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Everything posted by Cheshiretaurus

  1. A little time work, A little time eating, A little time sleeping, Even less time modelling.......So short post then! Anyway quick update after a wait for some Flory sanding sticks that I had run out of, They arrived yesterday so I opened the draw to put them away only to find 2 packets I already had.......duh! So my slow progress brings me here. Wings have gone together really well. trailing edges could do with being a bit thinner though if you are listening AIRFIX. tail went on next followed by the engine nacelles. all generally a good fit but one or two unexpected gaps are present that I will need to sort out soon. So far things look like this:- I'm going enjoy a beer or three this evening in the 27°C while the Tamiya Extra thin sets. As far as the rear bomb bay fairing is concerned Ive been trying my hand at 3D printing one but without much success, I can loft a fairing in fusion 360 easily now, I can 3D print it easily. can I get it to fit? no chance! eventually I think I resort to the milliput option like others have done so. So not that much to report in this post Thanks for looking, Beer time CT
  2. It is a light, kit does have both a clear part (not used in this kit) and a blank part that should have gone on by this stage (step 86) unless SD has cunning plan yet to be revealed.
  3. EDIT Ignore this bottle of wine induced duplicate post EDIT
  4. Please take a seat, everyone is welcome to watch me f**K up I mean build this kit I Started using MRP about 2 years ago, absolutely brilliant stuff! Really smooth, & easy to use. Still use Humbrol enamel & Xtracolor enamel too. Yes, now I look at that bit they did make a bit of a cock up there didn't they. I was going to do this OOB but I now cant ignore this elephant in the room now I know about it. The doors and fairing are just dry fitted in this pic. I'm going to do mine doors open though. A couple of questions as I have no drawings of a B.XVI Does the correct fairing extent rearwards to the same distance of the one in the kit? Would I be correct in saying it is just a case of filling in and smoothing the cut outs on the sides to the line I've drawn in? Also on the doors, Is it just a case of removing the detail on that rear third? Does anyone have some good drawing of a B.XVI they would like to share? Thoughts that spring to mind are either good old 20th century Milliput or try and expand my very limited skills in Fusion 360 and make a 21st century solution of a new part on the Elegoo Mars? CT is now in pondering mode.
  5. Thought I'd make a start on it. going to be a pure OOB build of ML963 of No. 571 Sqn from the kit. So a really quick post, I'll just get to the bones of it. Cockpit and bombay roof section complete, goes together really easy, MRP interior green airbrushed, then Humbrol 30 for the seats (kit suggests HU163 but I don't have that one) MRP 5 for the black bits. Tamiya tape harness. Fuel tanks are Humbrol 70 This pic from the Mosquito Wikipedia page show some labels too so have added them in Now all closed up and setting CT
  6. I belive they used TA639 at Cosford. That would be an Air cadet then.
  7. And here it is, arrived through the door 40 minutes ago Nice interior detail 2 Prop & gear sprues 2 Canopys (Part 5 is not mentioned in the instructions - future releases then!) 20 Page instruction booklet Going to be a nice build! CT
  8. Have you tried Bare-metal foil? https://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html Self adhesive and as thin as kitchen foil. Think Hannants & Modellingtools sell it and probably a few more https://www.modellingtools.co.uk/bare-metal-foil-30-c.asp https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?scale_id=89514&per_page=25&search_direction=asc&search=bare meta&manufacturer_id=309536
  9. I use Tamiya masking sheets for larger masks on a portrait cutter and for smaller masks just apply some Tamiya tape direct to the back of the cutting matt and position your cuts on to that. Works for me
  10. Yes, I use Microscale Set and Sol with them works just fine.
  11. I find one of these quite useful https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Grafx-Masking-Liquid-Marker/dp/B00FVPXAM4
  12. This would be perfect for standard LEDs however its 5v so wont supply the 9v or more required for your disco LED but still good as a starting point for simple circuits Ive found an online LED resistor calculator that you might find useful. https://ohmslawcalculator.com/led-resistor-calculator Did you say that your orange LEDs are in groups of 7 (7x20mA)? if so with 3.3v x 140mA = 0.462watts, in LED terms thats going to be super bright, so probably no need to go anywhere near full power with them so that will help reduce the power requirement.
  13. Very true but, relevant when trying to assess a power supply requirement as getting one too small will be overloaded.
  14. The 450mA supply I mentioned was an example, What you actually need would depend on your application. Whats the current of the LEDs you will use have you got a link to them?
  15. Its not just the voltage its also how much current the supply can provide. If your disco LED needs 9v to operate then you could run your other LEDs from the same supply just need a higher value resistor. Add up the current required by all the LEDs and add maybe 50% so your power suppy is not Running at max. As an example if you have say 30 LEDs at 10mA that is 300mA so you should look for a minimum of 450mA for your power supply.
  16. Thats a good idea, its a good investment to learn more circuits on in the future.
  17. 2 options for adding the red & green :- you could have them both share the same resistor(still needs to be calculated) or each on their own resistors.
  18. Now it gets complex as you will need a controller circuit for that!
  19. So you want to do something like this for your orange LEDs? I've not included the red & green LEDs just yet.
  20. What figures did you use to get to 330ohm? (Foreword voltage and current of the LEDs) Your red & green LEDs could be connected in parallel to your 5v supply along with another separate current limiting resistor. Or you could add them in parallel to your existing LEDs with the same 330ohm resistor.
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