Bengalensis

Here is how the model is right now. All bodywork installed and all seams taken care of. I’m very surprised how my RM1699 decals look in these photos. They are printed with gold foil and looks bright in real life, matching the other gold decals very well, not at all dull like these pictures show. Oh well. There are now only a few exterior details to fit, and many many windows. But first there are other things to address. I really need to finish the exterior adverts. I had an idea which I wanted, and I have created all artwork except one that I can’t pin the colours on, a Cinzano advert on the rear panel. Maybe have to consider another one. Then I realised that the pair I had planned for the front probably are from 1962 and therefore too old for my model. Back to the drawing board… Also I’m wondering if my trusty old Alps MD5000 will be up to the task. Then there is a lot of washing and light weathering to do. So lots of work remains. About the bodywork, take your time and work slowly and carefully, test fit several stages ahead during the whole build and make fine adjustments if necessary. The parts do fit very well in my case, even after extensively cutting it up to make an RM. I felt it was good to really know exactly how every panel would be installed before it was time to do it “for real” so all the dry fitting early on probably paid of.

I should probably have the decal you need left over if you want it. I'll check tomorrow.

And so the major assemblies start to go together. I always try to test fit a few stages ahead at this point to ensure that the coming parts will fit well and that necessary touch in painting is not missed. With the lower roof installed I made sure that the left side wall will fit perfectly to the front and rear wall. And the top deck in place. Suddenly the model grew conciderably. It looks quite terrible like this, naked with no bodywork. As I have test fitted everything all the time I know it will change though.

Thanks. Yes indeed, a Gibson ticket machine. I think they were phased out in the early seventies or something like that.

Perhaps the responsible conductor would never leave his ticket machine and his badge unattended on the shelf like this, but anyway. I liked the detail and wanted it in the model. Maybe he or she is just outside? I have tried to add some more life to the interior with some added details. Tickets, news papers, cans, forgotten stuff… Our driver has tucked away his copy of todays paper under his seat.

We can now get proper ticket to Euston. Without an extra e.

I think you really need to fit the frames to the seats first so that they will be stable in the correct shape. That will also help to correct the shape of those that might be a bit bent. You will know that the seats are reasonably ok on their tabs on the side wall if the seats are well aligned from all views, and the alignment is more important than exactly how they sit on the tab. This was not much of a problem for me, with all the seats assembled with care they did fell nicely in place in even rows with some slight trimming. I first placed a tiny dap of 5 min epoxy in each leg recess and one on the side wall “shelf”, then put the completed seat in place, put a small weight on the seat cushion to hold down the seat, adjusted its alignment and lastly put a drop of super glue where the frame tab comes out (or almost out) through the outside wall. I think that it comes down to working slowly and carefully and let the job take the time it needs. Well build seats in nice even rows will set a bus interior apart.

It seems to be coming together nicely. I did my seats this way. It worked well for me and I would do the same again if I built another one. 1. Paint all parts separately, after thorough clean-up of seam lines and sprue attachment points. 2. Decals on the seats. 3. Matt varnish on seat decals. 4. Thin black wash between the two seat cushions. 5. Attach frames to seats, be careful and accurate in their fitting. Let glue dry (I used instant super glue). 6. Attach legs to seat bottoms, dry fit all first to ensure a perfect fit. Many legs will need trimming in their little slots so they slide down well in the correct position, this is important. Let glue dry. 7. Install scratched seat backs if this is opted for. 8. Now the finished seats are ready to install. Be careful to find out exactly how the frames and legs shall fit to the seats before starting, and ensure to assemble all seats likewise so ideally they can’t be told apart. If the parts are fitted correctly with the all legs sitting all the way into their correct position the completed seats will fit well. I only had to slightly trim all six right hand grab pole frames at the bottom where they sit on the side wall to get a good fit and nice even rows when I installed my seats. It does take a good deal of time to build the seats, but when they are fitted in their rows it pays off to having done it well. And yes, I’ll admit they did tension my patience…

I was just about to post a picture... . Good that you found the answer.

Could it be moisture that shows up here? How long did the decals dry before the varnish went on? What happens if you give one of the affected seats a thin coat of clear gloss varnish, once the current is thoroughly dry? If that works you might be able to have second go with another flat varnish afterwards. BTW, I used thin flat water based acrylic varnish on my seat decals. However, Revell have always been helpful to me with both parts and decals over the years, so I think you have good chances to get a replacement if you can't save them.

Very nicely done! I really like the new exhaust. Looks like the perfect road transport for a Spitfire pilot.

