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J.C. Bahr

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About J.C. Bahr

  • Birthday 12/04/1974

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    Kansas, U.S.A.

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  1. Thanks for posting this Troy! I'd ran across a small version of it a long time ago, but could never find a bigger pic like you posted. Can I ask where this originates from?
  2. Well, always easier to remove plastic than to have to add it.
  3. Oooh, let's hope so! Would love to see Airfix do a new Vix... BADLY needed!
  4. Wish Arma would consider doing a joypack version of these like AZ did with their 109G kits! I just need the kit plastic without all the other fancy stuff... have enough B/C decals in the stash to last for years!
  5. Why no sprue shots, if it's so close to release?
  6. Most likely the culprit, as I keep seeing it recommended to use a dedicated curing box, or in the case of a "homemade" box, using some sort of turn table... as the curing light needs to be able to get at it from all angles/sides. Could also depend on type and color of resin used, as it does not appear that all photo-polymer resins/colors are created equal unfortunately... and another problem there-in, is that even the supposedly good name brand stuff can have "bad batches!" Very nice build and creation though... keep it up!
  7. Well, with the flex plate scuffed up with sandpaper (which I believe is recommended by Wham Bam), we have not had any more issues with adhesion to the build plate or removal of parts.
  8. Might I recommend this for you: https://whambamsystems.com/fbs-for-resin A buddy of mine and I recently got into this whole resin printing thing and been learning a lot on the fly very quickly with a Photon Mono... and until we added one of these magnetic flex plates, we were getting a lot of failed prints not wanting to stick to the plate.
  9. Anyone considering a resin printer (at least from Anycubic) should look at investing the extra money for the Mono/Mono-X series... their print bed screens will last longer than the earlier models.
  10. November 1995 was the Finescale Modeler issue that had the article on converting the ESCI F-5B and it was not Paul Boyer, but Tom Black who wrote that article. Besides thinning the belly in the area of the main wheels, filling in the speed brakes/re-scribing them, removing the LERX leading edges, closing/filling-in the leading edge slats, re-shaping the intake lips, thinning the main wheels, using a nose-gear fork half from an Testors/Italeri F-5E, a nose-wheel from an ESCI F-104C, adding the landing light under the nose, back-filling/re-shaping of the drag-chute housing at the base of the tail, adding the sheet metal fairing bridging the tops of the exhaust cans, removing a tear-drop fairing on both sides of the vertical stab in front of the rudder, modifying the existing ejection seats to have chute housings for the head-rests and a few other blade antenna additions... there's not a whole lot of other heavy work to get a passable (early) T-38. In regards to the wheels... I have some thoughts on this... since the article was written in 1995, the after-market has matured and here is what I've been eyeing towards my own conversion... ResKit has recently released a couple of Navy T-28 sets that I believe their nose-wheels could be used for the cause: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RS72-0206?result-token=zXtV9 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RS72-0208?result-token=zXtV9 For the early style mains (that I believe there were two styles of also)... I think early/late A-4 Skyhawk mains would be passable: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AIRE7238?result-token=JPv4F https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/AIRE7242?result-token=JPv4F As for the later style mains with the holes in them?... jury is still out on that one... I have not ran across anything else that seems close... unless anyone else can weigh in with ideas? Other thoughts?
  11. Buyer BEWARE! I just got this kit from Hannant's and the bomber nose pieces (Sprue G near the tip tanks) were clipped and missing. Modeling Madness reported this as well with one he got. There are reviews and others advertised for sale showing pics of the sprues with the parts intact, so it's a mystery why some have it and some don't. EDIT - have heard more on this and about 50-75 of the kits got through with the pieces intact before they had to be removed... so if you got one with the pieces intact, you got lucky. So don't believe any reviews/pics that support getting those parts. Hannants have updated their site to reflect this too and offered me a refund.
  12. Swearing removed - read the forum rule and comply.
  13. I think there is a definite early G/H radome option... because if you compare the 2nd and 3rd photo... look where the back lower radome line is... in the 2nd photo, it lines up with the rear vertical cockpit frame (like the earlier models)... but in the 3rd photo, it lines up with the front vertical frame (but there is a panel line still below the rear frame though). Also, the top of the nose angles down more in the 2nd photo, than the 3rd, but not nearly as much as the 1st photo.
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