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Everything posted by Cheshiretaurus

  1. I would expect like most things in aviation weight & cost. Don't add more of either if it isn't really needed for a particular application. The flat windscreen would have been more difficult to produce so costly, and was probably a lot heavier.
  2. Shortest shot in the whole short history shots that are short shot on a camera with a short lens. It probably didn't go any where near the QA dept and took a short cut.
  3. More evidence that where as Airfix know how copy reduce and accurately make a kit of an `object` but they dont know jack about it.
  4. Probably done there too bit I think Hornby would like to do their own once the shipment is received as they are the customer of the moulding company.
  5. Still no luck getting the back frame of the snow guard to print, think I just have to accept the fact its just too thin. so need to go back to fusion and change a few things. and thicken up a few areas. Attention today in the Tuesday modelling window went to finishing the tail wheel. Masked up and coat for Alclad Dull aluminium. Right the big question is where the (insert chosen word here) is my Molotow Chrome pen, I want to do the oleo! after fruitless search, its going to have to be a bit of baremetal foil cut a strip of 0.5mm x 2mm to wrap around and after several attempts and needing to cut new strips I finally got it in place. I've already sprayed the mainwheels, just need to weather them a little before putting them on. Might have another go with Fusion 360 tonight. CT
  6. Very nicely done, great weathering too. You might want to ask the mods to move this to the ready for inspection section though.
  7. While I'm still working out how to mount the snow guards, and possibly may change them to a more oval shape (there seems to be 2 types). This is the rear mount for the oval guards and Im having trouble getting it to print the vertical parts, the gauge of the frames is no less than the previous one, I'll keep tying different settings and maybe thicken up the vertical parts. Attention has turned to the tail wheel and its lack of anti-shimmy shape. I've cut a length of 0.5mm wide strip from 0.125mm plasticard and wrapped two lengths of it around the end of the tyre glued with TET quick set. The edges were then blended with the tyre with thin CA and its self levelling properties to smooth out. After a little sanding smooth, Ive given it a coat of MRP tyre rubber. Not perfect but probably better than it was. Aluminium paint next. CT
  8. And you managed to understand my half baked answer, along with me forgetting to put the ebay link in.
  9. I'm using this from Ebay I bought maybe 5 years ago, not sure what gauge I have, might be 200 but I really cant remember. https://www.ebay.co.uk/111485649556 I sprayed the 0.15mm frames & mesh MRP Med sea grey, didnt use a primer as I' dont want to risk bridging the gaps in the mesh. These are only test pieces as they have started to separate and one of the frames has a split. Maybe CA is not flexible enough, I used Gator grip on the 0.3mm frames and that seems to have worked better, will try again tomorrow. Today is just seeing how they look, still need to work out how to mount them too as white tack will not be the way to go. Maybe 3D print a rear frame possibly. Cosford Mossie again
  10. LIDAR is King! They could at least have released it with the Cosford decals, would have been as accurate as it gets.
  11. Bit more progress, bombs were weathered with mig oil pens followed but matt coat and are now loaded, and the doors fitted, MLG legs went on next, these are very fiddly to fit!, still have the tyres to paint. Made some smaller gauge snow guards, (bottom half of pic) these are 0.15mm. glued to the mash, this is the second time I've glued the 0.15mm one on as the previous ones became carpet monster fodder. I'll cut them out later tonight Still need to work out how to mount them. CT
  12. While the Decals on the props and bombs done and a coat of Humbrol matt cote is drying I noticed something on ML963, It has snow guards on the carburettor intakes. I'm going to try to recreate these with a 3D printed frame and fine wire mesh sheet I've done the frame in Fusion 360 and printed a few copies. This is 5mm x 2.1mm representing 14" x 6" outside dimensions and the frame is 0.3mm, I might be able to get a thinner frame to print later. Does the outer dimensions look right before I carry on? The frame can be made thinner later. Plan is to glue the frame to the mesh then cut them out. CT
  13. Disregard my question, Its right there in the instructions. The instructions are always right, arnt they........
  14. Thanks for that tip, Black going on soon.. Some more Wednesday progress I finished sanding smooth the inside of the bomb bay doors, then gave them a coat for Mr Surfacer 1500 black and at the same time gave the bomb carriers the same black, I've found Mr Surfacer gives a lovely satin finish. The doors along with the MLG doors then got some preshading with MRP white. MRP Interior green on the inner bits and medium sea grey on the outer bits next. Bomb Carriers went on next Last of the decals still to do so the Bombs and prop spinners got a glossing from Humbrol gloss cote in preparation for that Are these 500 pounders or 1000 pounders? does anyone know?, I'm thinking 1000lbs. I'm going to let the gloss harden before applying the decals maybe later tonight or tomorrow. CT
  15. Bit more progress today with the bomb bay doors, Ive filled the cut outs with 0.5mm plasticard. I'll use sprue goo to fill the gaps and attachment points for the TT35 parts C3/4 on the doors then put them a side to set before I sand them. Props painted with MRP Black, Trainer yellow PRU Blue & Alclad 117 Dull aluminium. More painting, MLG legs & hubs were done with the same Alcald dull aluminium. Bomb bay working parts with interior green and Ordnance with MRP138 olive drab. Think the next job will be to assemble the bomb bay CT
  16. After a bit of research it looks like they are both on the right not left. found these two great videos on YouTube that would be really useful for anyone wanting to do some super-detailing. After further thought, I decided its not too late to modify them on this build. Fresh new razor blade please.. VoilĂ  Thanks for the pointer on this Dave Just need to wait for the TET to set fully then I'll clean up the joint. and get rid of the pins on the bottom too! CT
  17. They will be chopped off in due course, Thanks for the input Dave Probebly a bit late for me to correct on this build but something to consider on others, Just looking for good pic of this at the moment (looking like it should be on the right though, but I could be wrong) Think I know how Airfix came to this error, This is the Cosford Mossie, The way the support has be made does look at first glance like a pin is there.
  18. Right I think I've been stitched up by the Airfix on the instructions again. Here is how the MLG legs are moulded on the sprue, pay attention to the sprue ejector points around the legs particularly the one at the wheel attachment point (Jacking point?) When I removed them from the sprue I removed all the ejector points too except for the last one I did as I had spotted in the instructions that they actually should have a slight bit of steel at the end. Instructions show them to look like this. So I left it in place on the last one and made a mental note to repair the others later. I've just spent an hour stretching some sprue and my eyesight to make new pins. I was quite pleased with the result Then I thought I'd check what I'd done with reference pics but all the pics I had showed Mossies on jacks and that part obscure. So I looked at more pics on the interweb and none seem to have this feature. Tamiya FB VI in the stash could be giving me a red herring here. This is PZ474 as an example So the big question Did a B.XVI have these pins? or have I just wasted my time?
  19. Check the scale on those plans Bill, the 10ft scale should be 1.67" (43mm) I have some Warpaint/SAM/Aviation news drawings in the collection that have shrunk or expanded in the (printing process) wash. I've had to scan and resize them before use.
  20. Gave it a Flory dark dirt wash clay wash then sealed that in with a bit more Humbrol Gloss Cote, Once all sealed it got a very light thin coat of Humbrol Matt Cote thinned with Mr Rapid thinner As far as the main body is concerned thats complete. De mask Just whirly propulsive thingies, round dangley Dunlop thingies with the steel things to hold them in place and some doors to keep the ordanance warm then I think we might be somewhere near done. CT
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