ml cup. I rarely use it now as I cant get the hang of double-action, I prefer the single.

I had a problem that sound similar to yours. The problem ended up to be a tiny, I mean tiny, 10 on a pin head small, flake of dried paint. It took me days, literally, trying to spray, cleaning out etcetera, until this flake decided to come out. Perhaps there is a tiny blockage that wont be moved by low psi, but does with the higher? just a thought,

Also; have a look here - http://modelingmadness.com/review/w1/gb/foster0400.htm and: the kit has an odd feature [i'll probably get this the wrong way around] it has 16 bomb cells but only 15 holes for the bombs to fall through.

One can buy paint for real tyres in car accessory shops. The usual colour is standard black, but white, blue, yellow, red and green are available. A 250ml tin is not frightenly expensive.

I would advise misting on your first two coats then a third a bit heavier. I've found the solvent carrier in most Humbrol sprays can be, as they say, 'hot' and it can cause severe orange peel if blasted on in one coat. The misting on helps to prevent this.

That is nice. It would probably have been better than the B52 [maybe?]

May I add a couple? 1) A dogfight but no shoot-down. Early 1940 a Cervia Autogyro on weather patrol over France, near border with Germany was set upon by three Messerschmitt 109. They seemed to expend all their ammo, and probably fuel too, before leaving the Cervia alone. The umarmed and unharmed Cervia returned to base with the vital weather info. 2) 1948 - RAF Spitfires engaged and shot down Egyptian Spitfires, over Palestine, on two occasions.

The cannon barrels look shorter than normal. Have they been cut down?

Get yourself down to your nearest B&Q or HomeBase store. Go to the saw cutting area. There you'll find a 'bin' with off cuts of wood. You may find some off-cuts of MDF. Grab a load, get a docket from one of the workers. Either store only charges about £1 or £2 for a load of these off cuts. Last week I got nearly half-a-trolley worth for 20p. ** Get your treasure home and cut it up yourself. MDF gives a nice finish. You can spray it, brush paint it, flock/grass it, or what ever takes your fancy. HTH Fred ** I got bits ranging from 8" x 2'6" down to 4" x 8" in various thickness' PS: Some builders merchants also have off-cuts which they'll sell you cheaply.

Basically the only difference between the Titanic and Brittanic was; the Brittanic was about 1ft shorter and had twice the number of lifeboats, displaced differently. So any Titanic, with extra lifeboats can be used.