Black Knight

I tot wee wuz just tawkin like

I have absolutely loads of white decal for this but I came across the 'nail art' coloured tapes and thought I'd try it out on this. As it is meant for finger nails it might be robust enough for a model, but its not opaque enough for my liking

My real interest lies in the 14th Century. That is because I used to be in a 'Medieval History' presentation group and were tended to concentrate on the period 1170 to 1326. And for certain information, eg daily eating, I was the one relied upon to do the research. But I favoured 1307 to 1389. Then other periods were taken in as my period was influenced by or influenced other eras Using my time machine I do travel back to the Classical Greek, Mid-Roman, Greater Viking and early Europe periods. (11th to 13th centuries) (take a packed lunch and hand wipes) My time machine is useful for going forwards (in perspective from the 14th C ) to the English Civil War period, The Glorious Revolution years and on through to the Napoleonic Wars to visit Quatre Bras and Waterloo. But the Battle of Trafalgar was scary. I noticed this chap there; I've only stopped off for a tea break in the Tudor period and met Queen Elizabeth 1st and to see the ships Mary Rose and Peter Pomegranate If you look hard enough there are some model kits out there. for early periods. Not a great many, but they are there. From wheellock pistols, Viking ships & crew, Greek, Athenian, Roman figures by Miniart, white-metal and resin Knights of 11th to 15th Centuries and more Aurora, and some others did a Roman Bireme https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=bireme* and Triremes https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=trireme** My current time machine is reluctant to come, or to visit anything newer, more recent, as WW1 or even beyond 1816, but by fiddling with the glass valves and the flux capacitor and the triode dielectric nodule I've managed to trick it into visiting the US West of 1860s through 1910. But that is for my leather crafting projects only so far Time travel is currently suspended due to that I can not get some new used radioactive uranium from a certain eastern Europe country Models of things from early periods certainly make interesting displays at shows. A real break from lines of aeroplanes or tanks, no matter how well they are built and displayed. Although of a period later than you reckon; my series of 1/72 WW1 Fokker Dr.1s in their multitudinous of bright paint jobs drew more attention than all the other aircraft/AFVs/ships at the last show my club did. I even had some people wanting to buy them!

'Liquid Green Stuff' from Citadel. I thin it a wee bit more with 'Astonish' to make it water resistant for wet sanding

Several coats of red paint later; Then the big reveal; how bad was the blue stripe? and then masked up and the black de-icing boots on the wings' leading edges painted Not too bad. Now for all that white pin striping. On the tail planes I've tried some 'nail art' very thin white tape. Its less than 1mm wide and as thin as decal. And about the tail planes; when I tried the elevators there was a huge gap. I had to trim the elevators for a neat fit Engine pods are coming on slowly

I just got some new replacement tyres for a Corgi Land Rover from this ebay seller; https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Vintage-Manufacture/180507/m.html?ssPageName=&_ssn=t_a_ausi55 The new tyres are excellent replacements

A. its a model. I think a resto WiP would be acceptable b. I get resto wheels from a certain ebay seller; https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=kandrreplicas&store_name=kandrreplicas&_dmd=2&_oac=1&_sop=15

On car paints they do rapid simulated tests Samples of paints are put under strong UV lights for days. Dusty air is blasted over panels of the paints. Drops of ammonia are sprayed on and washed off, day after day. And many more tests. ICI used to have a paint test facility in Co, Antrim

Its a beacon on the top of the canopy

This is my attempt at the Chipmunk King Charles III learnt to fly in when he was Prince Charles Not 100%. I used the smallest roundels and letters I have but I think they are a bit big But its done I see there is an aftermarket decal sheet for the 1/48 Airfix kit with this Chippie on it

Other Airfix car / vehicle kits have female passengers; eg Beach Buggy, Alfa Romeo, Bus

Aircraft such as the Lockheed Hudson used the pulsating rubber boot on the wings and tail fins

@PeterB Join the debate!

Both the new 1/35 K2 Ambulance model kits have the registration number of that particular K2 on their decal sheets. The Airfix kit certainly has it A1212251

I mixed Humbrol 11 Silver and 56 Aluminium in equal amounts to get a slightly shiny aluminium

afair, the RAF used it in Europe after D-Day and in Italy from about after the Italian surrender in September 1943

Dunno if this adds anything. Both my father and a bro-in-law, one served in US Army 1951 on , the other Irish Guards, c.1956 on, said when an inspection was due their vehicles were washed down with petrol. It gave the vehicles a 'nice sheen, almost a gloss'

Last night I got the blue line taped over. Then I paint a dull aluminium over the blue which was showing past the masking The cockpit canopy is on and the windows masked. Oddly Airfix hasn't marked the side windows on the part so I had estimate them This morning the whole Heron was painted over with gloss orange, except for the cockpit canopy which got a coat of grey The Royal Heron was finished in a high visibility red. I'll be using Humbrol 174 Signal Red. But that takes several coats to get an even finish so I'm using Humbrol 19 Bright Red first as a base coat, it covers well in one coat. I have to do it area by area, I need somewhere to hold! And I've fit the aerial on the top of the fuselage and the mounts for the 'towel-rail' aerials underneath I must crack on with the engines now

mmmm, another idea for a Whif I have several 'scrap' E.E. Lightnings (the only one, the pure one, all the rest are just . . . . not) and I could devote one to this idea

I used to cast car club badges for my vintage car club members. These were made in white-metal, i.e. a lead/tin alloy. On these, as well as on other copies of the badges previously made in brass, I used Humbrol enamels to paint in the details. I used Humbrol numbers, 2. 3, 14, 15, 11, 16, 21, 22. I never used a primer or undercoat, just a few coats of the Humbrol gloss paint These badges were about a 5 inch circle on a 2 inch long and wide mounting lug. They were attached, usually, to a badge bar across the front of the car. They were mounted and forgotten about. For a few years, at every car club event, I used to check every badge I'd made and/or painted to see how they were holding up. After a awhile I stopped checking. Other than the occasional very small chip in the paint, there was no flaking off, no change in colour at all Our car club cars are not 'show cars' No spit and polish, but the cars are used for racing, hill climbs, trials, long and short distance rallies (short is about 100 mile, longest is about 15,000 miles), in all and every type of weather that can be thrown at us, from the freezing ice of Patagonia Andes mountains to the hot & dry plains of Mongolia and the warm rain of Ireland The Humbrol enamels on the badges have survived it all with no change in colour after more than 15 years in some cases

Just do not pay the absolutely silly money people are asking for them on ebay Work up to having at least 100 honest postings on here and you can then put a 'Wanted' in the 'Wants' section of the marketplace

Inspiration for a paint job on one of my scrap model cars when I rebuild one of them; maybe on a Jaguar E-Type Masking up will be a Night Mare, but no worse than Swedish Forest Splinter Camouflage

I like the Humbrol 160 Used on this;

Matt yellow base for gold and matt green for BRG

What's wrong with the wheels?