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About louiex2

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 06/14/1954

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  • Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
  • Interests
    WW2 Allied aircraft & soft skin vehs;1/24-25 cars

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  1. On our side of the pond, I’d recommend Weller or Hako. Weller has been around forever and has a wide range of soldering irons and stations. Hako is a favorite in electronics industry (aka Silicon Valley) but is more expensive than Weller. Also check out some of the model railroad websites- every serious model railroader has at least one or two soldering irons/stations. (My favourite site is Model Raiload Hobbyist- https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com) Lou in California
  2. I've had two Molotow chrome pens for almost two years, stored horizontally in a drawer in the workbench, and I have not had any issues. I only use them occasionally but have found if they haven't been used for a while, I may have to vigorously shake them 1-2 minutes to get a good, shiny chrome paint to come out. I presume the shiny bits separate from the carrier, but that is just a guess. You might try one posting either at the BM Figures forum or one of the many other figure painting web forums or even a drawing forum - those folks use the Molotow pens all the time and might have a solution. Graffiti artists love them too, but I'm not certain you want to hangout late at night in some dark street with a pristine wall while they tag it. Lou in Idaho
  3. Hannants has the Heller CV-15 (Traction Avant) listed in stock. Lou in Idaho
  4. louiex2

    Willys jeep ambulance

    Das is correct, I haven’t found any reference for an official kit issued for WW2 litter/ambulance Jeeps. The frames were field improvised by the medical corpsmen using whatever they could scrounge up. While the US Army Chief Surgeon did have drawings distributed to help there were many other drawings floating around. Here’s a link with everything you ever want to know about WW2 Army litters- scroll to the bottom or the Jeep litter frames: https://www.med-dept.com/articles/ww2-us-army-litters/ There are dozens of photos of litter Jeeps on the internet than will help. Lou in Idaho
  5. You should be able to find Weetabix at your local Jewel-Osco. If it isn’t in the cereal aisle it should be in the hardware section- either by the knife sharpening stones and sanding blocks or by the rat poisons. Lou in Idaho
  6. WHDH TV reported six people were taken to the hospital. FlightAware shows it took off from Bradley International and then turned around after only 5 minutes in the air.
  7. @Shin- Thank you for pointing this out and the reminder. You are absolutely correct, never use MMP poly with the MMP primer- bad things happen including spending an hour or so cleaning the airbrush. Don’t ask how I know... Lou in Idaho.
  8. Tamiya Extra Thin has been my preferred glue for years. As been mentioned above, it works best as capillary cement as it evaporates too fast to put on two parts and then put them together. However, I never use the included cap brush. Instead I have several dedicated liquid glue brushes- one is a 5/0, another 10/0 and one is a very old with about 5-6 hairs left on it for very fine work. A little Extra Thin goes a long way. Lou
  9. My guess is too much thinner and too much air. I know this seems to go against much of what we have all learned about airbrushing model paints, but Mission Model Paints are a whole new kettle of fish. It’s good that you used their thinner* but try starting with only 10% thinner which sounds like too little but it works. (Sometimes I need to add a bit more thinner but have never gone above 20% for airbrushing.) Lowering the pressure to 10-15 psi should also help. Also, did you use their poly additive? Good stuff and makes the paint almost bulletproof once it had completely dried. For those who are new to Mission Model Paints (MMP) , I have used them for a couple of years and they are excellent for both hand brushing and airbrushing. However, they are different to work with than “traditional” model paints and take some getting used to. It’s not a steep learning curve, but, especially when using MMP for airbrushing, you have to throw out a lot of what you already “know” about working with model paints. The MMP website FAQs is a good starting place to learn how to use their paint: https://www.missionmodelsus.com/pages/tips-and-tricks-faq MMP and Vallejo are now my go to paints, with Tamiya then Model Master not too far behind. However, I’m across the pond so Humbrol and other popular UK paint brands are hard to find, at least in my area. Lou in Idaho *You can thin MMP with distilled water but other types and brands of thinners do not work well with MMP and some do not work at all though it looks like they have mixed in. Using IPA or windscreen cleaners (any cleaner with ammonia) as a thinner will not work at all with MMP, however, they are very good at stripping MMP.
  10. I would post this in the BM Airbrush section. Also, take a look at the other postings in that section- hardly a week goes by without a question about getting a starter airbrush and compressor. You just need a basic airbrush and, as Das-Abteilung said, there is a lot of a snobbery as to which one is best. I’m in the US and have two Paasche Model H’s for the basic work (my “new” one is 20 years old) and a Badger Krome for detail work. I do recommend you invest in a decent compressor. You can upgrade the airbrush later as you get better using it, but good compressor will last you for years. Lou in Idaho
  11. The 1942 Ford Fordor was available in 11 interior colors- including biege, four shade of tan, gunmetal blue, brown, and blue-gray, so it could be any of those colors, but tan appears to be the most common. Keep in mind, in early 1942 all US automotive manufacturers’ inventory was turned over to the U.S. Government for military or government (national, state or local) use and few automobiles, if any, built were after that date and they would only have been for the military. AFAIK Ford did not built any passenger cars during the war as their facilities were converted for war production. For example Ford’s Willow Run palnt was converted to build B-24 bombers and five of their other plants built Jeeps. Lou in Utah
  12. Archer Transfers might have something that would work if you’re looking for surface details- http://www.archertransfers.com/ @Das Abteilung- While the folks at Grandt Line are retiring, the good news is their line of products has been purchased by The San Juan Model Co. in Colorado. The transfer is in process and I would guess they be back in at least partial production before the end of the year. https://www.grandtline.com/ Lou in Utah
  13. Hannants list it as a future release. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TU01683
  14. Be sure to use the correct primer before applying the automotive paint, otherwise the paint may destroy the styrene. Lou in Utah
  15. Sorry I’m a bit late to the party but I just found your thread. Excellent work, especially all the detail. I’m not certain how UK/European fire appliances (aka “apparatus’ here in the USA) but here most of the equipment in the storage bays sit on trays that slide out or, if they are too high, they slide out and drop down. Keep up the great work. Lou in Utah
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