Black Knight

I do know that plans are freely available thru the internet; but it does tend to be which mark you wish to build.

oh, I should have said, I keep a small pot [old 35mm film tub] of PVA which I have allowed to thicken to almost a gel. I just keep it wet enough not to dry out. Being not so runny I apply it with a cocktail stick [aka wood toothpick] and it doesnt go everywhere, especially where I dont want it. I also use it for final attachment in most cases.

May I add; an extra which I sometimes do is; after a 'mottle' is applied with thinned paint, I dab the almost dry paint with a finger. Not a hard impression, just a dab. If it lifts off a lot of paint it gets wiped on a cloth, if there is a little, that gets dabbed on a bare-ish patch. Works, ok for me.

I'm interested. But, I know its the way of this forum, next year is too long away for me, I'd be happier with this year, even if it was late autumn/winter as I plan to build most of my 'Korean War' aeroplanes before the year is out. Maybe I'll have a few left over for next year tho.

I use white PVA glue; same as Copydex, one needs to make sure none squeezes out to make a mask along the edge. whooooo-hoooooooo, 101 posts! ----- made it to the magic 100!

I have rather a large collection of decals; both from kits and aftermarket ones. So far my best storage is my latest. Decals are seperated up; a) into country, b ) type, c) subtype if needed. Stored in envelopes, which are then stored in plastic A4 box files, which fit neatly into a folding crate box. The A4 clear box files can be bought for £1 each in Poundland, are written on the long side with a brief note of contents, [eg RAF Codes]. They fit length wise across the box and the width [narrow side] are just short of the height of the crate. As the crate is stackable it can go with similar boxes holding similar A4 files of magazine tear-outs, printed info. When I need to serach out a decal the A4 box folder is lifted out and can be opened and laid across the tops of the others and one half becomes my sorting-tray. I tried the A4 loose-leaf file with clear pockets but found the pages tended to not sit well, I also tried the A5 pocket files but just wasnt too happy with them.

You're brilliant; thats a cracker of a job. I've seen flies bigger than that. you; 1, bro-in-law ; 0

I have one by 'The Bare Metal Foil Co.', its nearly ok, but I'd advise anyone to avoid it. It blunts very quickly and is hard to sharpen. When I'm ready to buy a new one I think I'll go for an Olfa. It has changeable blades, so a sharp one will be on hand during any serious scribing.

ummm, but thats exactly how this P40 and the Dornier have been found. And how a friend of mine found the remains of a crashed Spitfire - whilst out motorcycling, he stopped, went behind a hedge for a .....and spotted wreckage which he recognised. The Spit remains where it is as its now a wargrave.

I believe the roundel 'red' is correct as I believe that machine came from SAAF stock and they didnt use 'red' centres but orangey-red. In photos I've seen of Pattles machine, and others in that period/area I've not seen any stencils on the machines.

Fujimi do two sets; one set of drivers and one set of mechanics. The drivers are; one in race overalls with alternative heads, one gent and one lady in casual attire and one beach babe in swimsuit [standing], the mechanics are meant for a racing car, but blokes in overalls can be any mechanics.

Is there not a long thread already discusiing Airfix' lost or missing moulds?

When Airfix' new mould Hurricane 1 comes along later this year it can be built as the prototype with just a few small additions just an idea

I would fill the canopy with house-hold repair plaster. When that has set I'd push this solid lump into polymer clay [known by the names Sculpey III, FIMO and others]. This will give a female mould. Without the vac canopy lump in the polymer clay, bake that to set it. Dust this female mould and press polymerclay into the female mould, after baking this I'd have a solid male canopy shape which will not distort when heated. Over this male canopy mould I'd vac form [or crash mould] a new canopy. I'd use scraps of plastic vac formed wrapping which have PET on it as that quality is less likely to yellow or crack with age. Thats how I do it. Wish I could show you examples but I dont have any photos handy. HTH, F

When does this build start? I've forgotten

I agree with that too. I was only discussing aeroplanes as this thread is in the aeroplane section and thought the o/p was mainly concerned with them.

Warm soapy water put on and wiped over with cottonwool balls might do the job. Use dish washing liquid soap as its designed to cut through grease tougher than finger prints. Then a rinse with clean warm water, again put on and wiped over with cottonwool balls.

I would be interested in taking part. An each year category would be very interesting but would be limited by the aeroplanes kits for '14 & '15. Pegasus, vac form and just one or two i/p - but what will Airfix and the other manufacturers bring out for next year? I have suffcient WW1 aeroplane kits to cope. The war started in August '14 and all the aeroplanes sent to the front lines were artillery spotters, no fighters. There are very few kits of any sort of these. 1915 saw more machines of an agressive nature, the fighting scout started to come into its own and armed spotters - a few more kits of these are avilable, but its not really till '16 that one gets the real 'fighter', bomber, or armed recon aeroplanes - which have even more kits available. Would each 'build' be from August to August? or August '14 to January '15, then to January '16.....?

I'd say: you never know what might happen. Not long after Hornby took over I contacted 'spares' for a clear part for the Pe-2. I was told it wasnt available. 2 years later I got the clear parts from them when the PE-2 came back into the catalogue. I'd totally forgotten about it.

I must add my praise to Airfix as well. I've had to contact them for parts that were required for new bought kits [missing, broken, short-shot] and for parts which I have lost or damaged. For the latter, I always offer to pay [my fault - my expense] and their charges have been very reasonable, often the part has been received with a note asking me to contact them to pay for it. No faffing about, sending out weeks after payment made, but trusting me to pay after receipt. Revell can be slow, but are also efficient. The worst was Italeri - 9 months for one small part.

I'll add my praise too; bought some models occasionally via ebay; delivered within a few days [to N.I, which can take a day or two longer] and very well packed. Postage/packing costs very reasonable. Contact good too.

Steve: I'll be paying attention to your building of the Manx, so I can copy you. I'll have to get the Triumph Tiger out of storage - hope I can find it. I turned coward in the Motorcycle GB and didnt do my Vincent - maybe I'll be more couageous and actually do the Tiger. [and maybe the Manx] However; I'll be kicking off the build with a F8 Bearcat - just to get 'warmed up' sort of thing. I must get to the local museum for photo taking; it has a famous Norton Manx on display, although I seem to remember it might be the 350. Still, details is details. extra: I suppose if a Du-Cat-i is out a Suzuki KAT-ana is pushing it too?

I only use enamels and the caustic soda/toothpaste mix works very well.

Sometimes disinfectant will work. It takes a lot of work to keep applying the d/i to the surface. I use caustic soda [big warning; this stuff will take the skin off your hands so wear rubber/latex gloves when using it.] I mix a small amount into some water, then add toothpaste to make a castic soda cream. It'll stay in place and take about 10 to 20 minutes to remove the paint back to the plastic. HTH, F

Thats lookin not too bad at all. Very happy it worked out for you.