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Adrian Hills

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Everything posted by Adrian Hills

  1. As a Canadian citizen I think I should look into this one and vote for it in the bunfight. I have a Junkers 52 (single engine and J Bot decals) and a Canuck Junkers W34 - So count me in
  2. It is really nice to hear so many good words on my build. Makes me want to build more. Cheers Adrian
  3. Vickers 432 high altitude interceptor. 1/72 Kora resin kit. Out of the box with various aftermarket decals . The 432 was designed as a high altitude interceptor to combat the intruding Luftwaffe high altitude reconnaissance and bomber aircraft such as the diesel engined Junkers 86s. The prototype aircraft, which was to be pressurised, had various problems with both stability and engines. Vickers had a lot on their plate at this time in both production and development and decided not to pursue the project. The Kora kit was reasonable with the usual drawbacks of resin m
  4. Had a go at the quick and dirty solution by refining a bit of cured Milliput. I always have a bit left over so form the scrap into a shape 'that might be useful one day'. Here you see the bench vice holding the bit I have shaped for pull moulding. This is an example of what it looks like. I do multiple pulls and use the best one. This was a very quickly produced first pull to see if I was going in the right direction. I then refined the plug twice more to get a lower profile but with slightly wider base. Cutting canopies at each step. The plastic was taken out of the recy
  5. Hi Alex, I'm now dremelling down a cured piece of Milliput to the approximate shape to do exactly as you suggest ! Cheers mate
  6. Just finishing off so trimmed canopy to near size before offering it up. And lo and behold it fell in the hole because it is too small F##!!+### !!!! Rather than lob the bloody thing out of the window I am now writing to the Pope for beatification - as I must have the patience of a Saint !!
  7. Nearly there. The Xtracrylic yellow has crazed on me. Sprayed according to instructions only water added as thinner. Decals with kit were very bright incorrect colours so used a variety of aftermarket ones. Note the anachronistic fuselage roundel. The kit came with a standard C type with yellow surround as painted on the real aircraft in later life. However, there was a flying photoshoot early on in the aircraft's career and the red in the middle was too small and towards the proportion of an A type. To emulate this difference I put a standard A on top of
  8. I have had Green stuff in the past but found it shrank too much. One technique a late friend taught me is mixing a thin styrene glue with Tamiya putty. Maybe I should have used that as you can put it on with a paintbrush
  9. Thanks for that info Steve, will get some of that putty
  10. Hi Pat, what is PPP ? please. In time with enough thickness of paint the smaller pinholes are gone/disguised. For bigger holes Dave Swindell's technique of drilling out and fitting small rod (I used stretched spru) works well. I'm using this build to get a handle on resin kits. Later in the year I have a build of a Blackburn B20 and a Czech Master resin Short S23 and really want to a good job on that so am noting various useful comments. THANKS
  11. Did some masking and hosed it down with a bit of Gunze Dark Green. I like to try and get the mask off as fast as possible so the paint can flow a bit and hopefully not have quite such a sharp edge for demarcation. This is a risky business as it is easy to put a thumb print in the wet paint - as I have done in the time honoured way. This last photo is an attempt to illustrate that the upper surface colours are below the wings on the engine nacelles. Quite unusual
  12. Thanks for that Marklo. I have been using CA as a filler. It seems to look a bit better so will continue as is. Cheers A
  13. Robert, I will be doing the half clear roof and adding extra cars and maybe a couple of figures. As you can see from the photo below one of the roofs has a distinctly yellow hue. That is the one from the kit I bought about 20 years ago whereas the one from 1973 is clear - just needs a good polish to remove minor scratches. Barring me making a cock up during my build, the sealed bag of clear parts and all other spare bits are yours
  14. One last throw of the dice. Filled in the top of the nacelles with Tamiya putty and then soft sanded with course emery with a little tickling up with fine. The results are marginally better and I will leave it at that. Hope to get the green on later today
  15. Well, I’ve been wanting to do it for a while, like thirty years. I have a lot on so will use my 1959 1/79 scale Mk I Blenheim - for ‘Britain First’. Just a small matter of lowering the wing and a bit of silver paint
  16. The resin on top of the starboard engine nacelle has gone soft. I have cleaned it up as best as I can. I even used Dave's technique on one hole and it worked well. However, life is too short and I have plenty of other more interesting and less frustrating builds to get on with. I will mask it up, spray green and yellow and finish the model. It'll be one of those I will hide in the model cabinet and say "Over there at the back is a Vickers 432, and moving swiftly on..... Actually I think it is down to Flouridation of the water, an international communist plot to sa
  17. Robert, And if you still want the bits, you only have to ask
  18. Hi Robert, I will be doing the SRN 4 for the Britmodeller Group Build "Unarmed". It starts on my birthday April 17th and finishes 8th of August. The inventory of my other kit shows that I have all the parts needed - including straight flooring which is quite distorted in the 1973 kit. I will take on board what you have said concerning the alignment of the roof and walls. That will no doubt be easier if I use the flattest floors. I do quite a few modifications myself. For instance last year I converted a 1/96 Lancaster to the first manifestation of the Manchester with 80ft wi
  19. The parts missing are relatively minor and a spare roof might help you too
  20. Hi Robert, I will be building an SRN4 to complete in August. I’m using a kit I have had since 1973 and did an inventory last night to find thirty parts missing. Fortunately I have another kit to take the parts from. The upshot of this is that I will have the majority of another kit spare - including all the skirt bits. If you would like the rest of the kit then PM me and I can send them to you. As I said you will have to wait til August but at least you can plan knowing you will have enough skirt parts etc. Cheers Adrian
  21. HMMM WTF ! After filling holes with Mr Surfacer, rubbing down and repainting I'm obviously doing something wrong - But what ?
  22. Hi Steve and Dave. Thank you for your advice. The paint I am using is thinned Gunze acrylic so was hoping it didn't affect surface. Actually I think the grey just showed up holes that weren't apparent with the uncoated plastic. I have had the perforation problem before when spraying Alclad on an FM resin Albatross and a Bristol Brabazon so was aware of incompatabilities. Not sure what to use later this year on my 1/72 Czech Master resin Short S23 !?? Dave, the holes are, but one, very small pin pricks but will use your suggested technique of plugging with some stretched spru. La
  23. Anyone got a method to deal with these holes would be really useful
  24. Decided to go with Urban's colour reference (IPMS Stockholm) for Gunze for Ocean Grey which is labelled as Medium Sea Grey. Fine for me. What isn't fine is a problem I have had before of the paint eating the resin so both engines are full of holes. Any suggestions ? Obviously needs to be rubbed down, but how do I fill the holes ? I seem to remember Mr Surfacer was used on a previous resin which made things worse !!
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