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Peter Lloyd

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About Peter Lloyd

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    Obsessed Member

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    Deloraine, Tasmania or Arras, France. Depends where the sun is.

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  1. My father served in Lancasters, but I've already modelled his aircraft... though I could do another. Postwar, he was an air traffic controller at RAAF Williamtown, NSW, where he much resented the antics and irreverence of the fighter squadrons based there. My great uncle was killed at Bullecourt in 1917, I'd like to do a World War One diorama but I'm not so sure the circumstances lend themselves to a very attractive modelling subject.
  2. Bumpity... no love for this Great War classic?
  3. Good progress mate. I'm not sure you'll need those bombs- they're guided bombs used for shipping attacks when the launch plane would have a clear shot at the target in daylight. I'm away from my books, but the Germans did a lot of night bombing of the Allied positions and ships around Normandy and I'd be very surprised if they didn't call on their He177s.
  4. The Airfix Mosquito still looks pretty good I think. Being wooden, the panel line issue isn't really important and the shape is good.
  5. I imagine you building this kit with your eyes closed. It will be good to see this one done, I have read quite a lot about Roland Beaumont's amazing postwar career in the last few months.
  6. It does look excellent, you really nailed the mottling, it looks better than many of my best efforts with the airbrush.
  7. Hey mate, sorry I have come late. A few words of warning on this kit: the AFV Club track kit might not give you enough extra links to make a full run for the Sherman V. The sprockets on this model are set too high, with the result that there is not enough clearance between the top of the sprocket and the horizontal part of the hull for the link to fit. At least this was my experience when trying to build this kit for a Market-Garden diorama. I suggest make a paper or foil band so you have a template of the track length required. Leave off the drive sprocket to check for any issues: it might be useful to drill in a new axle a little lower, but beyond a couple of millimetres it will look odd. I hope this info proves useful.
  8. I think the 'studio' appearance of the image is, as you said, because of the clarity and depth of field rather than just the tidy-ness of everything. It's good to see this one coming along. In my yoof I made many dioramas but I lack the courage these days. If you add some defenders perhaps you could consider the Dragon kit of Osttruppen surrendering? Of course I'm sure you have everything in hand for a great result.
  9. Pete's F-80 Shooting Star, Sword 1/72. Build thread is here.
  10. Thanks everyone! I am just about to put this in the gallery: as I departed home for a stint of work overseas I didn't bring images of thee rest of the build, but it was really just adding detail parts and trying not to ruin things by handling and dropping the model. Apart from some pain around the air intakes and the need to carefully fettle the resin wheel well pieces, it's a good kit. But the qualification is a big one: you need a third and fourth hand to hold everything in place to see whether it will close up around those resin parts, it's very hard to test fit, and it might even be worth trying white glue or something for temporary assembly. In the end my nose gear well is too deep and I couldn't pull it back flush, so I left it. I also lose the nose gear lights so they are not on the final model (yet).
  11. I think this being Britmodeller we must be ready to assume sarcasm! Now, this week I would like to request more variations on the Sabre, an early slatted wing version, and an Avon. Following my success in buying the tricky AZ Model MiG-17 (now announced by Airfix), I have procured the High Planes conversion and a Fujimi base kit, so it should be a matter of time. Come on Airfix, don't make me build them.
  12. I use Gunze Levelling Thinner quite a lot. It can thin Mr Surfacer, but it's rather mild for that and I often just use lacquer thinner, which in my workshop is car carburettor/injector cleaner in a spray can (you can thank me from the chemotherapy ward later). A good use for Levelling thinner is to thin putty. I use Tamiya white putty, it can be thinned on the palette to make a paste. Or, apply the putty to the seam, then you dip a cotton swab in Levelling Thinner and rub it back, it saves a lot of sanding and it ensures a good bond between the putty and the model. Mr Levelling Thinner will melt plastic eventually, so be careful if you're using a type of plastic you're not used to: it's quite vicious on Roden and Pavla plastic. I don't use it to thin Aqueous Hobby Color, I just use rubbing alcohol for that.
  13. Ah, Hasegawa's 'modular' period! Four- and six-part fuselages everywhere!
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