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Michaelvk

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Michaelvk last won the day on January 9 2014

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About Michaelvk

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  1. Well, I used Alclad hot metal colours for the heat staining, but you could just as well use Tamiya clear colours too. The Alclads are specifically made for this purpose and are ready to spray right out of the bottle. The Tamiya acrylics (or Mr Hobby, whichever your poison) would need a fair bit of diluting with X20a, IPA or even lacquer thinners. Mr Color thinners work beautifully, but are a bit stinky. I’ve kind of drifted away from forums, mostly because I put all my photos on Photobucket which then ruined itself by charging for hotlinking (like a sucker I’ve since ponies up, but the damage has been done) I’ve consolidated everything onto a Facebook page (linky: https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1951277155155314&ref=content_filter) , but am now also doing some YouTube videos, explaining my how and why when it comes to building my models.. Linky to the channel if you’re interested: https://www.youtube.com/user/insomniavfx What also has slowed things down a little is my 17 month old lad, who gets a lot of my attention.. But things do still get build. Just a little slower than before..
  2. I guess it's back to the Revell AT-AT with all its foibles, I suppose. Such a pity. I would've easily have gotten two of DML's offerings..
  3. Something that made us all excited was Dragon's announcement and 3D printed tests of their Star Wars kits.. But they've gone worryingly dark on any updates. Am I right in thinking they've got licensing issues?
  4. Thank you! If I remember correctly I first started with Alclad aluminium, then bands of Alclad hot exhaust blue, then washes of Citadel devlan mud and nuln oil (sparingly with the latter).. i really should write these processes down..
  5. Lovely build and an excellent way to do prop blur. Those cartoonish PE ones just look ridiculous to me. This is a far better solution.
  6. What a shame.. She was gorgeous.. And tragically fitting the RNZAF rounded has a flightless bird on it...
  7. Thank you! lets put it this way.. They're airbrush ready and I did the camo pattern freehand with the only masking being the demarcation with the Sky type S..
  8. Well, it took me all of six months, but here she is.. Airfix' 1:48 Spitfire Mk.I. I used a HGW harness and painted it with Alclad Mil-Spec, which, apparently, is as close as dammit to the real wartime deal.. One day I may find the inclination to add an aerial.. Pics taken under sketchy lighting with a phone.. I used Vallejo for the interior colour and find it a bit too green for my tastes. The Alclad Mil-Spec is a much closer match (on the hatch)
  9. Apparently 49% of the airframe was welded nickel steel. The raised panel lines may be weld seams.. Source: http://www.airforce-technology.com/projects/mig-31/
  10. For £3 to £4 more you can get the vastly superior, though less playable, Bandai Y-wing. However the rerelease of the classic large scale AT-AT and Imperial shuttle is great news..
  11. Screen accurate is a bit of a tricky one, as prior to CGI there were various sizes which varied in detail. With this kit, however, the sidewalls are too tall, especially compared to the Finemolds/Revell masterclass(?) version. I'd say it's a more accurate version than the old AMT/ERTL one.
  12. I painted the parts on the sprues prior to assembly. It lends itself very well to that. There were a few decals that needed placing, but overall there was zero masking involved, which is nice.
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