Pappy
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Posts posted by Pappy
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G'day people,
These are some pics of my 1/72 Italeri MH-47E.
I made a few detail additions such as adding mesh to the engine nacelles, wiring to the mini-guns and undercarriage. I also modified plenty of kit bits as the rotors have the correct wider chord of the composite blades fitted to the later chinooks, but the blade cuffs need to be angled at 55 degrees at the root. I also replaced the spent shell ejector tubes with new scratchbuilt items. The antenna and winch frame was replaced with fine brass wire.
enjoy
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day Mike,
Can you tell me, is the main undercarriage round in cross section?
Hasegawa's main gear is a weird oval cross section which was (for me ) the biggest flaw with the kit,
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day people,
Does anyoe have a set of the 1/72 Airfix Lancaster decals of "G for George" that they will not be using,
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day Mike,
Fantastic build mate, a real cracker. I have mine and will start it soonish.
One thing I noticed however is that the upper left rudder mass balance is a little crooked. It is pretty obvious in the head on shot, otherwise,a real beauty,
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day people,
I will wait until I see the plastic before passing judgement. Personally, I am happy to read about any and all errors, right down to whether the fourth rivet on the the defrangulator panel needs another two and they are the wrong pattern anyway!
I can then decide what errors (if any) require correction, and the extent of work involved, versus the effect of the corrections and visual impact on the finished model (which is after all the whole point!), to decide if the work is worthwhile and indeed required.
This is always highly subjective and the greatest strength of the hobby. You don't have to do anything to 'correct' a kit as long as you are happy. The builders skill and desire for accuracy will decide the level of fidelity that the kit will require. I find that when I build unfamiliar kits, I can get these done relatively quickly because AMS dos not have a chance to set in. I am not suggesting that I don't do research, but sometimes a subject will not have a lot of references, so a basic out of box build will result.
If someone wishes to build a 'comp winner' with multiple open panels, resin and PE, fantastic,
I'm all for it, but that was their decision. I don't like it when reviews include aftermarket detail sets, as I would prefer to see how the kit supplied detail looks without improvement, and then make my own decision as the justification for aftermarket. I don't have a problem with a small insert panel that shows the detail of aftermarket replacement items however. In case you think I am not a fan of aftermarket items, you are incorrect, I love the stuff, but too many people rely on the stuff as a crutch, buying a kit then sitting on it until the aftermarkt catches up. Still, again, that is the beauty of this hobby, personal choice.
Now back to the Kinetic vipers.
Personally I will probably be buying a few of these kits if for no other reason than the decal sheets and the conformal tanks, parachute tails etc. If these kits are 'sub-standard' then these parts will be used on my Hasegawa/Tamiya F-16's and still it will be cheaper than buying the rsin aftermarket items.
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Verrrry nice models Pappy - & really dramatically displayed! I really like those stands!!
Keef
Cheers Keef!
Pappy
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G'day Keef (et al)
The Has 1/72 kit is the best detailed F-111 kit in any scale. I have built one or two of these myself.
Here's how mine came out,
This is a 1SQN F-111C (pre-AUP) with a load of inert weapons in 'display load' configuration. The jet is wearing the old tactical SEA scheme.
This is a 1SQN F-111C (post AUP). The jet is painted in the current all over grey (FS36118) scheme.
This is a 6SQN F-111G. To add interest, I cut apart the landing gear and posed it in mid retraction for dramatic effect.
All decals are from Aussie Decals, paints are Gunze Sanyo acrylics. I used the Hasegawa weapons sets for the the bang.
There are plenty of reference pictures (as well as people who know about Pigs) over at aussiemodeller.com. Additionally, there are a couple of good walk arounds in this bit:
http://www.aussiemodeller.com/pages/Walkarounds.html
Finally, there are plenty of good builds, and build threads over there as well,
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day there,
(Sorry, long post)
I may be able to answer some "Pig" questions.
