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t15dja

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Everything posted by t15dja

  1. Did yours have the warped tail problem common to this kit ? The one in my stash does. Great job, by the way!
  2. Thanks Mike. Could I trouble you to tell me the MRP paint colours you used for the fuselage, nose and ram panels please? Your masking skills are admirable! I don't have the patience so have invested in the DN Models masks. Cheers.
  3. Thanks Mike, that's useful to know....forewarned is forearmed! Sorry, I forgot to ask, what paints / colours did you use for the fuselage, nose and RAM panels, and did you use any masks for the latter? Cheers, Dave.
  4. A superb build and really brought to life with the dio. I have one of these in the stash....can I ask what was poor about the kit.? Was it the fit or an accuracy issue?
  5. Brilliant....absolutely cannot wait. I've had my preorder for 2 with hannants since day 1. Shame I won't get the free ordnance kit, since hannants not recognised by AMK as a preorder company.
  6. Thank you Nikolay! Thank you Picard! Thank you Phil...I certainly am....the struggle was worth it! And thanks once again to everyone for looking and all your kind words.
  7. Many thanks, Sheepie, and thanks also for your "insider" knowledge and advice along the way. Concorde is a gorgeous aircraft and I am extremely jealous of your connections to the real thing!
  8. Many thanks, Pete. Yes, its a challenging build, but that's what we modellers thrive on! With a bit of patience and perserverence it can be made into an impressive model. Go on.....you know you want to!
  9. Here's my version of the 1/35 Tamiya Panther G (late). I don't normally build armour.... I'm usually an aircraft builder ....however during a hiatus with my recent 1/72 Concorde build I kept seeing this kit on the shelf and have always liked the shape of the Panther so decided to go for a quick build. It's OOB except for photo etched grilles and only took a short time to build - the fit was excellent. I know I haven't got the track sag quite right - all suggestions on how to do that with the kit tracks gratefully received - but it was great fun to build, paint and weather....so much so I've now bought a Tiger as well! I think I've just been converted to armour as well as aircraft! Thanks for looking!
  10. Many thanks, neilg. Your fantastic Concorde builds helped a great deal with the inspiration, and your advice and interest along the way is much appreciated.
  11. Here's my attempt at the 1/72 Revell (Airfix / Heller) Concorde. She's built out of the box except for the addition of a pair of pilots, a tiny bit of scratchbuilding under the visor and the F_DCAL decals, although I only used the window / door decals from the latter. It's an impressively large model once built, with a length of 85cm and a wingspan of 37cm. I definitely wouldn't describe it as an easy build.....here's a link to the build thread, which will hopefully give a flavour of the blood, sweat and tears required to undertake this kit! https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235047199-revell-172-concorde/page/8/&tab=comments#comment-3368409 Thanks for looking!
  12. Well, at long last, I'm calling her finished!! Thanks to all for the help and encouragement along the way! I'll post up some more pictures in the "Ready for inspection" section asap. This was a challenging build with many fit issues and faults, as those of you who've built this kit will know. Perseverance and patience (and copious amounts of filler) are required but in the end its definitely worth it and she'll make an impressive addition to any collection. Here's a link to the "Ready for Inspection" page: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235056567-revell-172-concorde/
  13. Simply superb......congratulations on capturing this wonderful aircraft! I will be embarking on one of these in the not too distant future....is yours OOB.....and do you have a build thread by any chance?
  14. Decaling coming along nicely....not finished yet obviously. The Revell decals are beautiful, as I also recently found with their 1/144 A380. The F-DCAL ones not so!
  15. Many thanks, Ray. That is also a very useful image and confirms colour (and placement ) of the walkway warning. Revell decals are definitely the way to go then for me, and I'll just be using the the F-DCAL window decals. It's interesting that F-DCAL couldn't even get the words right...."Do not walk on this area" rather than the correct wording "Do not walk in this area"
  16. Excellent, Sheepie, many thanks! I'm really glad the Revell ones are the correct ones because I'm sure they will be much easier to work with. Onwards then.........!