I’m very happy, and even humbled if my build is an inspiration to you guys. Great to hear. It is a very inspiring build, certainly one of the most rewarding and interesting I’ve done the last few years. More detail work on the interior have been done, and the top deck is now attached. The stage to fit the exterior body panels have arrived. I should have new pictures coming up soon. Regarding the rear hubcaps, the base for them is a 3D-print. I wish it was that simple, but it isn’t. They require quite some work after the printing process. My plan though is to make some little improvements on the current 3D-model and then make new to form the base for a mould for resin copies for dedicated RM-builders. But I can’t give a specific time plan tonight. ScalecCentral; you have PM.

When cutting plastic like this I mostly use either a hand fret saw with a thin fine metal blade in it, or the back side of a sharp Xacto knife scribing the cut deeper and deeper.

The staircase is now in place. It all fitted surprisingly well even after painting. Strange light in this picture that washes out all colour variations. The shelf in the cubby-hole looks a bit empty like this. Will have to fill that with something. Maybe this could fill the shelf when finished.

The Carpet Monster is an unforgiving creature... Try fitting a brand new bag in the vacuum cleaner and go over the whole area, a lot easier to fin the part in the cleaner then. Or make a filter over the hose end of a nylon stocking. Both works.

Thanks a lot. Yes, you are right, this bus is relatively new. It left the factory new in september -63 and was taken into service on route 14 in november that year . I tend to think my model is perhaps summer -64 or a bit later, in quite good but used condition. Some areas of my weahtering may be a bit too much for that, but never mind. Although I should perhaps try and do something to that upper deck roof.

No, there shouldn’t be an e there in the end of Euston, my mistake. Glad it was found out now and not at a later stage. Here are the new blinds I printed tonight.

I have to admit that I have cheated with the chewing gum under the seats, there are none. But to compensate I did a few smudges stuck between floor boards. Hopefully the look convincing enough.

I have spent the better part of the day fitting the seats and trying to get some realistic look to it all. When you come to the point of seat fitting, take your time and dry fit every single seat in the position it will be installed in to ensure all line up nicely. I had to slightly trim all six right hand “pillar” frames at the bottom where they sit on the small side wall “shelf” to get a good fit and nice even rows. I have tried to give the whole thing a slightly used look with some variation according to different seat popularity and what they may have been subjected to, drawing inspiration from some real photos. I’m not sure how trustworthy it really is, but I don’t really dare to mess with it too much either.

Phew, scary moment there. Both glasses out safely with no damage whatsoever! All cleaned up, new blinds being printed tonight. Thanks everyone for all nice comments!

Damn, you are right. My two reference photos of this blind are slightly blurred, but I should have checked this better. I have fitted the glass already, but only with Kristal Klear... with some luck I can get them off... I will have to try and correct it directly. Good that you spotted it.

Driver’s cab section joined the chassis. Here I choose to only glue it against the bottom floor at this point, again I hope to gain some possibility to slight adjustments when fitting the body panels together. Some thin black wash lines between the different seat cushions help up the look. Once all are installed I hope to be able to create a little wear and some more life to them. Here I hope it shows clearly why I add rear panels to the seats. The seat factory has now closed and the work force now have to recover the whole evening with a good bottle of whine… The seats are tedious repetitive work.

The staircase received some initial weathering, some more will follow when it’s finally mounted. The top stairs on each half are not glued yet. Bottom deck roof. And the top deck roof. Top floor coming together.

The route number box is not glued yet, just checking how things fit. That red handle under the roof sits at a slight angle outwards on purpose. Body number decal. The front and rear route blinds are on. Front and rear sections are also coming together. The rear license plate is somewhat of a compromise as Revell’s recess does not seem to have the correct dimensions. That could possibly have been reworked, but I really didn’t notice until working with the decal art work.

I’m making good progress with the sub assemblies now. At this point I strongly recommend to only glue the body section with the bonnet hinges along the inner edge to the front interior wall. I found during my taped up dry build that it is good to be able to tweak this section just a little back and forth. It may be more important in my case as I have cut up and messed with so many parts in the RM-conversion process, but this way the side wall does not have to fit against two firmly fixed body panels when time comes for that. Here is stupid mistake not to repeat if you are building an older bus like me. The panel on which the black seating capacity is written should have been removed and sanded flat. I only discovered that when all paint etc was done, and never worked up inspiration to start all over again… There will be some light weathering to the handles and the rest when the model is more complete. More interior sections. If you are building according to the instructions, watch up here. Revell has drawn this handle pointing backwards in the bus which I never see in my references. It fits well the way it’s supposed to sit so I guess they messed up the drawings.