The RAAF F-111G's did not carry any precision guided munitions (PGM or 'smart' bombs), they were however very good 'bomb trucks' for unguided or 'dumb' bombs. Although included as part of the sale, the F-111G drop tanks and fixed outer pylons were never fitted while in RAAF service.
The 2000lb bombs (Mk.84) was carried directly attached to the wing pylon on the inner swinging pylons, the outer fixed pylons (stn#1,2 7 & 8) were reserved for the fixed pylons, and were only ever designed to carry fuel tanks ('jugs'). Incidentally, the fixed pylons on the F-111G were ejectable, the F-111C's are not.
The inner four pylons (stn# 3,4,5 & 6) could also be fitted with a BRU-3/A, a modified multiple ejector rack that could carry up to 6 X 500lb weapons (Mk.82). The Mk.82 came in the low drag, high drag ('snakeye') and later ballute (Mk.82AIR) parachute retarded flavours. Also note that the BRU-3/A that the G model used was different slightly to the BRU-3/A that the F-111C uses.
The F-111G's could also be fitted with MXU-648 'luggage' pods, which are basically a converted napalm container with a hardback and hinged access door.
The 1/48 Academy FB-111A and F-111C kits are basically identical, and, as already mentioned both the early TriplePlow I (F-111C) and Triple Plow II (F-111G) intakes are provided in each kit.
The F-111C is wired for all the dumb bombs mentioned above, as well as GBU-12 (500lb), GBU-10 (2000lb), GBU-24 (2000lb) weapons as well as AGM-84 Harpoon and AGM-142 Raptor. Defensive AIM-9L/M sidewinders can be carried on a LAU-7 launcher rail, but at the cost of a weapons station, as the option to mount these on the pylon sides was not adopted.
The kit instructions erroneously indicate that the main landing gear rear door should sit horizontally behind the main beam assembly (main wheel undercarriage assembly). This is the configuration that the YF-111A and some F-111A's were fitted with. You will need to cut along the scribed horizontal line and keep the larger portion of the rear door. This lives behind the main beam assembly in an almost vertical position.
The kit jugs are too short in length by about a third. The jug from a 1/48 A-10 is pretty close match however.
The inlet spikes for an F-111G are too short, and the strike camera fitted to F-111C's will need to be added as it is missing. There is also a pronounced 'hump' in front of the windscreen on the F-111G . This was used to house the astro tracker when the F-111G's were in the nuclear bomber guise (The G's began their life as FB-111A's for those that did not know). The F-111G's also had the low voltage 'slime' lights whilst the F-111C's do not. Just to confuse you further, some F-111C's have cannibalised engine panels which feature a 'slime' light, however these are not operative.
Both kits do not feature the ALE-40 (F-111G) and ALE-47 (F-111C) chaff/flare dispensers . The kit has three vertical chutes that represent the earlier ALE-28 system. Externally, the ALE-40/47 systems are identical and may be recognised as the large square fairing on either side of the engine nozzles that house four magazines that can be fitted with chaff and flare expendables. The F-111C originally had the ALE-28 system, but was fitted with ALE-47 as part of the upgrade programme. If you want a grey jet (post upgrade) you will need ALE-47, whilst if you are building a camo bird, leave this area alone.
The cockpit was also upgraded during the avionics update programme (AUP), the most obvious change being that two tv screens (MFD's) were fitted to the navigator's side of the instrument panel to replace the old clockwork (no kidding) bombing computer.
cheers,
Pappy
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Nice work Pappy, the little touches of detail really make this one stand out. Particularly impressed with the subtlety of the exhaust heat-effect. How did you do it?
G'day Col,
The heat stains were simulated using Tamiya clear colours (blue,yellow and a little red) brushed onto the chrome parts.
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Pappy
Nice work there, looks great
but, I thought you were a dedicated rotor man!
(I know, its always good to do somthing different)
G'day Oz,
I actually am pretty much a jet guy, the whirly wing stuff is what I do when I am on a break. As for bikes, well, I've always been a bike nut.
