Black Knight

I had that same problem. I had to use the brush I was moving the decal with to sort of scrub away the milky white decal film. This happened on decals that were not too long coated. I've never had the problem on decals coated at least 24 hours before use.

Todays glues and paints arent anyways as near dangerous as when I were a lad. I were a 'glue-sniffer' before anyone thought of doing it for the highs. You're doing it right. Keep your room ventillated. Any fumes today are very weak. More of a smelly nuisance. For winter, you may want to sort out some sort of extractor fan. You can also get air freshners wich absorb unpleasant smells. Every so often I burn those smelly sticks one can get in the £1 shop - but thats me, still playing with matches when my mummy told me not to.......

I've come across that before. I think it was poor quality control under the previous owners. It seems that as the old stocks are used up Hornby are replacing with new fresh quality enamels. I think 49 will be well down the list.

I have sometimes used a white primer/undercoat for household paint jobs. I have a 500ml pot of B&Q's best near my work area for priming/undercoating different projects.

ummm. I use hole punches. Available is sets from 1mm upwards in 1mm steps, also available individually. I keep them sharp, put masking tape on a bit of ploythene plastic and punch the hole. I have quite a few of these as I use them in my leatherwork.

Fuselage too short, too shallow, lower wing sits too high, dihedral and rake of wings are wrong, tailplane/elevators and rudder/fin too small with wrong curvature, no anti-spin strakes - those are just off the top of my mind.

No affect other than to make it even shinier.

It would have been nice if the labels also said the RLM number. Very handy for those of us wot are colourblind. I have an old tin of Humbrol enamel number 175 which says RLM 76 on the label with the 175.

I believe richellis was referring to the modern TF, one of the latest MGs and Airfix never did an MGTF [1950s type] in that period. Gowland & Gowland did do an MGTD, Airfix did do the 1933 MG Magnette in 1977, one of these I think you may have done.

I use only Humbrol thinners now with their paints. White spirit or turps sub I've found help to turn the gloss varnish to a gel rather quickly. I'd suggest you do not use this varnish as a top final coat. It tends to yellow over a period. I only use it as a filler sealant now.

I agree with just about everything said so far. Triumphfan hit on one of the problems - licensing. Even though the like of BMC, Rootes, Triumph are physically no more the names and comany titles are owned by various companies. A fee would need to be paid to those owners just to mention the name never mind to produce a model of one of their cars. As for which cars and which scales? As Airfix seems to like all things British, perhaps a new range of iconic British cars in 1/32. Morris Mini Minor/Austin Se7en Morris Minor 1000 Triumph Spitfire MG Midget Vauxhall Chevette Jensen Interceptor FF Ford Fiesta XR2 Ford Escort XR3 Ford Sierra XR4 Ford Escort RS1800/Mexico Lotus 7 Lotus Elan 1 Lotus Europa ...........just a few off the top of me head. I've been at Airfix for years to produce a range of Austin 7 [1922-39 versions] in 1/32 - I can hope/dream, maybe some day.

I dont know too much about helicopter thingies; but what about a Blackhawk type? Dayglo pink and orange.

Brilliant. Thanks everso for putting this up. Even if I never get doing my own at least I know how its done now.

Has anyone tried Vallejo VAL400 plastic putty?

I can concur that; i use the white. Is ok for shallow fills or scratches, but anything deeper it does keep shrinking for a long time. I also use old version Humbrol, Tippex, Milliput [and a £1 shop version of it], a filler by Testor, CA 'plastic soup': - but I'm looking for someting I can 'flow' into some joints and this thread has given me some ideas. Thanks. F

I may be encouraged to join in. I'd like to build a Skoda 35T sometime.

I would use a rubber based glue, such as one for putting repair patches onto bicycle inner tubes, or someting such as Bostick or UHU.

Towards the end of the micromesh polishing one can also use toothpaste.

Made a start. Front under valence added to body shell, but it was a bit short-shot moulded so 'plastic soup' was added. 'Soup' has been added to the left hand seat to fill in the depression for the driver's bottom. The locating hole for the steering column has been filled in with Squadron White, a new hole will be drilled on the right side of the instrument panel; If I can get a decent set of wire-spoke wheels I may cut away the rear wheel covers. I think its nicer with wire wheels all showing, but the steel rim wheels could stay hidden.

It was clear enough to me.

I suppose my favourtie was the OS Enterprise 1701. By AMT I think. Built years ago, and it was a basic kit, but I enjoyed it. Then it was joined by a O/S Klingon 'Bird of Prey', again basic, but fun. They're still about somewhere.......

So, are we any closer to the needed number? And further to my earlier posting; at the rate I'm building right now I'll have all but one or two planned models available for this GB

It will affect the paint on the other parts if you put it into a sealed bag. If you apply directly and wipe off using a cloth or paper towels it will only work on the parts it hits.

I have an L&S Kentucky Musket. About 3 years ago it got me a visit by the local plods.

Its not in Airfix's interest to sell items on their website when the outlets need stock. Most sales will be through the outlets, whether high street or internet. Airfix do not want to compete against their own stockists, its not good business sense. Stock of the Lanc and Bomber Supply Set have out-stripped the stock, so Airfix have it the shops, leaving themselves with none.