Black Knight

I find the box art on the new Airfix Bomber Resupply Set a bit strange. All those bombs and vehicles just sitting there without an 'erk or W/O in sight. or is the NAAFI van just outside the picture area?

Humbrol metalcote needs 10 days to cure

Thanks chaps. I have learned a lot from your input on here. This subject and the answers are good for those transporting or sending models to shows as well as posting them. Perhaps the mods could pin this thread for keeping for future reference? T'would be excellent if the would.

If its 1/72 Aeroclub [John Aero] used to have four engine/cowlings sets in their lists ; E082 [Pegusus - Sunderland/ Hampden], E083 [Mercury -Blenheim/Lysander], E084 [Taurus - Beaufort], E085 [Hercules - (Halifax?)]. Perhaps one of these may suit your job or be modified to do so.

In the Mediterranean area RLM78 would be used.

Thanks. I've got me two kits sorted, except I've lost the canopy for the Starfix Spitfire, Do you think anybody'll notice?

I thought I could beat that but I can't. Lowest is 29 parts. When will the work thread be set up so I can post some piccies?

Aint that the truth,

Thanks Nigel. Its 'heavier' than I was reckoning. So, it would be a reasonable metal for weighting the noses of jets and such.

I believe zinc is choosen now for fishing and car wheel weights as its a cheap metal and corrodes relatively slowly. By Nigel's list, even copper is a better choice [than zinc] for model weights. At the moment copper is not very expensive. If one has access to a car breaker copper wire from a car starter system could be a choice. Either a bit of the heavy guage power lead, or a part of the earthing strap. Or an off-cut of copper pipe. It is fairly maleable, with the right size of lump hammer. Nigel; how does brass' density fit into your list? I would expect it to fit in close to iron [?] Brass can be bought in various sizes of section or sheets so it could be cut up for fitting into narrow/small spaces. When I build a jet I always fit a white metal [lead based] seat. These weigh 3g, so thats 3g less to squeeze in elsewhere. If I need lots of weight then the cockpit floor is a flat piece of lead or brass, thats another 3g off the total.

Yes it is bulky as it is lighter. In my local fishing shops lead weights have been mostly replaced by zinc, especially in the sub-30g range. In fishing the bulk of the weight doesnt really matter. Some fresh-water fishing weights are now stainless steel. Zinc is still a fairly heavy metal, but not malleable like lead. It also needs a higher temperature to melt it. So reformng some of it into useable sized pieces at home is not so easy. Without looking it up I think zinc is about 3/4 or 2/3rds the weight of lead, so one would need 1.5x or more volume space for the equivalent weight of zinc over lead. As space in some models is very limited for putting in weight, it would mean even more weight to be put in in areas which have less affect on the balance. does this help? F

I too have found they break up too easily. I've not had a sheet that hasnt. Even if they haven't been soaked long. Its as if they have no backing varnish at all. I coat them with Liquid Decal Film as a matter of course.

Checking in again for this one. Version, scale and make of kit will be decided about 0.0000000001 seconds before the start time. F

Lead weights for car wheels have been replaced with zinc and iron weights. I used to get the used weights by the bucket to make fishing weights but over the last 18 months 90% of the wights are not lead.

When you did the counting, did you do that thing with the fingers? ala 'Dusty Bin'?

Count me in too please. I need an excuse to reduce the stash a bit. Any scale?

Not necessarily; the Luftwaffe charged cylinders on 109s and JU87s whilst they were installed.

Thanks for the above insight Dennis. Very interesting and valuable info.

One of my uncles was in charge of some ground crew during the start of WW2. He had a number or 'erks who's only job [ it varied day to day who's turn it was] to put every single round through a hole in a piece of wood - to ensure they were good for use, and they wouldnt jam the guns. Good rounds were then belted up by others. I got a penance of belting rounds when in in the early 70s. Its boring, unless one has someone to chat to, and hands got soaked in oil.

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The subject is far too encompassing for me; to me its akin to 'build anything'. Dont forget that many of the old Warsaw Pact alliance are now in NATO. Perhaps if it was narrowed down more I'd take part.

Loverly job,

No. Nowt will get it off. It'll be a new canopy now I'm sorry to say to you.

Does the kit have to be built oob, or can one do some work on it to improve it? Scratch made or aftermarket parts? Fred

Blimey, dont time fly? I had to go to page one to see the start date, then search to where I'd first posted - back last December I committed myself to this. Now just over two weeks to go till the agony, pain, fun starts! I think I may do my Testors 1/48th Spad XIII first, I have some nice decals for it. If I do the Starfix 1/48th [?] Spitfire 21 first I may get too depressed and put off modelling for life. I'll have to go to the storage unit and dig the Spad out. Its in a box somewhere there. I put all my stash on a computer Excel spread sheet, listing what models were in each box, numbering the boxes. But I forgot to actually number the physical boxes!