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G'day people,
This is my Tamiya 1/12 Ducati 900SS kit. I modified it slightly by adding a handlebar mirror. I stripped the chrome plating from the mufflers because I could not eliminate the join seam without damaging the chrome. I repainted the mufflers in Alclad chrome.
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day people,
Here are some pics of my 1/12 Starfighter cockpit kit that I built a while back. This kit (and its sister F-16 cockpit kit) have since both been re-issued by Italeri.
I used the Verlinden Lock-On Volume 1 to detail up the seat as the seat belt arrangement was very simplified and/or incorrect.
A very nice kit, the kits did not sell very well initially and so the range never expanded beyond the two kits. A shame as it would have been nice to see more modern aircraft cockpits released.
Pappy
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G'day all,
I have completed the aircraft.
Tamiya supplies two aircraft sprues with four aircraft in a stowed configuration and two ready for flight. I have decided that along with the two stowed aircraft, the third aircraft ready on the catapault (sans floats).
The second 'ready' aircraft will be displayed alongside the boat (on its beaching dolly) in the more typical IJN green over grey scheme with the floats installed.
cheers,
Pappy
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Thanks very much George,
I knew the intake was green at the front but I didn't know the back portion was chromate. I also wasn't sure where the transition from green to chromate/yellow happened, thanks again.
I have a question for you though.
Can the A-7H carry the IR pod?
There is a long pod with a slanted front that I have seen pictures of the HAF A-7E's loaded with on the inboard right pylon station. I would like to include it on my A-7H, but I am not sure if the jet is wired for it?
cheers,
Pappy
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Great work so far my friend!!!!
How will you paint the intake? Any tips cause i will have to do the same!!!!!!
Yia sou megale!
I am not sure how I will paint the intake. As George has pointed out, it is medium green (FS43102) for about half its length, and then transitions to chromate. I guess I will just try to mask and spray it?
Finally how did you paint the exhaust? Looks so realisticaly metal and weathered!!!!!
I sprayed the exhaust gun metal (basically 50:50 black and aluminium) then when dry, sprayed some Alclad steel, but from a distance of about 2 feet away, so that the exhaust was 'speckled' with atomised paint. When dry, I gently sanded the exhaust with some micromesh cloths and finally sprayed some diluted reddish brown shade in random spots.
cheers,
Pappy
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Hey Pappy.
That is some really awesome work there mate.
Wish I could work that small.
1/144th is about the smallest I go, let alone 1/350th.
Cheers Daz
1/144 is practically the next scale up, go on son, give 1/350 a go!
Thanks mate,
Pappy
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G'day all,
Thanks for the encouragement. I may actually have to finish this one now!
I am using the Eduard interior/exterior PE sets. The interior set includes a PE overlay for the rear bulkhead visible through the exhaust apeture.
I also meant to post these pics of the preparation required to install the Aires cockpit
Basically, scrape down the cockpit sill and remove the front portion of the instrument shroud shelf, remembering the old adage, measure twice cut once!
Since my intake was all nice and smooth, and people wold be likely to look down it, they will need to see something at the end. To this end, I used an inlet turbine stolen from an Academy F-111 kit. I cut the turbine inlet out from the bulkhead and after removing the excess plastic, the outline was matched to the intake cross section. It was then painted and attched to the end of the inlet
HAF A-7H's did not have th re-fueling probe fitted (unlike their A-7E's which do!) instead a crude fairing is installed over the same position. Using walkaround pictures as a reference, the fairing was knocked up using plastic stock. I also noticed that A-7H have the fuselage waveguides (radar transmission trunking) fitted. Luckily, these parts are included in the Revell A-7E boxing, so they were fitted after opening the appropriate holes in the fuselage. Apparently, in the original Hasegawa release, there was a PE fret that included PE bases to the waveguides. I didn't know this at the time, because if I did I would have traced around the waveguides and used some .005" plastic sheet to simulate it, :shithappens:
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day Mish,
They were not that hard really. The birds are silver overall, so a quick blast of the airbrush sorted that. I then picked out the 'aotake' areas with a '000' brush using Tamiya clear blue. The canopy is a decal, so that was sorted. The wing tip nav lights were also brushed in using clear blue and red, and finally the anti-glare panel and bomb were brushed in. I simply painted along the panel lines for the anti-glare panel. The exhausts were just a quick pass with a 50:50 mix of copper and black.
