RANDYLIZARD1978

in my Elegoo wash and cure machines, you can wash for as long as you need (I use Metho) once parts have fully dried I cure small parts for approx 1 to 2 mins thicker parts ie 5mm or thicker get 5 to 7 mins I use Siraya Tech ABS dark grey. Parts tend to go brittle if you over cure them.

I Use Metho (Methylated Spirit or denatured alcohol) I buy it in 5L and 20L bottles from Bunnings here in Aus best stuff for washing resin prints and it cheap. Have used it on Siraytech, elegoo, anycubic, Monotech resins, it works on all of them. good video here also

Elegoo has just announced a 12k printer . I have a Saturn and love it, plus their aftersales care is unmatched at this hobby level. for Dicks question above Elegoo resin is ok, its very much like Anycubic or any of the other cheaper resins. try and get the ABS like. These resins are perfect for most model applications. I print with Siraya Tech resins they are a bit dearer but i get almost 100% success with them without issues.

With C02 lasers you can cut 6mm Ply, MDF and acrylic (with a 40W laser or greater ) I have used mine to cut all of the above plus engrave on stone/rock, leather , wood and you can even engrave on most metals to a extent especially if you use a spray on additive. You cannot cut metal of any type with a C02 laser of any power, you need a Fibre laser these can be very expensive. (like add a few 00s on a co2 price) You have to be careful of some materials you cut/ engrave also, its a big NO to cut vinyl on a laser as it will produce toxic chlorine gas and hydrochloric acid, which can be hazardous to the operator and also cause damage to the laser cutter (it rusts all the insides overnight) I found that Styrene can be cut but has a bit of a rough edge that needs a light sand, I get my best results from any type of Acrylic..i have even done a 10mm thick part in several passes with mine. One really handy use for the laser cutter is to use it for your Etched metal mask, a lot of Electronic engineers use laser cutters to cut engrave the board and paths on the circuit boards and engrave through the mask prior to acid dips to produce their board paths. you could use the same method for producing etched metal parts.

SANNIX3d does some epic files, Ive done his RoboCop one. https://sanix3d.com/Indiana-Jones-STL-Files-p472697195

if you have a 3d printer there are some great files out there. https://sanix3d.com/AVATAR-STL-Files-p519476346 https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/art/sculptures/neytiri-3d-print (loads of others on CGTRADER but a lot are NSFW so i wont link them here)

Hi there I have a Saturn resin printer, if you change the angle of your item you are printing you can make layer lines disappear. also what layer height are you printing at? you will get slightly more visible lines at 0.05 compared to 0.03mm but 0.03mm is close to the pixel pitch size so is the sweet spot. i use 0.05 for bases and non detail important items 0.03 for my sculptures faces and weapons remember thinner layer lines take a lot longer to print.

brand and type of resin are you using? have you done calibration tests on your resin and setup? I have a Saturn and use Siraya tech resins and Elegoo resins so i can maybe give you some settings to try. https://siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech-test-model try this calibration test its very good, you will find you will only need medium supports at most for the model you are trying to print. I can help but I need the info above.

Is this the Good old University of Hertfordshire 'Special effects model out of junk project'? I too had a lot of fun making a model then spending hours making images on photo shop lol

Will follow this, my dad was on HECLA's sister HERALD during the Gulf. would love the file if you ever release it.

Welcome Nick, glad to see someone else from our beautiful city!

UK just announced the Challenger 3 this morning, will be a few challenger 2 going cheap soon.

happy valley fire nice way to start our year off.

Hi and Welcome Roger, Glad to see both another Adelaide local and also born Brit on here! its a lot nicer here hope to see some builds laters

Met him once, he was a close friend of my boss and came into our workshop to see what models we were working on. Really nice man and was very open with information and gave me as a apprentice industrial model maker at the time some great tips that I still use today.