Black Knight
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Posts posted by Black Knight
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Hi Rich.
Vincent Black Shadow
please, ta,
F
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I'm jumping in here with little knowlege, but you who know better will put the correct info into place.
What about the Corsair the Germans captured when it crashed in Norway? I believe it was FAA. The Germans had a problem transporting it because the pilot refused to tell them how the wings folded.
Was it in TSS? I dont know where my photos of it are but it didnt look normal TSS [nor DSB], it did look overall a mid-tone, with a very light tone under the wings. AFAIU the Germans never repainted it all, just added yellow to wing tips, tail and engine cowling.
If I could only remember which books.........
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My concern with Humbrol's Dark Earth in the enamel range was that it would darken when varnished. Does the acrylic do the same?
Trevor
Yes, but it does depend on the varnish. Kleer/Future darkens it a bit, Humbrol varnishes darken it more. My own contrived mix darkens it only slightly.
Just say about how light Humbrol Earth had become; I found an old acylic 30ml pot of it and used on a Gladiator, the more recent shade was closer to 'Light Earth' compared to it. It was closer to US Mid-Tan.
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Yes, it is a new issue. They're going back to the original formula. Over the years it had got lighter, and lighter.
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I would say, go to a good automotive supply store which sells cans of touch-up paint in spray cans. Nearly all of these are now acrylic paints [but the carrier can be cellulose = lacquer]. Look up European cars in the reference book and you may well find the correct silver for Aston-Martin, or the Rover Silver. Other cars will have used this same silver under different names, maybe even a domestic one. The store may be able to mix you up one can of spray if its not available on the shelf.
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Before blutac I used a sliver of masking tape doubled back on itself, in a loop. On the end of a length of sprue, for positioning parts. For jigging, it was modelling clay, aka plasticene. For masking, copydex, or just the tape.
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I have a different photo of a shot down REAF Mk9, it shows a 'c' wing.
Going by photos of Weismann's IDF/AF 17 the 14 is too big.
F
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What about Newark [?] air museum - home of the 'Friday 13th' Halibag. Have I got the right name/right place chaps? I've not been there myself but..... maybe..... someday......
I'd fogotten Brooklands. Their restoration workshed is sometimes accessible. Last time I was there they had just finished recovering the fuselage of their Wellington and they allowed my no1 son and me to enter it and have a good look. No-one watched over us, just trusted us not to mess up anything. They were rebuilding, also, a Hurricane IIB recovered from the wastes of Russia.
The motor museum there is also worth a visit. About £12 per person entry fee, I think.
ah, georgeusa, driving in the UK is not as easy or fluid as USA. One must allow a lot more extra travelling time. In N.I. I allow 35 to 40mph travelling time, in England I allow 15 to 20 mph travelling time.
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Perfect excuse for the Stringbag in the cupboard !!
I concur. I too have one of these on my 'small stash' shelf.
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I too need these. I have cheap reading glasses, from the £1 shop, in +1, +1.5, +2, +2.5 & +3 and use them according to how close I need to go. I have a few pairs of each, cos I keep setting them down then losing them, in a model box or something.
Tonight I'm using my 'opti-visor' with its +4 lenses.
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Steve, --- something which you PREFER more than a Manx Norton! Shame on you!
And here am I hoping to learn from your experience of building these kits. So am I the only one to venutre with a M'bike then?
Ah well, say laa veee.
Fred
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This is not within your stated requirement but if you have time and inclination visit the Royal Navy Dockyard Museum at Portsmouth and visit HMS Victory and [HMS] Mary Rose in its new hall. A trip through Victory can enlighten one.
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Most of the display content of the Imperial War Museum in London has been moved to Duxford [iWM] as the IWM [London] undergoes a refurb for next year.
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Museums: Duxford [Cambridgeshire], Cosford [West Midlands], Hendon [London], Yeovil [somerset]
Model emporiums: Hannants [suffolk & London], Hornby/Airfix [Kent]
Those are my choices.
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I do know that plans are freely available thru the internet; but it does tend to be which mark you wish to build.
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oh, I should have said, I keep a small pot [old 35mm film tub] of PVA which I have allowed to thicken to almost a gel. I just keep it wet enough not to dry out. Being not so runny I apply it with a cocktail stick [aka wood toothpick] and it doesnt go everywhere, especially where I dont want it. I also use it for final attachment in most cases.
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May I add; an extra which I sometimes do is; after a 'mottle' is applied with thinned paint, I dab the almost dry paint with a finger. Not a hard impression, just a dab. If it lifts off a lot of paint it gets wiped on a cloth, if there is a little, that gets dabbed on a bare-ish patch. Works, ok for me.
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I'm interested.
But, I know its the way of this forum, next year is too long away for me, I'd be happier with this year, even if it was late autumn/winter as I plan to build most of my 'Korean War' aeroplanes before the year is out. Maybe I'll have a few left over for next year tho.
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I use white PVA glue; same as Copydex, one needs to make sure none squeezes out to make a mask along the edge.
whooooo-hoooooooo, 101 posts!
----- made it to the magic 100! -
I have rather a large collection of decals; both from kits and aftermarket ones. So far my best storage is my latest.
Decals are seperated up; a) into country, b ) type, c) subtype if needed. Stored in envelopes, which are then stored in plastic A4 box files, which fit neatly into a folding crate box.
The A4 clear box files can be bought for £1 each in Poundland, are written on the long side with a brief note of contents, [eg RAF Codes]. They fit length wise across the box and the width [narrow side] are just short of the height of the crate. As the crate is stackable it can go with similar boxes holding similar A4 files of magazine tear-outs, printed info.
When I need to serach out a decal the A4 box folder is lifted out and can be opened and laid across the tops of the others and one half becomes my sorting-tray.
I tried the A4 loose-leaf file with clear pockets but found the pages tended to not sit well, I also tried the A5 pocket files but just wasnt too happy with them.
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You're brilliant; thats a cracker of a job.
I've seen flies bigger than that. you; 1, bro-in-law ; 0
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I have one by 'The Bare Metal Foil Co.', its nearly ok, but I'd advise anyone to avoid it. It blunts very quickly and is hard to sharpen. When I'm ready to buy a new one I think I'll go for an Olfa. It has changeable blades, so a sharp one will be on hand during any serious scribing.
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.... I've always fantasised about stumbling across a wreck like that but it's fairly unlikely in this day and age.
ummm, but thats exactly how this P40 and the Dornier have been found. And how a friend of mine found the remains of a crashed Spitfire - whilst out motorcycling, he stopped, went behind a hedge for a .....and spotted wreckage which he recognised. The Spit remains where it is as its now a wargrave.
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I believe the roundel 'red' is correct as I believe that machine came from SAAF stock and they didnt use 'red' centres but orangey-red.
In photos I've seen of Pattles machine, and others in that period/area I've not seen any stencils on the machines.
----- made it to the magic 100! 
Humbrol dark earth hu29
in Aircraft WWII
Posted
As an aside;
Not too long ago I was painting up a model vintage car. I wanted it besplattered with mud. So I used Humbrol 29 Earth. Now as it happened, soon after I was in the actual field where my model car was set and getting mudied. I brought home lots of samples of mud from that field; on me boots, hat, coat, trouser, cameras..........; I compared these examples with the Humbrol 29, and those with perfect colour vision could see no dfference in the shade. So Humbrol 29 is an exact match for earth in a field in county Down, - map reference available,