They took me about an hour to do. The hardest part was holding the little buggers. I superglued each one to a toothpick using the base, just below the bomb. The tooth pick had their ends flattened to make a better contact patch. Once the little darlings were complete, they were gently snapped away from the toothpick.
In case anyone else is building this kit, although it is possible to fit the aircraft after the hangar 'floor' is attached to one side of the hangar/sail, it is much easier to attach the aircraft before!!
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day fellas,
As I said, I am no scratcher, so I'll just piggyback on the hard work of others. Thanks for the kind words though,
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day people,
Here are some progress shots of my 1/48 Revell (Hasegawa) A-7H (Greek Air force) Corsair.
I am definately not in the same league as Periklis with respect to scratch building, so I went the after market route.
I went with the Aires resin cockpit.
Tub fit was quite painless. I had use some judicious sanding at the lower front and rear sections of the cockpit tub to clear the intake trunking.
The intake seams were taken care of by applying two milliput 'sausages along them. These were then smoothed down with a wet finger (pinky) until a smooth contour was achieved. Once cured, I used some fine wet and dry wrapped around a sponge covered pop stick to smooth out the intake seams further. Finally, I poured a whole jar of ceiling white paint down the intake. The was another jar at the other end of the intake. I repeated the process 3-4 times until a glass smooth intake resulted.
The cockpit tub was then fitted as per instructions.
Finally, I turned my attention to the exhaust pipe. This is the kit item
cheers,
Pappy-
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G'day Peri,
It is an optical illusion, the peg is really big!
I was amazed at the amount of detail that the little planes have. The panel lines are engraved so that they will take a wash. The props are included on the PE sheet and the canopy is a decal. The canopy decal is the bit I was really worried about as it is a very complex surface. The instructions advise that two slits are made either side of the front windscreen.
I followed their advice and used Micro Sol/Set and the decals snuggled down fine however.
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day people,
Here are some progress shots of my I-400.
According to my reference book "I-400, Japan's secret Aircraft Carrying Submarine" the "Seiran" attack planes were painted all over silver and the Japanese Hinomaru ("meatballs") were overpainted with US insignia ("stars and bars"). Initially, the I-400 was to attack the Panama Canal using her complement of three Seiran attack planes.
The Tamiya kit fits together beautifully, and it includes a PE fret which is fairly comprehensive, though no railings are included. There decal sheet markings are mostly for the aircraft, however the markings are for the typical Japanese scheme, and no US markings are included. A fellow model club member was able to spare some of his 1/350 US markings supplied in the Trumpeter USS Lexington kit.
The sail is just about ready to be finished. I am waiting for the Tom's Modelworks IJN sub PE sheet to arrive before moving on. If anyone has this sheet, Iwas wondering if they could send me a scan of the instruction sheet?
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day Ozzie!
Very, very kool, not far now!
cheers,
Pappy
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G'day Nev,
Thanks for that, and I think the highlighting on the figures is a little too light as well. I began with a much darker grey, but wasn't happy, so I used a lighter version, which was okay, but then I went too far, oh well, I am no figure painter that is for sure!
I hadn't heard of the craft or the elite unit before I started the kit, but as the build progressed, I began to appreciate the bravery of these men, after all, riding a torpedo into an enemy harbour is not for the faint hearted.
Apparently the British 'chariot' version was heavily influenced by the SLC,
cheers,
Pappy
MH-47E Special Ops Chook
in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
Posted