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About louiex2

  • Birthday 06/14/1954

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  • Location
    Sacramento, California, USA
  • Interests
    WW2 Allied aircraft & soft skin veh; 1/24-25 cars

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  1. Sorry I’m late to the party. To answer your original question, Tamiya 74123 side cutters are thinner, have a longer taper and have a bit more curve than the 74035. I have a a Xuron sprue cutter that I like for general use but as so many of the new kits have a lot more small parts on the spruce I will probably get a 74123 for the more delicate work. Lou in California
  2. @dogsbody Chris- You are correct. Thank you for pointing out the confusion; I should have clarified the link was to the main Ottlite UK website, however Ottlite does make a magnifier version. - I've update the post. Your magnifying swing arm looks like the same one I use (and have had for about 30 years.) Last time the incandescent bulb died, I replaced it with an LED bulb- what a difference. Lou in California
  3. If you want the best- one word: Ottlite. https://products.ottlite.com/c-192-craft-and-sewing-magnifiers.aspx Update- I've corrected the link to the actual magnifier pages of the Ottlite UK page instead of the main page. Scroll down the page to find the gooseneck clip-on one. Lou in California
  4. You might try jewelers abrasive cord. It comes in several diameters and grits. On our side of the pond Micro Mark carries it but you may be able to find it at a store that specializes in handmade jewelry. Lou in California
  5. “And now for something completely different...” Outstanding work- the model belongs in a museum. I really enjoyed the history and backstory. Thank you for sharing Lou in California
  6. Badger makes at 1/4 oz. (7ml) color cup that should fit the 200 series- part #50-0483. I'm across the pond so I'm not sure about UK stockists- you might try airbrushes.com Lou in California
  7. Amazing work. I enjoyed the WIP thread. Lou in California
  8. Detail Master makes photo-etched hinges in 1/24th scale. https://www.detailmaster.com/search?type=product&q=NOT+tag%3A__gift+AND+hinges* Lou in California
  9. I don't recall when I read the tip (may have been here on BM) but Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is almost the exact same formula as Tamiya Extra Thin. I gave it a try and Airbrush Cleaner glues styrene just fine. The only difference I can see is that Airbrush Cleaner has a slight yellowish tint and the Extra Thin is clear. Here, across the pond, Extra Thin is about $6 USD for 40ml and Airbrush Cleaner about $8 for 250 ml. That's 3¢ vs. 15¢ per ml and I'm not sure having a bottle cap with a brush is worth 12¢ extra per ml. Besides, I have two dedicated brushes I use for applying liquid glue. Lou in California.
  10. As far as drying time, John Miller recommended using a hair dryer to speed the drying time before respraying. I've tried this and it works a treat. Be sure to set the hair dryer to the lowest heat setting and keep the dryer moving. Once I am completely done with painting, let the model sit for several days to make certain all the layers have "gassed out" before handing, but I think most modelers do this anyway. As far as colours, it is easy to mix custom MMP shades. Just keep track of the ratios and don't forget the amount of Poly and thinner. Once I find a colour mix I like, I write it down in a notebook and also on the instruction sheet. Please keep us posted on your results. Lou in California
  11. I've been using Mission Model Paints for several years. I love using them and they are my go to paint, followed by Vallejo then Tamiya. I can't add much to what @Shin has recommended and it is good that you are following their directions. I have heard too many complaints about MMP from people who try to use them the way they use other hobby paints and that approach will not work work with MMP. You almost have to ignore much of what you "know" about using model paints in general as MMPs are a very different formula. MMP take some time and experimentation to find what works for you. The Poly will help and especially when using an airbrush, MMP seems to be sensitive to humidity. I was living in Arizona when I first started using MMP, then moved to Utah, then Idaho and am now in California. In each location I had to tweak my ratios a bit to find out what worked best. Also, as Shin mentioned, the ratios can vary with the paint color. I'd suggest keeping a notebook or list of the ratios as you try them and with a bit of experimentation you will find what works. Keep trying, especially once you get the Poly, and after you learn to work with them you will not go back. John Miller at Model Paint Solutions is friends with Jon Timken, the founder of Mission Model Paints, so he has a lot of good insight to MMP and has posted some great videos at the MPS website on using the paint. Finally, a note of caution about the Poly additive. Store it in the refrigerator if you are not going to be using it for more than a few days and it will keep much longer. If subject to big swings in temperature, it will thicken and become unusable. For more details on this phenomena, just do a web search. Lou in California
  12. Here's on of the best tutorials I've ever come across about getting a gloss finish on a model car from BM's own @cmatthewbacon Lou in California
  13. Just found this WIP and what a great build. Thank you for sharing how you are fabricating all of the detail parts. I love the way you did the plaid seats. To answer @johnlambert about Chrysler muscle car orange engine colours, it is a bit confusing. "Street Hemi orange" was only used on high performance engines (383, 426 and 440) from 1966-71 and the 1970-71 340. Earlier, a different orange, "Race Hemi orange," was used on the 1962-64 Max Wedge 413 and 426 and on the 1964-65 Race Hemi 426. Lou in California.
  14. Very nice review. I love my Badger Krome and internally it is the same as the Sotar 20/20 and they use the same nozzles. I use it primarily for detail work. The nozzle size and guard are an easy fix- Badger make a 0.5 mm nozzle and also a two prong metal tip guard that will fit if damaging the needle is a concern. I’m not sure I understand your comment about the cut away on the cup. Lou in California
  15. Both Gravity Colors USA* and Zero Paints make Land Rover paints colours for the Series III. For Pastel Green in Gravity Colors USA it is #GC-1192 and for Zero Paints it is ZP-1600HCD. Both are airbrush only and Zero Paints require a gloss clear coat. I'm guessing Tamiya and Vallejo have something that would give you a close starting point. Lou in California *Gravity Colors (Europe) is a different company, but for my mates across the pond, they also have Land Rover paints- Pastel Green is CG-1197.
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