Cheshiretaurus

Thanks Doug have HU90 in the paint draw, Think that will be done for the morning. ill waggle a dry brush of black in there afterwards too.

Thanks WIP I'll give that a bash over the next few days

Thanks for the comments and suggestions A wood effect stand would look good, was one of the options that crossed my mind. I just need to learn how to do it, Anyone know any good on-line tutorials? Also I think I need to get some green in that cockpit too Mark

This is my first presentation to the RFI forum, An AIrfix S6B another one started as a teenager in the late 80s and completed bit by bit in the last 12 months. The cockpit has been moved rewards by a few millimetres in accordance with Chris Bowley's drawing. Painted with Humbrol 24 blue & a mix of 27001 & 27003 (can't remember the ratios). Tip of the propeller spinner is Alclad Airframe alu. The red,white & blue on the fin was airbrushed on having discarded the decals which I bought a second kit purely to obtain, that's going back on ebay!. The fuselage '1' and white markings on the floats were cut from white inkjet decal stock, exhaust ports are a home brew inkjet decal. Serial no.s came from Modeldecal sheet 104 WW1 serials. Balance weights were made from 0.5mm rod and strip. and pitot was 0.25mm rod. Rigging is 0.03mm fishing line secured with CA and tightened by holding a soldering iron near, took over a month to do, This was my first go at rigging so please forgive! Nearly forgot about the strip underneath this was just plastic strip. Ive made a base from 2mm plasticard and rod, this is still unpainted, not sure what colour to do it in, any ideas? Thanks for looking Mark

I have a set of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=wax+carving+tool&_frs=1 enough choices to cover any filling situation you might find.

Slaters tube - Sorry, me being a bit vague its actually plastic tube, I had in my mind it was made by Slaters but it was Evergreen http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Shapes.htm#Round Tubing. Yes the tips are a more rigid plastic than rubber. How is it on PE.........just give me a min............just tried it on a few parts, none went ping however it was easy to pull the parts from the tweezers grip. Im sure rubber tips would be better here but it would need to be a rigid rubber. Maybe the inside of the tips could be lined with something, might try the heat shrink tonight.

Arrived yesterday, not had time to give them a good evaluation, tips are made from a solid material with only slight bendyness to it and could be removed so someone could make clones out of another material if needed. Tried it on a few things I happened to have on the bench at the time. needle=good grip 1mm dia lead shot= good grip 3mm dia slaters tube=ping!!!! could be ok on smaller dia 0.3mm nylon fishing line=good grip I'll try some more later A thought did cross my mind today I have some lengths of heat shrink tubing Im going to see if i can fit it to another pair and see how that goes. So far so good! Mark

Will look great until the engine stops and it immediately noses over possibly trapping then drowning anyone inside.

Think this is the same just ordered one came to £8.26 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190853289801

Rodders. Have a EADI Bonanza in the stash too along with a Cessna 172.

Steve, I've used dryfilm negative resist applied using a laminator then developed with caustic soda.

Bit more progress on this, been having a bash at home brew photo etch after many trial and error artwork re-designs etc I've managed to produce this A few parts here the instrument panel and rudder pedals are one part with fold lines, control yolks, down the left are torque links for the main gear & nose, down the right are the tail tie down point, a new underwing pitot head, and the grab handle that is above the rear right window, along the bottom are 6 flap hinges for under the wing, above the rudder pedals are 2 fuel filler caps. Also included is a DV window outline the intention being to make the side windows using the resin filling method. One I have devised a reliable process for this ill do an article in tools n tips but for the moment making a good PE is still a bit hit and miss and good(ish) copies are still requiring an element of luck. Control yolks were fitted using short lengths of 0.25mm rod and then sprayed satin black, the instruments were filled from behind using humbrol gloss clear. I'm going to try to mount it to a background to give some instrument face detail before fitting. Discarded the kit seats as they are too posh for a 1968 model and replaced with scratch built ones, think the red is too bright so might repaint the seats, tamiya tape seat belts! Need to do some more work on the side windows as I've discovered that just blocking up the rear window is not enough for a Cherokee 140, the frames are a bit different too. Thanks for looking Mark

I mix by weight using drug dealers scales http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=digital+pocket+scales&_frs=1 I just pour out the resin by volume then weigh it, remember to tare the mixing container first then use an eye dropper to for the catalyst (1-2%) as it is such a small amount compared to the resin Great for mixing paint for airbrushing too

SD-330 http://www.hpcpublishing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=383&category_id=27&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=61 SD-360 http://www.hpcpublishing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=384&category_id=27&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=61

Have a catalogue from July 1990 1:144 W008 - 2xHam/std propellers 4bld. (B29,type)

Sure no prob Steve I'll run off a few extras, when I get back, going to cast the spinner too.