  17. As you know, I'm just working on the dacals and I have a 3 questions that I'm hoping someone may be able to answer.... As mentioned above I purchased some F_DCAL decals mainly because I decided to fill the kit windows and doors and use F-DCAL door & window decals. I'm finding the F-DCAL decals quite difficult to use - they take ages (I mean, like 15 minutes!) to begin to loosen from their backing paper and the carrier film (or "varnish" - see below) seems quite thick. They are "Laser printed" rather than "silk screen printed". I notice that on the F_DCAL website it says the following about Laser printed decals: "As the name implies, laser decals are printed with laser printers using toner and not ink as in silk screening. For this reason the colours white, silver or gold cannot be printed. They are the original F-decals but the pioneer era is over and these decals are now widely spread in many fields and forms. The whole decal set is printed on a blank decal page. The varnish covers all the sheet. Compared to silk screened decals you not only trim off the carrier paper but the varnish layer as well. Laser decals are very transluscent and must be applied over white surfaces. When you trim them off the sheet, colours look very light but, as you will find, this effect vanishes once the decal is applied." Q1: Are there any different techniques to applying laser printed decals, especially given how long they need to soak? Q2: Also, I notice that the walkway warnings are printed in silver on the original Revell decals but black on the F-DCAL sheet - see photo below - what colour should they actually be please? Revell: F-DCAL: Then there is the "do not walk" warning that goes on the upper wing surface above the main gear. Not only are the Revell / F-DCAL versions silver / black respectively, but they are also different shapes and, if placed correctly over the panel lines, the F-DCAL one does not reach the fuselage sides, which I would have thought it should. I've tried to look at some online pictures but can't make things out for certain. Again see photos below. So Q3 is, does anyone know which decal is correct for this particular walkway warning please, Revell or F-DCAL (I've cut the F-DCAL version out and placed it next to the Revell version)? Thanks again in anticipation.
  18. Well, I reckon most of the painting is done now that I've finished the engines and put the red flashes on the ends of the wings thus: To paint the engines I used Mr Metal Color "Dark Iron", which goes on black but can then be buffed to get a metallic lustre. However, with hindsight that was a mistake. Buffing the paint creates a microscopic paint dust that gets absolutely everywhere and seemed to become ingrained into the white paint of the model. It didn't wipe off either, even when using alcohol of airbrush cleaner. Handling the model only made it spread further. Eventually I ended up with dark smudges and finger prints all over the place. I found the only way of removing the marks was by using a very fine sander and polisher, after having first sealed the engine paint with Klear. It took absolutely ages to sand and polish away the dark marks and even now I can still see a few, however I'm going to call that weathering! I'll certainly think twice before using Mr Metal Color in such a way again. Anyway......decaling has now commenced! ...and yes, I did break the end off the pitot tube....I knew I would at some point!
  19. Thanks, and yes, we're well down the final straight now! The main tasks left are: 1. Fix paint problem around front left windscreen 2. Mask, paint and weather the engines 3. Apply the rather nice looking F-DCAL decals That little lot should normally take me not much time at all.....if only I could get back to the modelling bench! Like many of us I've got many other calls on my spare time at the moment, so fitting in time to build my ever- growing stash is proving to be a real challenge at the moment....but I will get there. Concorde will (and must) be finished by the end of the May!
  20. That made me laugh, Ed! Mind you, good job you're not in jolly olde England.......the Elf and Safety Police would've got you long before now!
  21. I thought heating sprue gave off toxic fumes, to the extent that in a recent Tamiya armour build I did Tamiya issued a warning against doing it unless using a particular "safe"sprue?
  22. Apologies for not posting any updates for quite a while......life got in the way yet again! However, in the last week or so I've finally managed to get some white top-coat on the Concorde and am enclosing some pictures of the result. This wasn't as problem-free as I would have hoped. The rattle can I used suddenly decided to splatter paint blobs all over the model, secondly the top coat reacted with the revell acrylic paint that I'd used in a couple of places, leaving a severe orange-peel effect. Both of these issues required me to wait several days for the top coat to dry before rubbing down and respraying. Anyway, here's some pics. The visor is not attached yet, only placed on the model for now. Engines are still masked at this stage. I had a problem unmasking the main windscreen, which you can see if you look closely in the final photo. The top coat of rattle can white didn't come off cleanly around the mask on the left hand screen, such that some of the paint surrounding the mask came off with it. What I should have done was to very carefully run a very sharp blade around the edges of the mask before removing it in order to cut the paint seal. I did that on the other windows and it worked fine. That leaves me with a little repair job on that one window, which I'm pondering about how to fix.
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