Bengalensis
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Posts posted by Bengalensis
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Better luck with this batch of the stuff. I have never used it so have no experience, but it seems like the previous had become old and useless.
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I think I can make out "AUTOL(EC)" and possibly "BATTERY MASTER (SWITCH) from the original photo source. "Autolec Battery Master Switch" would make sence, but somewhere is probably a definitive photo...
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@Toftdale @Neddy @klubman01 @JeroenS @galaxyg @keefr22 @Ben Brown @Fnick @Spiny
Thanks a lot gentlemen for all kind praise. I hope I can finish off the paint job to the same level in the new year.
15 hours ago, Spiny said:I also have to say that I'm intrigued by that large stash sitting on the shelves in the background, particularly as there seem to be many examples of the same kit (looks like a Tamiya box with a blue car on it
Ah, tis only but a corner of one stash shelf, no problems!
Mmmm...
15 Tamiya Alpine A110...
Actually I do have problems and issues, but don't tell anyone...
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While I have been waiting for the test piece with red tinted clear to dry I have been thinking about the interior. There is a grey stitching in several places. It's not prominent but still makes a lot of difference. Some of it is engraved in the parts, but it's not like it can be painted to look good. The idea of using a white or light grey coloured "dry" pencil occurred to me, and my better half actually had a set of such pens tucked away, so I took the risk and tried. I'm very happy with the result, even if not much is seen in the photos. It's quite faint and not super precise, but it gives the needed impression.
The door pieces then received the decals for the window and mirror controls. I added a tiny piece of 0,5 mm Evergreen rod for the mirror control and painted it dark grey as it's the only piece really protruding from the surface. It's hardly visible...
The red tinted clear was taking it's time to dry. The 96 hours wasn't enough, neither was a full week, even if it's gets harder and harder. I could still make a faint mark of a finger print, which to my surprise disappeared a few hours later. I had enough and needed to continue my test. Sanding dry with 1200 grit was difficult, it was easy to soften and damage the surface, but wet sanding with great care was a success. So any dust specs should be able to be fixed.
I mixed a little of my usual 2K clear and thinned it down, then gave the test piece three light coats, just to get the surface back. No crazy reactions and all seem fine. I made the decision to go ahead with the paint process and give the final red tinted clear a good time on a warm shelf until it's fully cured, sometime into the new year, before continuing.
So first the base coat was sprayed.
And a little later the tinted clear went on. I find it difficult to photograph under my work bench light.
It's a little better in sunlight from the window.
So at last the red pieces are now resting on a warm and cosy top shelf in the living room, and I expect they will be sitting there for at least two weeks.
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All different parts are coming together well. Will be interesting to see the development of the bodyshell.
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That's a very nice colour combination for this car, it will look great!
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It's taking shape, the tank look good placed on the truck!
As for regulations on exhaust and such I think you need to look at Dutch and/or EG (EU) regulations for a tank truck of this vintage if it's in the Van Dordt fleet.
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It's looking serious now!
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Now we're talking clamping! Good stuff! This may be a lot of work, but it makes a large improvement. I'm sure it will be worth it all in the end. Good work to bite into it!
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Thanks a lot for this input. I was a bit concerned by the "inspired but not identical" when I read it, in conjunction with the slot car focus. Still, this should form a useful base for further work. Actually there are deidicated "accurate" resin kits that are much more off than this... Will be interesting to see what decals you get, and what you build of it all eventually.
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It seems I provided quite a bit of work by not keeping quiet...
Sorry... But I think it will be worth it in the end.
I think I have a descent stock of sheet styrene to fill in with if need be...
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31 minutes ago, Toftdale said:
but as you can see I loved every minute of it - Andy.
An excellent day at work!
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15 minutes ago, Toftdale said:
If you're trying to get a tight bend, then you only want to heat a very localised spot. If you use hot water or a hair drier you end up heating the whole pipe and find it very difficult to get a neat bend. Personally I prefer a tea light over a lighter as this means you have both hands free. I also find that rolling the pipe over the flame helps get the heat evenly into it. Try using some old sprue to practice on, good luck - Andy
I'd second that, I usually do exactly the same.
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On 08/12/2022 at 22:39, Toftdale said:
So now the engine is better than new (fortunately no other damage occurred), ready for many high revving miles ahead - Andy
That's good, we need more revs!
8 minutes ago, Anteater said:Yes, that's pretty much nail on head. It's a fundamentally good engine that was hobbled by the accountants. Built properly with decent aftermarket service parts, it should be bob on.
Aahh, those accountants at it again...
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Some more detail painting done and a little interior assembly started. The seats are not finished and only dry fitted here to have the glued seat belt locks drying in the right place.
The first decals were applied. I had an internal debate whether to apply the centre screen decal or not as the screen is empty and black when the car is resting switched off, but then so is also the left instrument, which would look stupid on the model (as it does for real). Ignition on then.
The mirror is glued to the screen with a little Kristal Kleer and drying.
The dash board is completed and finished I think.
