Decoman

Wow, this was a mistake. Hehe, apparantly the primer paint most certainly cannot be painted on while being somewhat sticky. My aluminium metal coat started to mix with it and create lumps. Luckily I managed to wipe it all off. I am willing to guess that this primer stuff is used for airbrushing, that dries more quickly. Edit: I will put my recently painted models inside my display case from now on for drying, to prevent dust. I have up until now tried to keep the kits and sprues entirely inside its box. I put small parts in smaller cups with lids on them so that they don't get lost.

I stumbled upon this list on Wikipedia showing various scales togther with a brief comment on its use. I thought this list could be interesting to those who would want to add or change anything. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes

I painted some primer on parts of a small kit and was annoyed by how sticky the paint seemed even after a day of drying. Guess I won't be using this primer anymore when using a regular brush.

*nevermind* I was wondering at first what the difference was bewteen Gr.1 and FRS.1, but later realized that Gr.1 is perhaps the oldest version of the harriers disregarding any prototypes.

I have a P-51D Mustang kit from Italeri, and noticed that one of the color schemes (Royal Air Force, Sqdn. 65, April 1945 it says) has a green color explained as "pale green + flat white" (1716 modelmaster/FS 34227 + 1768 modelmaster/FS 37875). I imagine that this green color will be brighter than OP's one.

I noticed recently that there is a Humbrol enamel 1 bottle called 'primer' and I wonder if it would add anything to the quality of the paintjob, allthewhile using a simple brush and not airbrushing. Any thoughts on this? I imagine that an extra layer of paing, with primer, could perhaps make the surface look less appealing if the paint is too thick or whatnot. Not sure what to expect.

I bought this other lamp with the 22W light and I have to conclude that the magnifier seem fairly useless. At least the lamp offer some nice and bright white'ish light, and it was cheap.

At 24 seconds in, one can see those things move back in together with some air-brake-looking-thing at the rear. I will guess that the panels are some kind of air brake.

Usually: • Hospital/medical helicopter (noisy), flies a regular route above my appartement. Could be an Eurocopter EC145 • Police helicopter, usually loitering above the city (noisy) Eurocopter EC135 On rare occasions: • A F-16 or two • A Bell AB 412 or two • Old aircraft, the events were too rare to being able to remember them. Odd events: • A cargoplane flew really really low and quiet (past my house) against a pitch black sky around eight of clock in february 2011 or something like that. I noticed a parallax effect of seeing the navigation lights because I accidentally looked out the window. I ran out to the kitchen and opened the window to see the thing fly/sail past at approx. 100m off, about 50m up in the air, hearing propellar engines but the sound was rather quiet. In retrospect I suspect the range and height was perhaps doble of my estimate. I could vaguely spot some kind of Hercules C-130 shape because of the lights and maybe some vague silhuette. Could have been some other similar aircraft imo. • Looking out the kitchen window one night, I turned my head to the left and suddenly hear a helicopter sound, then shortly after a helicopter obviously appear using a search light at really really low level. It flies past my building and probably did a 90'ish deg turn and went away. • A helicopter with a search light (probably police, the only helicopter they have at my place afaik) arrived and inspected a building nearby across my kitchen. I guess they thought someone had broken into the building.

I guess I was wrong about the torpedo earlier. Never having seen a British torpedo before in detail, I simply thought the British torpedoes would look really different than the german ones.

@SwedeInSiam I measured my glass plates to be 285mm (depth) and 380mm (width). Those extra glass plates from IKEA seem to be too small for the DETOLF cabinet, both in width and depth it seems.

I want to try getting this kind of seal for my DETOLF cabinet. It is exactly what I want (beside the color perhaps). http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/42459989...atherstrip.html

That lamp of yours look pretty much exactly like the other lamp I can buy. This other lamp has a slightly larger diameter than the model I linked a picture to in my first post here. According to the webpage, there are only 3 diopters coming with this other lamp. The light seem more powerful with 22W instead of 12W (the one from the first post). I suspect I might change my mind and go for this other lamp. A third option is some similar (possibly higher quality, lamp for wood carving) lamp, but that one costs over twice the price than this other lamp.

