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PlasticMac

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  1. Hi there is a new AK Interactive IDF Uniform Colour set that has 6 colours and a basic painting guide on the back. Once you know what colours are suitable google is your friend for all the variations.
  2. May be late but try the newish AK Interactive IDF Uniform Colour Set. This has six colours that have all three uniform colours as well as boots and 2 webbing / accessory colours. (Lifecolor also has an IDF Easy Three set for the 3 IDF uniform colours.)
  3. Ive just taken some Tamiya White fine surface primer off a resin figure kit. I used a new to me product from Vantage Modelling Solutions its called Clean Slate rmvr 2.0. (Its available on ebay and while not cheap works just grand.) Basically all I had to do was pour some in a shallow dish and just cover the figure. (Use one just large enough for the figure to cut waste.) I let it stand for a few minutes then used an old brush to just work off anything that was still on the figure - removed 99.9% with minimal fuss and no damage to the resin. I used around 10%? of the 200ml bottle so fairly frugal, plus its not something you use every day. Its got my vote.
  4. I see there is a lot of questions about a good modelling knife, so I present my take on a good hobby knife. I had always used the round handled knives - swann morton and some others, but I always found they felt clumsy and that controlling them wasn't easy. Using just enough force was hard to gauge and I often overdid it and damaged the model or myself . Also as has been pointed out the round handles do roll off the desk often enough to be a worry. Then saw Pul Budjiks video on the bard parker dental knife and it was a revelation - except it was very very difficult and expensive to get one here in the UK. (Sister works at a dentist and they do use them, but they cost over £35.00 per handle so definitely a no go.) Not to be defeated I mooched around ebay and saw the answer to my dreams The Swann Morton No 6A handle. Would it work as I hoped? I ordered One to start and some blades. The answer was definitely a yes. Fits in your hand - comfortable very easy to handle and most importantly its easy to control the amount of strength needed from fine cuts to more brutal scraping or even downright hacking. Haven't cut myself even once since I've started using them. Also being flat sided they wont roll. You can get two flavours the No3 fitting for standard sized blades or the No4 for larger blades - I like the No4. I use 4 of them - one for each blade type I use. I am definitely happier with them.
  5. I agree wholeheartedly - I used to use thinners or water and then soap to clean my brushes and I was happy with the results. But then I found the Masters brush soap - All I can say is its chalk and cheese. This stuff deep cleans, shampoos and conditions all in one. ( I have some old reeves brushes 30 odd years or so and this made them come out almost like new. ) Also my newer and more expensive brushes are as good as the day I bought them. I do use it every time I clean though.
  6. Hi They are very very good - they have detailed point by point instructions and photographs with info of the paints ie Acyrlics or Oils etc used. Usually have 4 to 7 pages of detailed close ups and general views of a master at work. That said they are usually of larger scale 1:9th / 10th or 12th. A very good first buy that is a lot thicker on page count is their Scale Model Handbook WWII special Vol.2, this also has a lot more 35th scale figures and has some marvellous pieces about painting faces and eyes in that scale. In conclusion worth every penny as they have several masters teaching you amazing skills.
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