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dubster72

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Everything posted by dubster72

  1. Paul's suggestion of trying a few is a good one. But whatever you do, make sure you buy a compressor - if the available budget needs stretching or the purchase delayed, you'll not regret it. Canned air is expensive & unpredictable in use.
  2. Really great work, the colour modulation is excellent!
  3. A very nice P IV there Chris. Although the Academy kits lack the fancy features of modern Dragon ones, it still looks like a Panzer IV Armour painting guides are generally way behind those you'll find with aircraft kits. As far as your colours go, the yellow is fine, but I'd lighten the brown & green a touch on any future builds. Another small detail that can add a great deal is painting the wooden parts (tool handles, cleaning rods) in a light tan. Once dry, go over with some dark brown oil paint & keep brushing lengthwise until you're left with a streaky effect. It really gives a wooden look. Cheers Patrick
  4. Most Tamiya & Academy kits are easy builds. And as the guys have said, even the older ones are worth making. The Panzer II from Tamiya is 40 odd years old, but it still comes out well. You can usually pick it up for £10 if you've got a Hobbycraft near you.
  5. As Rick said, thin them down well with white spirit & you're good to go. Do remember that enamels will dry quicker than oils, so mop up any excess before they dry.
  6. The canopy mask is well worth the money to save a lot of frustration IMHO. Don't forget to paint the fuselage band before doing the main colours. I know it's an obvious one, but I DID forget & that's why mine is currently a KUTA
  7. The Eduard Bf 109 E-4 weekend edition builds into a lovely model. The detail is excellent & unlike many other Eduard kits, it's not difficult or overly complicated.
  8. I really wouldn't recommend using a Vallejo wash. I know some people use them to good effect, but they're difficult to get good results without mucho practice. Oil paint washes are so much easier to do. As long as the gloss coat is fully cured any excess will wipe off with a cotton bud or kitchen towel. Applying the wash in small, precise amounts will drastically reduce the amount of excess to be removed.
  9. Another vote for RB Models! Excellent quality & reasonable prices
  10. A very nice result! I like the weathering & the ambush camouflage turned out really well. Cheers Patrick
  11. Cheers for that Andy, it's useful to know! I can feel an experiment coming on I guess using a cellulose based thinner kinda defeats the purpose of using acrylics, but it's the results that count!
  12. Andy, you're not advocating thinning a water-soluble acrylic with a cellulose-based thinner are you? I'd have thought that would lead to a nasty gloopy mess! Tamiya acrylics thin very nicely with cellulose thinner, but they're alcohol based, and so chemically compatible.
  13. Although an inveterate user of enamels, I've tried the Ammo by Mig acrylics as an attempt to convert myself Thus far I've found them to be better than Vallejo Model Air and I've not found much difference thinning them with their branded thinner, UMP thinner & blue screenwash(!) But all acrylics in my experience fall short of enamels. If you're happy with Tamiya acrylics & don't mind mixing a few shades, why not check a paint conversion chart to see what the Tamiya equivalent would be?
  14. Nice! A simple guide to getting the best out of one's photography Perhaps a future instalment could cover backgrounds? I've found that different colour backgrounds dramatically affect the look of a photo. Cheers Patrick
  15. I've build this one (haven't got round to finishing it though) & it's a great kit. Lovely fine detail, restrained panel lines. IMHO the guns are fine OOB, aftermarket ones don't add much to the kit ones. Cheers Patrick
  16. I built this one a few years ago (mine had the 'action' box art) Apart from it's Tamiya-derived motorised history, using screws to fix the drive housings for example, it's a fuss-free kit. Looking forward to seeing more of this one. Cheers Patrick
  17. That depends on knowing a little more info, most especially if it's Model Air or Model Colour & the price!Model Colour is tough to spray with an airbrush, although good for brush painting. Vis a versa for Model Air. Many of the Vallejo sets are for uniforms, not tanks so it's worth checking that.
  18. That is very nicely done Mark. The Academy kit isn't the most detailed & the cast texture on the turret is way too much, but you've produced an excellent T-34. Cheers Patrick
  19. The 'frosting' or white bloom effect is almost invariably caused by insufficient mixing. The white is the raw matting agent. Damp, humidity & excessive temperature also have a negative effect, but I've used Humbrol Matt Coat for years without problems - as long as I've stirred it well!
  20. That looks very very nice! A great example of a mean & beautiful fighter
  21. The different camo really does look good! As does the foliage, nice & natural. I think that the base needs some figures, if only to give a sense of scale to the behemoth The individual link tracks in the Jagdtiger kits aren't proper Dragon Magic Tracks. But at least you didn't have the Revell re-box... those are a flashy nightmare!
  22. IMHO you need more dots there Eric
  23. I'm with Biggles - for a newbie to airbrushing, Tamiya is the most vice-free of all the acrylics. All the others (Lifecolor, Vallejo, Hataka etc) will lead to tip clogging & inconsistent flow that can frustrate anyone who's new to airbrushing. But Tamiya isn't without its own potential pitfalls. The most common is where the paint partially dries before it hits the model surface, resulting in a grainy effect. Tamiya paints like to go down wet, so don't be afraid of getting in close or using a high PSI - 25 to 30. And always remember that although acrylics are technically non toxic you still don't want to be breathing in their particulates. Even a basic dust mask will help keep your lungs healthy.
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