Black Knight
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Posts posted by Black Knight
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On 30/10/2022 at 17:49, JackG said:
. . . The hood ornament is sitting on the rad, . . .
The 'hood ornament' is the Calorimeter. Its is the radiator water temperature gauge. It is a moving needle sandwiched between two pieces of thick glass with a metal frame. It screws down into the radiator top tank and has a metal tube which is immersed in the water. The needle and its ' cold-----hot' range scale can be clearly seen by the vehicle driver
On 1/32 vehicles I make it out of a slice of round clear sprue
Here you can see the calorimeter on my Austin 7 Ulster
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Can you reposition the panel back into place and hold it there with Blue tac?
Then apply the decal and then very carefully cut the decal
Thats how I did the under-wing numbers on this Vampire
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The slats were often coupled to a thermoswitch within the engine cooling water
As the engine water temperature rose the thermoswitch would make the slats open. When the water was cold or in cold weather the thermoswitch closed the slats. On the good systems the amount open or closed was infinitely variable, on cheap systems there was only two or three positions viz; open, (half-open,) closed
Rolls Royce, Bentley, Lagonda and many others used this system. Its a real burgerbar to repair the system
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On 03/10/2020 at 19:29, Black Knight said:
1. its a PVA adhesive
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8. I've tried many liquids but I've not yet found anything that can thin this stuff to make the thickened useable again
A follow up now that has been brought to my attention again
1. its not quite a PVA glue but is neoprene based
. . . .
8. Evo-stick contact adhesive Cleaner thins it. I have revitalised three bottles of Clearfix which had thickened to the point of being unusable and ready for the bin
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A real simple bodge 'fix' for the mudguards is to just glue some (plastic) card over the gaps between the two.
It makes them look right, and its easier than making new ones
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Not polystyrene, but there is Dymo Label tape.
A plastic, self-adhesive, fairly thin. Can be stuck down and sanded thinner
After sticking down with its own adhesive flood some Mek on its edges, then sand the surface to get rid of the glossy finish and it will take enamel paint
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I got a a different 503 screen and DNS a few times during last night and I wasn't actively on BM at the time
I was logged in and the BM tab was open in the window but I was actively on other forums when I noticed that the wording in the BM tab had changed
I opened the BM tab, which was showing a 503, got on to BM, went back to my other forums and a bit later the same happened
repeat above about 5 times over about a 2 hour time
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I wish Airfix would dump that abomination that have for a Eurofighter Typhoon and replace it with a proper detailed one
Spitfires VIII, XII and XIV in 1/72
HMS Caroline (I believe the Airfix LIDAR team visited it a few years ago when they were over doing the F4 Phantom II and the Buccaneer at the UAS)
and the next 1/24 superkit will be a Gloster Gladiator
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In model railway buildings we used to line the inside with kitchen aluminium foil. Stopped the light coming through plastic but also made what came out windows brighter
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The last couple of weeks was spent applying coat after coat of blue paint and micro-mesh sanding in between, then the same with gloss varnish.
Nearly there;
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Use them all the time.
The old glue has perished so one needs to soak the decal off the backing paper, flip it over and use water to wash off the old glue, which looks like a yellow-white powder. Then apply the decal as normal Despite having no glue on it now the decal goes on real loverly and settles down, very rarely needs any decal setting solution on them
I can't remember ever having any that broke up or fell apart
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. . . . . and another idea
Round florists wire. Its soft iron. If you very lightly hammer it on an anvil you can make it go from round to oval.
But you are very limited on the size of strut you can make
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The Americans tended to remove the barrel and working end of the gun but leave the cooling sleeve mounted in place thus it would like the whole gun was still there
In the RAF the gunner was responsible for removing the single or double guns and taking them to the armoury. Later with the multiple gun turrets a ground crew-man/woman did that job
afaik it was always a ground-crewman removed and fitted the guns in the Luftwaffe
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Question; are you shure its a standard revolver and not a Very Light pistol?
