From my experience working with PU resin, the sweating could happen even when it's not expired yet, it's when you don't thoroughly shake and mix the Polyol part of the resin (usually the clear liquid part) before mixing both parts together. The polyol part over time separates into an oily liquid at the bottom and a more watery liquid at the top, from a paper thin watery film on top after a couple weeks to 10% of the volume after a few months. Depending on how much they've separated and how much of the watery liquid at the top you've poured out into the resin mix, this messes up the ratio of the chemicals in the Polyol part, from too much to a little it'll either never cure, leave a crumbly mess, sweating right after demolding or sweating time later. OTOH when the clear polyol part has separated too much and for too long (like a year) it's when 'it expires' and no matter how much you shake and mix it back, it'll end with a mess in your resin. That's why the containers advise you to shake and mix well before using and make a habit of shaking it once in a while. Also the isocyanate part (yellow/amber/brown colored liquid) tends to absorb humidity and crystallizes, humidity is the cause of PU resin bubbling and leaving bubbles and pin holes. That's why they recommend you to squirt some can compressed air before you close the container to protect and extend the shelf life of that part. Smooth-on brand sells you their canned air for like $20 for 10 oz, but it's robbery, when the gas is simply tetrafluoroethane the same for a lot of can compressed air used to dust/clean electronics and sell for half the price $10 and twice as much content, 20 oz.