Final post before I press the pause button on this to go on holiday. Only a little progress, just making moulds really. I've separated the nose master from the rest of the fuselage and made an RTV mould for it, I have no resin at the moment so to check the mould i've made a first cast from candle wax, looks good all the detail seems to be there with no bubbles. Just before I return i'll order some resin. Thinking of getting this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EasyFlo-60-500ML-Fast-Cast-Polyurethane-Liquid-Plastic-Kit-USE-WITH-MOULDS-/370782273452?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item5654587fac never used it before has anyone got experience of it good or bad? I've been banned from any 'plane stuff' while I'm away so I going to suffering withdrawal, Any good museums near Sydney that I can accidently stumble across? until then, thanks for looking

That is fantastic, A good inspiration!

I've replaced the milliput nose with the master and temporarily fitted the cowling to the fuselage with PVA so I can get the final profile prior to casting a copy to use on the final model. Panel lines were scribed and catches made from aluminium tape. I'll give it a coat of gloss to seal everything in and give a nice smooth finish for making a mould tomorrow. Master for the main gear spats is done and have also started the one for the nose wheel but its about 0.7mm too short on not quite the right shape underneath. Think ill start it again!

I ordered a set last week out of curiosity, £5.95 from a UK seller but can be cheaper from the far East sellers. range from 0.45mm to 0.8mm at the tip and are about 0.2mm wider at the other end, Only round ones so not quite what Nick is looking for but I think I'll find use for them.

I like the idea of using CA to round the window edges, does it need refiling with a round file afterwards?

Had a few days away with work so not much been done, I've made mould for the nose and was going to cast a resin copy this morning for temporary fitting to establish the shape at the front of the cowling. however things were not going to go smoothly with the resin in simple terms I couldn't get the lid off, It was bonded on. Even after mechanical brute force no joy. The resin had probably had it anyway it was 2 years old and there wasn't much left. I could order some more resin but I'm going on holiday at the end of the week so would probably turn up while I'm away. Had a look round to see what I could cast with. Herculite - too brittle, too long to fully dry, not good with water for wet sanding, Plaster of paris - worse, Gelcoat - not the right application, and being able to breathe would be useful. Milliput - hmmm, this might work pushed into the mould left in the airing and by lunchtime it had set enough to use. detail didnt transfer very well but I only need the general shape. While it was setting I completed the plasticard frame for the cowling I've spent the last few hours filling in the voids with more milliput and smoothing out with water, think I have the shape right. A while back I made a modellers equivalent of a plasterers trowl for this purpose, I find it very useful, its just a bit of T shaped aluminium with a piece of plasticard stuck on that gets polished every so often. Once its done ill remove the nose, its only temporary stuck on and replace it with a proper cast one.

Sgt.Squarehead Have a Sprite and a 63 but have not used either recently since I invested in a Neo which seems to be good at both the fine and the broad work, Sprite is tech at the moment with a trigger that keeps braking requiring a strip down and solder repair then rebuild and is then good for few months, been like that for years!

Must have been a have been severe that winter, Warrington seems to escape the harshness the rest of the country gets and I the snow is never as deep as everywhere else.

RNAS Stretton is just a couple of miles away, lots of aviation history here in Warrington, Bit more left of Stretton than there is of Burtonwood, You can still drive around a small section of perimeter taxiway at the Eastern end, My farther went to an airshow there in the 1950s as well as one at Burtonwood, he tells me he can remember watching B36s making approaches to Burtonwood too. Sadly that one is completely gone now with the last of the hangers being demolished a couple of years ago. I do have some childhood memory of seeing flying at Burtonwood in the 70s & early 80s but only in the form of gliders and the odd Huey.