Black Knight

I do believe I may have one or two kits which fit this category, so please count me in too.

Tom Good was a designer of give-away plastic toys. He gave up the job at the time he had to design zoo animals for a cereal company. There is an occasional reference throughout the series to this and that he prefered doing the cars and aeroplanes. 'The Good Life' was on TV at the time these car kits were being given out [local to me anyway]. So I think of him and whether he had a hand in designing them, and yes I know he was a fictional character.

Very nice. I have some of these and the detail on them is surprisingly good. Everytime I have one out to build I'm reminded of Tom Good of 'The Good Life'

IF its the area I'm thinking of - where the front grille & valance panel fits the front wings, thats not a problem due to a worn out mould. Its an inherit poor design of the parts right from the very start. No many how many replacement parts you get, they'll have this same poor fit.

Try silk. You could get a ladies silk blouse from a charity shop for a couple of quid. Cut it up, glue it on, then either dope it or just paint if its on tight enough.

Klear is not actually a floor polish, its an acrylic lacquer. Other floor polishes contain wax, and solvents not in Klear. Once you recognise that its a lacquer, look at the contents/ingredients of different subjects. Ignore the addition of perfume. Also look to see if it has to be removed using ammonia or a solution of ammonia. If it cleans up with turps or white spirit then its a waxy floor polish so ignore it. Just as you have the problem knowing about Klear, I cannot say about your suggestions as I dont know whats in them. I found an alternative, called 'Astonish', ingredients the same as Klear, plus perfume. Its cloudy in the liquid but dries perfectly clear and the perfume smell disappears fairly quickly. Astonish sells for 99p per 750ml. Klear, or Future can be a lot more expensive. Hth, F

Actually, most camo schemes were designed by landscape artists, Some worked, some didnt.

From what I remember the car was owned by one of the producers. Might it have been re-sprayed or rebodied during its life-time?

Ah, hard to choose, but I think I'd put as my no.1 the Munch Mammut, no.2; 500cc Manx Norton and no.3.....is undecided yet. Sorry no pictures, but I'm sure you know what these common M'bikes look like.

multipack of 6 or 8 by two finger bars are still in very light aluminium foil.

or foil from a kitkat bar

Thats seriously good value; under 4p an ounce. Last I checked scrap lead was going for 10p to 15p an ounce.

As well as the 10A blades, I keep a number 3 handle with a no.12 blade. 12 is the hook blade. I find it use full for cutting parts off sprues, getting inside small openings and various other duties.

From what I have read, others have had to do major surgery on the seated soldiers to enable them to fit into the Landrovers. It can be, and has been, done. The crew were really only designed to fit the Jackal and Coyote.

Would you consider; thin sections of wood glued together to make a greater thickness, then that covered with leather glued on? If so; shields have been made of wood laminations [ply] and covered in leather [or for cheap ones; multiple layers of linen] since great antiquity. A 'Coat of Plates' armour could be considered composite. Greeks, Romans, Medieval, wore them.

Not one but the remains of two Do-217. Just small bits though.

In some of my books I have photos of 85 squadron's Hurricanes with their hexagon on the fin, not just in France but also Britain, early 1940. The hexagon was rotated according to the flight. I think flat to bottom was A flight, point to bottom was B flight.

Mossie being chased by [the new] 262 which in turn is about to bounced by a P51 That would take up a table or two at SMW,

My thoughts are it'll be an F86E/F Sabre. Many decal options for re-issues of kits in the future.

The oval panel was a knock-out to equalise the air pressure within the cockpit and outside to make it easier for the pilot to open the canopy whilst flying at speed. It was added after pilots passed word on about the difficulty of opening the canopy at high speeds.

A fair bit is need to change an E to an F. Not just the nose. The wing tips, wing span, different shape to u/c wells, supercharger intake, remove tailplane support struts, add fish plates to tail section, different canopy - just off the top of my head, others will tell you more details An E3/4 can be backdated to an E1 by removing the cannon and magazine bulges, and a different canopy. E6 and E9 photo recon can be made easily, with little addition.

mmmmmmmmm, on age of kit = yes as its so inaccurate any dino kit will be more so - replaced by a more accurate kit = yes is it a bad kit? maybe = no 2 out of 3 But what the 'eck - the man from D-Dee he say 'yes'!

I go away to be busy for part of a day, and what do I find when I get back? eh? eh? about a million build threads started up. yeah, well youse is gonna have to wait a bit for my two - so there. Gonna be a bit busy the next few days doing some road recce for a rally I have suddenly just volunteered myself to organise. Two weeks to get routes sorted and road books done up. Sorry gone off-topic there.

Excellent.

I do reverse spraying for white circles. I spray an area white then use a sticky label - available from stationers in sizes of approx 4mm to 30mm in 0.5mm steps - to mask the white then spray or brush paint the colour. Adding a decal of white does add another layer. If you go that way, after spraying the white, cut out from the reverse with a very sharp blade, it lessens the affect of the paint chipping at the edges.