Can you post a link to the photo?
Because I'm interested/intrigued
and again, its dead easy to scratch make a holstered pistol out of plastic card
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Would it not have been a Colt 1911A1 automatic pistol?
It was rare for US serviceman to use revolvers (General Patton being one of those exceptions)
Its quite easy to make a holstered pistol from plastic card
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Austin-Healey
K&R Replicas does the A-H 3000 as a metal kit, in 1/24
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/kandr-replicas-kar2424-austin-healey-3000--996039
Aurora did the 3000 in 1/32
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As I said over there;
In WW1 the US Army used hybrid trucks in France
Prior to WW1 electric and hybrid vehicles were very common and more reliable than petrol i/c engines
One thing that I read about the US Army using electric/hybrid trucks in France was that they could move supplies to forward positions relatively quietly, and at night, and not attract the attention of the German artillery
My paternal grandfather drove munitions supply wagons for his artillery regiment in WW1 France. 20 or so horse drawn wagons on a gravel road make a lot of noise and it attracted German artillery often and they got shelled. Electric trucks could carry more and were quieter and could go faster than a four-in-hand horse team
btw, back in the early 1970s teachers told us that the oil would run out by; 1980, 1985, 1990, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2010, 2020, 2030. It will run out when there is no more
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Hybrid is not new.
Prior to WW1 there were hybrid trucks as well as cars.
In WW1 the US Army used a number of hybrid trucks in France. The US Army was unprepared for war so impressed civilian trucks
and WW1 and WW2 submarines were 'hybrid'
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Nice build
but your prop swinger is on the wrong blade
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Nice build
But I believe you've fallen into the common trap of painting it grey
Buddecke himself said it was yellow
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One other thought on making new struts
If you heat stretch sprue, to a thinness you require, after its hard very carefully squash it with a pair of pliers., it will go from round to oval section
I have some special pliers I use for the metal fittings in my leather and jewellery making. One pair has perfectly smooth jaws which I use to do this
I made the cabane struts on this Airfix 1/72 Bristol Bulldog that way
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I have used 0.3mm drills and wire to fix 1/72 biplane struts and 1/72 u/c legs on others. I just did the front leg on a 1/72 F-104
Sometimes a new strut needs making. John Adams did a tutorial on it
Its quite easy to do
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This is not a joke.
Its real story. A humorous story
The other day I was on a local bus which goes between Donaghadee and Belfast. On its way it stops in Newtownards
In Newtownards a woman gets on
As the conversation went on it was obvious that the English language is not her first language
Woman to bus driver; 'I want a return'
Bus driver 'where to?'
'back here' (yes, honestly she said that)
'where do you want to go?'
Woman points upwards
'upstairs?' (it was a double-decker bus)
'yes, no, there!' woman very vigorously points upwards
bus driver realises she is trying to point to the destination sign on the front of the bus
'Belfast?'
'yes, there' she still points
'you want a return to Belfast?'
'no. no, no, I want to return here, I no want to return to Belfast!'
'you want to go to Belfast and return here?. That will be £3.70'
'I have to pay?! How do I pay?
'Have you any money?'
'No'
'Do you have a debit card?'
'No. I only have my phone'
she pays via her phone. The driver gives her a paper ticket
'What is this?'
'Its your ticket. show it to the bus driver when you are coming back'
'will you not be bringing me back?
'no, it will be different bus with a different driver'
'you have more than one bus!?'
and she made her way upstairs to the top deck
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The white flecks are the matting agent. Its separating out.
You could try adding some alcohol into the varnish to thin it and dissolve the agent back in
It will take a bit of time for the agent to dissolve and re-integrate. Then leave the container open and let some of the alcohol evaporate to bring the varnish back to how you like it
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Fourtunatly, I brought an extra pair
in Chat
Posted
from the bowling alley