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Peter Lloyd

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About Peter Lloyd

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    Obsessed Member

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    Deloraine, Tasmania or Arras, France. Depends where the sun is.

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  1. Accurate Armour set a high standard at the time- at a price. It's really depressing that the country that invented the tank only built one good one- a really good one... too late for WW2 service. Not for nothing did David Fletcher call his book The Great Tank Scandal.
  2. Possibly the best execution of the 'chipping' technique I have ever seen. Thanks for your excellent explanation.
  3. Peter's Ju-87A, Special Hobby 1/72 scale kit. Build thread is HERE
  4. Hello again. This beastie is finished and up in the gallery. Today involved lots of fitting of the detail parts, so not really any new photos. These included: The defensive MG- with PE sights, a little overscale being plastic and perhaps an aftermarket MG15 or barrel would do justice to the finesse of the kit. PE dive brakes,- I ignored the etch mounts and made some plastic ones. The pitot- SH give you two plastic pieces and a small PE part, I thinned down the supplied main tube, and used stretched sprue for the rest. Tailwheel, bomb cradle and underside window. The bomb cradle is rather overscale, the underside window fitted well with just a little reduction on all sides. Fitting it afterward, it had to be a near perfect 'drop in' fit and this was not too hard to achieve. The Fowler flaps. I'll leave some notes here because these are a huge source of potential problems. What I did was to assemble all the rods, hinges and balance weights onto the flaps, paint them, and add them at the end. This worked but I was lucky: the surfaces to actually make the connection are of course tiny. On the upper surface of the flaps are small hinges which serve to 'hook' the flaps onto the trailing edge of the upper wing. The actuating rods 'wedged' onto the lower surface of the wing and, at the cost of blemishes on the paint, held it all in place. Unfortunately, my balance weights are at the wrong angle so they touch the lower wing, too. What I'd suggest you do is cement some very fine wire between the wings, pointing rearward, in line with the upper wing hinges, to reinforce the join, and attach the rods and balance weights afterwards. Alternatively, use the hinges to affix the flaps onto the wing- albeit you will have only tiny contacting surfaces- and fix the rods and balance weights after that. It is all so delicate that even touching up the paint with the airbrush will be dangerous. There is a real trade-off to be made here, because once assembled the flaps are very delicate, and they were in fact the very last thing I fitted apart from the aerials. In the final stages, there are bits sticking out everywhere on this plane, waiting to be knocked off. This is the trade-off: the Special Hobby Stuka is far better detailed and more convincing than the Airfix or Fujimi models. But the small and delicate parts are a real test of patience, eyesight and steadiness-of-hand. One could drill out the exhausts, and in photos the props look to be a pale colour (RLM02?) rather than RLM70. I left a few parts off as well. But, overall I am happy, I have found I have to compromise to actually get models finished and continue enjoying the hobby. A big thanks to all who read this and the moderators.
  5. Another stunning bomber Neil, and you make it seem so easy. Please consider my hat well and truly doffed.
  6. I especially like well-known aircraft in unexpected schemes. The Spit XVI is so graceful but it's a shame they usually clipped the wings on them.
  7. I thought I might leave this here: Fred Gassit was an anarchist cartoon character who appeared each fortnight in Australian Motorcycle News for many years. It is not entirely pee-cee, and all the Gassits were put up on the net by their author, who was inspired by a mixture of Commando comics and 'People' magazine.
  8. Great build and your 'beginners mistakes' are ones I make on almost every build. I'm glad you didn't do Rudel's plane*: having read his biography he was, unquestionably, one of the great warriors of WW2. But also an unlikeable unrepentant Nazi. But, I suppose not many great fighting soldiers were cut out for decency or thinking. Quite fitting he flew Stukas, along with the MP40 and the Tiger tank, one of those really emblematic weapons of Hitler's war machine. (* Not that building a model implies anything resembling approval, of course.)
  9. Well done, the epitome of the Stuka and I am jealous of your skills with the brush.
  10. Hello again and thanks for looking. Perhaps the trickiest part of this model is assembly of the Fowler flaps, with three struts and two balance weights per side. They are fine mouldings though necessarily over-scale, and in the interests of strength [and laziness] I did not reduce them. The instructions only gesture at where these actually go, there is a scrap view indicating the balance weight location. There are very fine indications on the surface of the model and the flaps showing the attachment points. These will be left off until the end as they will be extremely delicate. After an application of Xtracrylix clear gloss. Rarely does this produce a good gloss surface for me but it is very tough, and can be buffed a little to produce a smooth surface. The decals are by Aviprint and are typical Special Hobby: thin, strong, glossy. I do not cut close on the assumption that the 'factory' edge is easier to hide under gloss coats. After a pin wash with an enamel/oil paint mix, dissolved in a turpentine/white spirit blend. There is also some post shading here. I always overdo the post shading but I'm getting better. I obviously haven't eliminated the seam work on the cowling and might have to revisit this. Most photos of Condor Legion Ju-87s show quite immaculate aircraft, but given their work rate in the final year of so of the war they must have got pretty dirty.
  11. Scholars and gentlemen here for sure. If can't get the fuselage and bomb bay doors resolved to my fairly low standards, I might break open one of my Revell kits and put the wings on that. Not giving up just yet. Many thanks for everyone's interest so far.
  12. I had a good look at your build before I opened the box, Neil, and will be relying on your advice to save many dramas. My kit seems to be identical to yours in all respects, and I will tackle the undercarriage in a similar way. I am firming up to the idea of modelling L7284, EM-D. Although promiscuously photographed, I am yet to see a photo conclusively showing the tailplane, but all evidence is it was the narrower version and it is within the first batch. Lacking the mid-upper turret, Robert Kirby's research suggests a wooden fairing was made to cover the position. This will give me a model with many points of difference to the Lancaster and a distinctly 'early war' impression. My questionable wing joints have resulted in an asymmetric dihedral. Airfix's warped fuselage has resulted in my machine going down by the port and requiring some counter-flooding to keep her afloat. For this I poured boiling water over the rear fuse and twisted it like wringing out a wrag. A pretty inadequate method but I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do. The wing was simply broken and the gap filled with super glue. There is no spar or anything, my attempt to use them just inhibited making the best join I could. But with epoxy glue and a large gluing area, the join is pretty strong, even allowing for this butchery.
  13. Speaking of colours, I will be using Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous. RLM 61 will be a mix of Tamiya XF64 'Red Brown' and Gunze M66 'RLM 79'; RLM 62 will be Tamiya XF65 'Field Grey'; RLM 63 will be depicted with Tamiya XF25 'Light Sea Grey'. The canopy is typical Special Hobby, thin and clear with matte, subtle framing. There is a sort of mould line around the top of the 'tub' it fits onto, which I mostly left in place. Some slight scraping was necessary to get the canopy to sit down, material being removed in the areas shown by the arrows. I had to apply some pressure while the cement dried. I could have done a little more scraping and got it to sit, but I decided this way was just as easy. Arrows indicate the direction of the pressure. A few minutes like this singing a hand-washing song to myself and it is done. I didn't quite get the canopy centred so there is a step on the port side- I only really noticed this in these photos. No masking kit for this, but most masks are just rectangles so I had it masked up in about an hour. I had to pull out the rear mount for the MG-15, and work out what small parts to leave off. You can see some Mr Surfacer brushed on to highlight where the seams need more work, On to painting next.
  14. Some sort of trick of the light Cliff, no paint on this one yet.
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