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Peter Lloyd

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About Peter Lloyd

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    Obsessed Member

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    Male
  • Location
    Deloraine, Tasmania or Arras, France. Depends where the sun is.

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  1. I think this being Britmodeller we must be ready to assume sarcasm! Now, this week I would like to request more variations on the Sabre, an early slatted wing version, and an Avon. Following my success in buying the tricky AZ Model MiG-17 (now announced by Airfix), I have procured the High Planes conversion and a Fujimi base kit, so it should be a matter of time. Come on Airfix, don't make me build them.
  2. I use Gunze Levelling Thinner quite a lot. It can thin Mr Surfacer, but it's rather mild for that and I often just use lacquer thinner, which in my workshop is car carburettor/injector cleaner in a spray can (you can thank me from the chemotherapy ward later). A good use for Levelling thinner is to thin putty. I use Tamiya white putty, it can be thinned on the palette to make a paste. Or, apply the putty to the seam, then you dip a cotton swab in Levelling Thinner and rub it back, it saves a lot of sanding and it ensures a good bond between the putty and the model. Mr Levelling Thinner will melt plastic eventually, so be careful if you're using a type of plastic you're not used to: it's quite vicious on Roden and Pavla plastic. I don't use it to thin Aqueous Hobby Color, I just use rubbing alcohol for that.
  3. Ah, Hasegawa's 'modular' period! Four- and six-part fuselages everywhere!
  4. True that. I have built the Polikarpov I-190, Yak-9 and the Er-2, all were a similar experience to this kit: work methodically, use some filler, and maybe add a bit of detail here and there and come out with a great model of a rare subject. A-Model are to be applauded for their vast output and for covering so many variants within a type.
  5. Peter's Supermarine Attacker, build thread is here.
  6. Great results on both builds, and I love the concept of the 'first and last' naval fighters by the premiere British manufacturers.
  7. Wheels by Armoury. The originals are quite presentable but these are amazing, with accurate directional tread. The decals were typical of A-Model: thin, a bit delicate, but they behave well. The black lines for demarcation of the blue-painted nose section fell apart and I'd say are impossible, but everything else was okay. They don't respond to Micro Set or Mr Mark Softer, so might benefit from rolling with a Q-tip dampened with hot water, to snuggle them into panel lines. They also don't have much 'glue', so they adhere only weakly and need to be put in place as soon as possible after they loosen from the backing paper. But, good colours and register, lots of stencils and small markings. It was a common sheet for all the A-Model Yak-25 family so I have a few spare Soviet numbers for the stash. There are some compromises associated with rushing and my own low standards, but I have a pretty good replica of an unusual aircraft. I coimpliment A-Model... this is the third A-Model kit I've made and they have all been consistent: they look a bit scary and crude at first opening of the box, but the parts themselves are lovely and the model does build up successfully... just be prepared to use some filler. The extremely faint rendition of the panel lines is really good: on a NMF 50s jet, deep panel lines look really out of place, then these are better than any mainstream kit for depth, and they are acceptably consistent. I'm no expert on anything, but the shape of the model looked good to me, except a minor issue with the wing tip fairings which I think should taper not to a point, but should be flattened on top. The landing gear doors are quite thick, though they were box sections so this might not be so bad. Here it is 'finished', obviously needing some touch ups (where did that top point of the star on the fin go? It was there last I looked!). This completes my four for the group build. I massive thank you to the moderators, to all who looked, and to those who also built for this one: I didn't get to comment on everyone's thread but I have followed them as best I could and there is much to inspire here, and it's such an interesting time in aviation.
  8. I probably should have left it, but added a wash to bring out the panel lines. Perhaps because the top clear coat only had a cold day to set, the wash has rendered it sticky and the porous decals have absorbed it a bit. But, I'm calling this one done, and in the nick of time. Gallery pictures soon. So, in the end it's an AZ Models kit, which I recommend. Not their best but very buildable, and actually quite simple given there's no props or struts or anything tricky. Master brass cannon fairings. Mark I Models vac canopy (because I lost the original). Xtracrylix paints. A huge thanks you to the moderators of this group build, to those who have followed and/or posted here, and to my lovely lady for accepting that 'having to get this model done in time for the group build deadline' is a legitimate excuse for not going for a walk in the sun.
  9. I read this recently in a Bill Gunston book, but I haven't quite been able to find exactly where... I wasn't thinking of building the Shooting Star then!
  10. A bit of Extra Dark Sea Grey sprayed over a rudimentary stencil to eliminate that white edge. I made a bit of a mess of the underside, in particular I dipped the port wing markings before I cut them! These numbers seem a little large relative to the (very comprehensive) Modeldecal instructions. Wheel well colour seems to be either medium green (a Supermarine thing) or sky? But not aluminium as the destructions say. I hope my result is nearly as good as yours, I'll be happy. It was very cool having you to beat the path for me on this one!
  11. Sword decals are about the best in the business, which is useful on this finish as I'm not doing the layers of gloss coat to sandwich the decal. I couldn't quite make the nose stripe come together on the top, but it shouldn't be too hard to fix. I'm not sure what if any work I will do to accentuate the panel lines.... it actually looks quite authentic as it is (the nature of the finish that is, the model of course has compromises). I'm really happy with this bright finish on the F-80... because the plane is all complex curves, the shininess adds something.
  12. Ha ha, I have the SR53, that was one I leapt on when it came out. It won't be getting done this year, but perhaps we can meet in an appropriate future Group Build and share the pain adventure! Blessed with the same aerodynamic noggin, I've been using a hairdryer my big sister passed down to me for modelmaking back in 1987! I have, however, found better success with the boiling water method than hot air. You can apply the heat fairly precisely by running the water over the wing, and it heats the plastic right through, with no danger of going too far.
  13. I was originally going to do this model up from the AZ Models-provided scheme, which in this kit offers the prototype or one of the earliest service aircraft. AZ Models decals in my experience are very nice, but in the end I went another way. These markings come from this sheet from Modeldecal. These are hardly the last word in decal quality, I suspect they are many years old, and the Bog H sell them very cheaply. I was half expecting them to not work, break up, or refuse to leave the backing paper. They are slightly off-register, vaguely yellowed, the blue is a little brighter than I think is correct, and viewed under magnification the edges bleed away a little. BUT, enough of the bad stuff: Modeldecal offer a nice selection of schemes for the neglected postwar period, each sheet offering an eclectic selection with stencils and a sheet of photographs. I could have used the national markings from the AZ sheet, and I'd perhaps suggest this approach as the register issues are only apparent on the roundels. And the decals went on really nicely. You have to be a little careful, once they break away from the backing sheet (about 2 minutes in cold water), they have to be placed fairly quickly, as the glue disappears altogether. The glue 'flaked' a little, producing little white flecks like PVA glue, but I ignored these and they did not affect the result. The markings responded very well to MicroSol and look very flat, conforming well.
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