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2 hours ago, keefr22 said:
Some very neat detail painting again Jörgen, nice work showing that tedious masking was well worth it. Those wheels look great too.
Must be a bit of a logistical nightmare spraying the real cars with that red paint, needing two different thinnners. But I guess Mazda can afford dedicated spraying equipment for both - but I bet aftermarket body repairers curse them!
Colour does look lovely though!
Keith
Thanks a lot Keith!
I've heard stories from painters who had to learn to repair these red paints when Mazda begun to release them, but now I have seen some very good local work. I just hope I don't have to rely on it myself...
2 hours ago, colin said:Most manufacturers have acrylic base coats and lacquer top coats which are clear nowadays. Only way to get a more resilient protective top coat for the paint underneath
Yes, I just wasn't expecting it in a paint set like this, but you live and learn.
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That's very nice, especially in only two hours OOB!
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I had a feeling the test paint would not be completely dry overnight and sure enough it was easy to put a finger print in the surface when trying on an edge. Fine, the instructions in the paint set seems to indicate OK to use after 40 min (of a small stone chip repair) but polish only after 96 hours. So I will leave my test piece at least four days before continuing.
All my test fitting indicates the modern Tamiya precision further on, so I have fully assembled the chassis now. As I'm not interested in rotating wheels I have drilled out the poly caps inside the hubs a little to give the wheels a loose fit so they will be easy to glue in place with epoxy in the end.
The wheels are also finished.
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3 minutes ago, JeroenS said:
@Bengalensis' I'm going to try to cut ribs of 1mm sheet because that's the thickest I have in stock, and build it up with those, just glue them all close together, then bend sheet over it, or maybe drink can material.
Sounds like a solution. Just make sure you have enough material around the edge to sand the radious in the end.
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40 minutes ago, JeroenS said:
Don't worry, get as carried away as you like
Thanks for explaining. I'm not an engineer but I understand the basics behind your explanation. Now I just have to think of a way to do this without spending the entire week using filler and sanding. And, not ruining what I have now. Hmmm.
Ha, I might have occupied your coming week then
I wonder if I might have tried cutting the gable walls from 2-3 mm thick styrene (to allow for the radius) but slightly longer than the original, bent them to the desired curvature, glued them in place and then added filler in the resulting gap, then sanded the radius all round. There are several ways.
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1 hour ago, JeroenS said:
That looks like a beautiful colour.
Thanks, It's stunning in real life, but it will never be that visible on such small areas as on the model.
9 minutes ago, malpaso said:The Mazda racing orange touch up I got was two little bottles of orange paint and clear finish - and both clean up with water! So presumbly acrylic and why motor thinners turned it to gel?
Yes, that is indeed the case with my red metallic base, water based acrylic, but it was a surprice it was not the same as the transparent red clear. I was fully expecting both paints to be the same basic formula, but not in this case.
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2 hours ago, JeroenS said:
Thanks Jörgen! I'm not 100% sure what you mean by gables, but my guess is you mean the front and back walls?
I've noticed the domed shape on the tanks I've seen, but I've more or less ignored it because I have had no ideas how to do that in a nice way! But you're right, it could definitely still be added, and now would be the time.
Could you explain what you mean by "more radious between the tank mantle and gables"? I think you're talking about 2 separate things, right? The domed shape and the radious thing.
Yes, the front and back walls.
Those walls are very seldom flat, if ever, they are curved in at least one direction (like it looks in your museum photo) and often bulged or domed all round. (No, I'm not 100% sure about the correct english terms). This makes them a lot stronger, just like a round, or oval, tank mantle is a lot stronger than a square one with flat walls. Basic theory; the more dome the stronger the gable, and lesser need for a radius in the mantle joint as it's incorporated in the gable. Or how I shall express it.
The radius I'm talking about is along the edge of the front and back walls where they join the mantle. You have a quite sharp edge there now, which makes this edge a very weak spot, needing more reinforcement added. That's why there is a notable radius in your musem photo. I guess it might bee a 2 or 3 mm radious in 1/24 scale in that photo?
The strongest tank in theory would be a circular mantle with half circular spheres as gables, but then it's not the most storage effective in occupied space, like on the back of your truck, so compromises are then sought to make it more storage effective, but still acceptable in strength vs. material thickness (wheight). Possible internal structures adds further possibilities and are often a must in mobile tanks to stop the liquid moving around during braking, acceleration and cornering. Your tank may very well be divided into three or more fully separated tanks inside in real life, but now I'm moving further away from the tanks I have designed more often.
If you're still not sure what I mean I can knock up a 3D-model to point it out on.
Yes, I get carried away
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Looking forward to see more!
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2 minutes ago, klubman01 said:
Looks really good. Hope it works just as well on the Mazda. (BTW, is that a GT40 being used a s a test piece?)
Trevor
Yes indeed, it's the remains of another poor GT40 shell that donated the sills/tank covers, latches and other details for other GT40 projetcs...
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Orlandoo Hunter Land Rover Defender 1/32 (with RC)
in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Posted
That looks impressive, especially for the size!