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The Loggie

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  1. I gotta thank the guy who cut the mould for this model. He was thoughtful enough to include 2 x spare road-wheels. I have this model in-progress, and I needed to use one spare. Admittedly, it DID need some trimming to make some of the parts fir correctly. George, out. TX ends.............................
  2. Photo No.7 is held-up as proof that a 2-man mini-sub penetrated the harbour and fired its 2 torpedoes (from close range) at a battleship. There does seem to be 2 x tracks originating from a single point. The 3 x 'water-plumes' are said to have been caused by the sub's propeller breaking the surface when the sub was lightened by the act of loosing its 2 torpedoes. Great photos. Thanks for the link. George, out..............
  3. Doug, I'm no expert, but the Airfix Churchill looks fine to me. If you have one, then build it. When you build it, the little wheels, and the springs on-which they are to be mounted, are correctly spaced for each-other while they are still on the sprues. It makes building the bogies very quick and easy. It you detach the pieces first, the small size makes the assembly very fiddley. Good luck & have fun. George, out......................
  4. Nicely done, Hugues. George, out............
  5. Dermo245, there IS another way to make bullet-wounds on a model. Paint a panel black and cover it with thin kitchen cooking-foil (glued-down, naturally). BEFORE the gluing, tie a knot in a cotton thread, and thread it (use a needle) through the foil (with the knot on the inside). You need only a short piece of thread poking out (2-3mm). Paint and cam the model as per normal, then (you guessed it) rip-out the knot. Try it on a piece of plastic card, first, to see the method, and to see if you like the effect. Good luck and have fun. George, out...................
  6. Mate, make your own from thin wire or this brass wire. Several options. 1 - buy a grab-handle forming template (it looks like a flat Xmas tree), bend thin wire over it, and there is your handle. Repeat 20, 40, 50 times - whatever floats your boat. Secure with superglue so that it is perpendicular to the surface. 2 - drill two small/tiny (but DEEP) holes, insert the thin wire (over the top of a piece of plastic strip - it forms the bends), and secure the ends with superglue. Bend (as required) to make them perpendicular to the surface. Hint - if one leg is LONGER that the other (by only a little) it is EASY to position the long side, then to insert the other leg. Insert a stand-off spacer (that does NOT touch the legs) then dot-on the superglue. Make the spacer from a piece of scrap strip or card. It'll ensure that the bar of the tie-down (or grab-handle or step or ladder rung) is parallel to the surface. Hint - I get them all the same size by using a pair of standard screw-adjusting geometry dividers to mark where the ends of the tie-downs will go. Have the needles VERY short so that there is virtually NO PLAY in the needles. Push the needles into the plastic (to form divots), then drill the sockets (for the wire) with a small drill-bit. I avoid PE ones (they cost, and they are fragile) and the kit ones are usually way too thick. Good luck. George, out.....................
  7. Away with ya all. I read Lion & Thunder for 'The Black Max' and 'The Steel Commando' - bot of-which I will model. Though I dunno about a killer-bat. George, out. TX ends.................
  8. At last!! I've just ordered 2 x sets. George, out...............
  9. Could your 'too bright' perception be due to a lack of fading? George, out..............
  10. In the book "Air Gunner" the author was stationed in Malta. He and some friends were walking home, and they saw a German flyingboat (in full German colours and markings) emerge from a hanger, and take-off. They reported it to their IO (Intel Offr). They then received a dressing-down, and threatened with dire consequences if they EVER revealed what they saw. Dunno what sort of aircraft it was. I don't have the book in front of me. George, out......................
  11. Gentlemen, I have devised the EASIEST way to rig. The only limitation is that you need to use elastic EZ-Line, so there is little real support for the struts. I build the fuselage & lower wing as a complete (inc painting, decaling & weathering) sub assembly. Ditto the upper wing. AND I paint the struts. Now, I superglue the lengths of EZ-Line (at their 2/3rd point) into the strut sockets of the lower wing, then cement the struts into the sockets (over the EZ-Line). Quickly, dry-fit the upper wing on top of the struts and square-up the the two wings. I find that it is easiest if you blutack the upper wing, upside-down, onto a card (so you can rotate it as you work). Next day, lift the fuselage+L/wing, then draw the EZ-Line over the tops of the struts and secure with more superglue. Trim the dags (dangley bits) and cement-on the upper wing. Where the rigging must anchor at the L/wing-fuselage join, attach the EZ-Line before attaching the L/wing (obviously). Rigging without that pesky upper wing in the way makes the job a piece-of-cake. Buy a large cheapie kit (I used a Smer 48-scale Tigermoth) and give it a go - I DARE you. George, out..........................
  12. Will HLJ get more models of the Fireflash airliner? That's the one that I'm after. George, out..............
  13. On the Airfix kit, the bars that hold the sights are too thick due to the limits of the moulding process. So, replace with brass. Also missing are the 2 x sight rings. You could do these from thin clear sheet with rings and diameters scratched on them. Dunno if PE ones exist. This one'll do me. George, out....................
  14. G'Day ChrisD. Your info seems to confirm much of what I suspect about what guns she carried. Rockets (I suspect) would have been PAC Projectors - Parachute-and-cable projectors. PACs were rockets that were launched into the path of an aircraft attacking at low-level. The rocket towed a steel cable that was fitted with 3 small parachutes of different sizes, and a small bomb. The cable could become tangled in the aircraft's propeller, or it could snag on a wing. If it hit a wing, the parachutes would cause the explosive charge to be pulled-down against the wing, where it would explode on contact. 3" guns were the biggest AA guns that the Brits had. 40mm Bofors guns were in use by the Army. 20mm were in widespread use by the RN. So I'm guessing that the Queen Mary had a detachment of soldiers (or Marines?) specifically to man the guns. Because of the importance of the passengers, I would NOT have trusted the ships crew to man the guns, nor would I have trained the embarked passengers to man the guns. Plus, the detachment could have manned the guns when she had no passengers, because she was a significant asset. Thanks for sharing, and I'll certainly seek-out the book. George, out..................
  15. G'Day Guys. I've a Revell 570-scale RMS Queen Mary that I wish to build in her wartime troop-carrier role. I have an overhead diagram of her, and some info. OK - she had a 6" stern-chaser. The diagram shows gun-tubs of several sizes. As she could out-run almost anything that could sink her - except aircraft, I surmise that most of her guns were for air-defence. So, what would she have carried? Is there any firm information? I'm guessing that she woulda had some 3" AA guns in the few larger tubs, and in the smaller tubs, 40mm (Bofors? or pom-poms?) 20mm (singles? or multi?) and 50Cal machineguns (singles? quads? or 8's?). Any idea what colour I should use? As she was known as the Grey Ghost, I reckon that she was a pale grey. TIA. George, out...................
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