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About oileanach

  • Birthday 08/11/1967

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    Modelling, (yeah, I know), motorcycles, history.

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  1. You're welcome mate! I think the whole site is a little quiet these days, not just individual parts of it. I can't speak for anyone else, but I love the GW stuff, it's great to see how different modelers envision their kits and the results of that can be amazing. But I lurk on the sci-fi section as well. Feel free to post up your next project there- I'm loking forward to it, I'm sure the rest of the guys are too!
  2. Thank you! (Engages 'quietly chuffed' mode...)
  3. Gather around, fellow modellers and hear my tale of woe. Work has been manic, ever changing and mainly from home since the batflu struck. No furlough for my mother's eldest! Family matters have been piling more stress on. It's been a long, miserable year and it's about to step up a gear as our customers return. I know, First World problems... I decided to snap myself out of it. I've rebuilt the back brake on my bike, had the fork seals renewed and tidied her up cosmetically. She's MOT'd and I am, once again, a greasy biker type. This makes me very happy. Still, I'm rusty as and the old girl terrifies me now. I needed something to calm me down. That's when I saw the old Dark Vengeance box sitting on the shelf of shame. Weren't there some bikes in there? I went a little bit old school with these. Out of the box paintwork, right down to the edge highlights GW love so much, very light weathering and just a wee dusting of pigments. As always, my photography sucks! Extra bad this time around, as my software's on the blink. No Luminar magic wand today, just what I get out of the body. Apologies in advance... Thanks for watching.
  4. Hey Dave, don't be in such a rush- that camo is spot on! It looks just like my mtp trousers. I'd be more than happy with that result. If you were trying to get closer to the US OCP, it's less broken up- so there are fewer dark brown areas. That's why you can see American squaddies, but our lads are invisible at the same distance! Joking aside, most people can't tell the difference. That's a really impressive result you've achieved there.
  5. That's fantastic work, PC. I feel your pain, most of my W30K collection is resin. Dreadnoughts are bad enough, something that size must have been an absolute pita to build! I love the whole look of it, properly battered! I've got the TG anthem playing through my head now though. Here, right back atcha:
  6. I love it, Will. Beautifully painted and such a cheerful subject!
  7. Still better than mine with a DSLR and a lens that cost more than my first motorcycle! It's looking good, Will.
  8. Hi Rodders. Have you tried following along with youtube videos? Duncan Rhodes is brilliant at explaining things so clearly even I can understand them. linky Darren Latham is one of the top blokes at Games Workshop. His series is very advanced ('Eavy Metal style, if that means anything to you?) but the techniques he uses are very simple. He's just insanely good at applying them! 'nother link Both of those fellahs are working on 28mm minis- approximately 1/58 scale. It should be a little easier to achieve similar results on something almost twice the size. Emil- 'Squidmar'- is a miniature painter from Sweden who just happens to be a professional photographer. His approach is very different to the Brits, in that he's interested in the way light works, rather than concentrating on how to lay paint down. He likes to talk about 'volumes'. But again, the approach is simple enough, it just takes practice and a little skill to apply. yet another link Good luck. Don't forget to post up pics when you're happy with your progress!
  9. Yep, love 'em. I'm not a big fan of the GW studio style either. Those fellahs are spot on!
  10. Dads are like that. Mine slung hundreds of pounds worth of role playing games and supplements, hundreds of pages of notes and home made campaign material and a small mountain of scale models- my lifetime collection- about a nanosecond after I joined the armed forces. He kept threadbare clothes that didn't fit even before I joined up and a few dozen tins of enamel paint, though...
  11. That's a brilliant job. The chapter are Raven Guard, sneaky types a bit like modern SF, rather than the usual techno Romans, sci fi Vikings and the like... You're not kidding about the price. Most of my RG were even worse- they're a bit niche, so I have far too much Forge World resin in my cabinet and stash. Card is definitely the way to go!
  12. Amazing work! Absolutely barking, but amazing...
  13. The one you like best! I mainly paint 28mm minis with water based acrylics to a tabletop standard. (Good enough at arm's length). Smallish watercolour brushes in sable are ideal. Most manufacturer's size 1 is best for me. With a (1/35) face twice the size I'd probably use a size 2. The point is just as good and a bigger brush holds more paint, allowing more time working on the subject. Here's a squad I finished last month: I mainly used Rosemary brushes- the Series 22 'designer' and 441 'half rigger', both size 1s. I've been trying to decide what kind of brush suits me best, or whether I can even tell the difference. I was happy with the result, even after drowning them in varnish (they're getting used as gaming pieces, they need some protection!). If you're looking for new brushes I can heartily recommend Rosemary and Co's own site: linky or Ken Bromley: link for more variety and terrific prices. Let us know how you get on?
  14. Like Dads suggested, you could try a different skin tone set. I mainly use Vallejo paints and their Model Color (sic) 'Faces Painting Set' even comes with a handy 'how to' guide for reference. I tend to buy my paint from these guys: https://www.snmstuff.co.uk/product-category/vallejo-products/vallejo-products-vallejo-model-color-sets/ I don't use any retarder, but I do use very thin paint. I live in a 'soft' water area, so just tap water, but if you have issues with chalky water their thinners are excellent, too. Loving the build so far.
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