I heard in a video that one will want to lower the pressure of the airbrush, when working more closely to the surface of a model. Assuming this is common, I want to ask if paints should be mixed with thinners all depending on what air pressure is used with the airbrushing Perhaps the airbrushed paint will become too dry or too wet depending on the circumstance? Btw, I do not yet use an airbrush.

The hull seem to have a nice texture to it imo. I also like the light gray color, brightly colored models looks better than a dark ones I think. I wonder what is the approximate length of the model.

IKEA has that nice and cheap DETOLF cabinet (damn heavy though). Only has three glass plates in it, pluss the space at the very bottom. Glass door has about 5mm openings around where dust potentially will find its way in (maybe I can buy some filler tape or something to cover the gaps). Internal width is 38,5 cm Internal diagonal width is 46cm at best, 49 cm at worst (depends how the model fits towards the corners and the vertical metal frame that is located somewhere in the corner area). Internal depth is 33,5 cm Some people have modded their DETOLF case, placing more glass shelves in it. The simplest solution I saw was to apply four metal clamps for the glass plate to rest on.

From the images shown above, there appear to be a running gap between the two halves of the aircraft (black stripe). Is this use of a gap due to having chosen a vacuum formed kit, or could this be a "sanding trick" for achieving a perfectly sanded surface with a model?

I will want to get some of that Vallejo filler/putty. My Tamiya putty tube has a big opening that makes it less practical for applying it directly onto the models I have. Any reason you wanted to model the Spitfire I/II as opposed to say V or IX?

I suspect that the torpedo tail seen in image no 6 is a german torpedo. Hmm an electric torpedo I think.

If the end result looks nice, then one could take some digital photos of the model, and then start enhancing the images with image editing software and thus any mistakes would vanish.

I like it alot. I am wondering how the numerous cabin windows came about. Are they perhaps made with some kind of "glass" fluid?

It's not that I am helpless in trying to evaluate if this lamp below is useful, but I still want to try getting some feedback before buying this. Alternatively I should try find some more suitable tool that can provide both magnification and lighting. Also, to be honest I am not sure what to expect from the magnifying glass here. I like how this thing is small compared to a lamp one can swing about around on the table, but suspect it's small size might be a hazzle in some situations. According to product description, this lamp seem to be 40 cm tall, with a 10cm diameter large magnifying glass. According to the description, this product comes with: 3 x diopter (approx. x1.75 magnification) 12 x diopter (approx. x4 magnification) Not sure what to expect from the various diopters, product description is vague. I guess the small lid shown in the photo is there to keep dust away. It looks as if the part with the magnifying glass can be rotated sideways as well as up and down.

I incidentally fiddled with some plastic kit part I had painted with Humbrol 53 Gunmetal, and I noticed the surfaced got an overall shine after rubbing it with a post it sticker. I am aware there are at least one special metallic Humbrol paint that is meant to be rubbed to get a quite distinct metallic shine (I forgot the particular color number, not 53 anyway), but since the gunmetal look so matt and turns into something shiny when rubbing it, I now wonder if perhaps polishing the painted surface is some known trick. Edit: I imagine that a more gentle swab with a piece of cloth might perhaps lead to the surface look slightly shiny and not as shiny as when I rubbed it with a post it sticker (plain paper).

If I may intrude with a question here, I want to ask, what purpuse does it serve to first having applied a dark or black color beneath the silver/metal color? Could it be in order to try achieving different hues of shiny metallic? (Instead of buying different bottles of aluminum/silver paint.)

I like how the silver/aluminium colored surface looks here. Is that metallic finish a result of airbrushing? Some weathering on this model would be in order with such a nice model imo. I have seen how people add some grime with pastels/oils or something (wiped away with a cloth), to get the panel lines to look a little darker without overdoing it. I do not know what would be accurate for the spinner, but imagine that a chrome look would be more suitable than the silverish one.