skuki

I did order it afterall, so no need to bother I recognized the needed parts from the pic above (i think). Tnx anyway

Can you please share some instructions for cockpit details? Thanks

Will these do: http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/FHP48080F

Thanks a lot. which to use then? Are the ones from hasegawa sets OK, any other aftermaket?

Hi there, sry for bringing the old thread up, but I suppose its better to do that than to open the new one . Have a q: I have these eduard brassin lgb gbu-24: http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/GBU-24-bomb-1-48.html I've seen tornados carrying these, but I wanted to know weahter is possible to use them on gulf war gr1 tornado? Didn't find any pictures, only one profile with them. Tnx a lot

Hello, three pipes are from kit, everything else is scratch. You can see those three on 12th pic from above, so two for coolant and one for oil tank. Btw, thank all again Hi Kenneth, regarding wooden floor - as far as I can remember, I used gunze acrilyc color H310 and wood brown. I first applied darker (wood brown) and then H310. Leave the first one to dry for about 1 day. Now, it is a bit tricky in further steps because you need to use Mr.color thinner which can easily take everything off. Apply very very light coat of this thinner just after you applied H310 (second colour), and use brush like as you are trying to take off only that colour. Make moves only in one direction. By doing this you will achive mixing of both colours in various ratios and you will be able to achive various shades of wood. Maybe I didn't explain it very good, I will try with pictures next time I will paint wood.

Thanks all !! Kenethe, I've put explanation somwhere else so I'll just c/p EVERYTHING you need is on following picture (instead of black you'll use color you need, black is only because the engine is black): Please note that this is the only combination of manufacturers of needed products that were tested and I can guarantee that works. Comibination with other manufacturers failed compared to the results of these from picture. Follow this sequence (in this case on engine): 1. First apply cote of Alclad black primer & microfiller ALC 309. It is already prepared for airbrush so no need for thinning. 2. After that apply cote of aluminum alclad ALC 101 (any other will do except of those like polished aluminum or chrom and similar). You can apply it right after application of 1. cause it is dry after few seconds. 3. Apply colour that will pe chipped (in this case black). To achive "greasy" effect for engine use 50-50 % ratio gunze gloss black and gunze matt black (maybe a bit more gloss). Steps 1-3 can be taken emidiately one after other cause everything is dry in few seconds. 4. There are two ways of removing paint, depening of the effect you wish to achive, and effects are: A.) scratch (for example when you hit something you emidiatelly make a scratch, like putting cover of the engine you'll often hit the engine on the same place ) B.) worn out areas - paint is removed gradually (areas that are worn because you repeatedly use same action -like walking on the same area, or like sitting on the same seat - bottom of pilot seat is good example). So for A effect use scalpel to make tiny scratches. Sometimes you can use sharp area but I usually turn scalpel arround and I use blunt area of razor. It is because of this cote described in 1. you'll not remove aluminum color (unless you scratch really hard, you have to be careful a bit, but not much ) For B effect you have to do this: deep brush in Mr. Color thinner. Go over the areas on wish you want to remove paint. The technique is very simillar to drybrush, only with drybrush you apply paint and with this you remove paint from edges and similar. Also the brush is not entirely dry. So we can call it wetbrush . In fact it has to be half-dry. You can regulate how much paint you wish to remove buy degree of "wetness" (I know, it's stupid, I can't remember the right word) of brush. So, regarding this: - to remove paint only on tiny tiny things and edges - more dry than wet brush and a lot of moves with hand - to remove paint on larger areas, where you in fact want to achive mostly metal color with basic color here and there - wet brush and fewer moves with hand. Remember, both moves are just like when applying drybrush. In everything that is described under 4. mr. color thinner (or sctracthing with scalpel) WILL NOT remove alclad, but alclad can be removed if there is no primer. NOTE that ALCLAD is very very resistan after applied on primer described in 1. So, it is quite simple: 1. Alclad primer 2. Alclad color 3. Base color - Gunze aquas hobby color 4. Scratching and removine with scalpel and / or simple brush deepend in Mr. Color thinner (aka wetbrush ) 5. Watch the result P.S. I did my best to explain, but I know I probably didn't, so if there are any question don't hesitate to ask. Sorry have 2 go, I will explain regarding the wooden floor later

Hello everybody, this is my first post on Britmodeller. I knew for this site and forum before, but somehow I've never participated activly nor I quite realized the quality of this forum until I bought Tornado hobbyboss 1/48 and decided to make desert pink Gr.1 from gulf war. I found almost everything I needed on this site regarding Gr.1., but I still have a few questions - so once I make a complete list of my questions I'll be one boring pain in the a** In the meantime I'll post few pictures of the current progress on Tamiya Mustang, 1/32. There is not much to say about this kit, except it is probabaly the best I've ever seen. I hope you like it, and with a bit of luck I will join wings and fuse together tomorrow