Grant

This is my long drawn out build of a 1/144th resin kit. It has finally got a couple of coats of LAG. So tomorrow it is out with the masking tape and then I get to spray everyones favourite colour - WHITE! cheers Grant

Well it is finally in the paint shop! (My time has been taken up building clocks for some special birthdays recently.) The 10 control 'horns' survived the spraying, so looking forward to putting on the control wires next. cheers Grant

Cascamite is good stuff but a bit of over kill for this task. I used ordinary evo-stick wood glue on my little Dr. 1 propeller. It sanded fine and doesn't show up, though of course I am working at a proper scale cheers Grant

I thought of you might reply to that! Grant

That's what we like to see! People diving in at the deep end. Good luck Peter cheers Grant

Oh my! That is a stunning model. The engine, the paint job, the rigging and the decals all superb. cheers Grant

Very neat interior. I always think that console should be the other way around for some reason. Guess I am loosing it already. cheers Grant

Yellow huh? It is what should happen on the real thing, but don't think it every will. It will be nice to see it model form though. Good luck! Grant

They were on ARC, but since the problems and no direct loading of pics they have all gone. I'll have to set up a little web page and put up a link. Be a while yet. cheers Grant

When I lit up my 1/72 EH101, I simply ran wires (in the insulation) down the undercarriage legs, like brake lines, then between the wheels I stripped the insulation off and had the bare wire rest on a drawing pin head on the base. This powers the model nicely without any noticeable heating problems. On a single wheel unit you might have to be cleverer at hiding it. What about a brake line into the wheel hub, then have a pin in the tyre that reaches the wire in the hub. That way you wouldn't see any bare wire. Or, as the scale is so big, you could actually plug the power supply into the a/c via the appropriate hole in the side of the model and have the power supply in a piece of ground equipment... HTH Grant

That looks good, and remember they start each stage looking nice and clean! I got me one of those in Safari trim. A nice little kit. cheers Grant

Yep. Spotted that Rowan. Order placed last night. Went for the higher powered version, but wasn't aware of the outward differences in appearance. I just hope I can do it justice with a decent paint job. cheers Grant

Silly question really... I'll have some on digital and a whole load more on negative. Probably more of the ramp than the mobile ATC. I'll have a rummage. cheers Grant

My early work was always so messy. Nice clean canopy for only 8. keep up the good work. Grant

Dave - Didn't know that, and it is very welcome news. peebeep - Thanks for the photo. It looks very like the artwork I have, so should do just nicely. Well done Gents. That's one less problem to think about. cheers Grant

Hi Peeps, The molding of the engine pots on my little Dr1 is terrible. I spotted some Aeroclub rotary engines on Hannants, but there were no pictures and I don't think any are exactly the right one for the Dr1. Close enough would do, but I need to see one to decide which would be best.. Anybody have any thoughts or experience of replacement 1/72 rotary engines? Any bright ideas for scratchbuilding one at that scale would also be welcome. TIA Grant

It is a good point you raise here, but I think it only applies to just doped a/c. If it is painted in any way then won't the effect be lost? I can see for really early, pre-WW1, a/c with clear doped fabric that some form of highlight for the ribs and longerons could be good, but by the time it is camouflaged probably not. Grant

I struggle getting tape to stay in place while I cut it. Even with a NEW blade. BMF is a good substitute as it takes less effort to cut. But my favourite method, for parallel frames is to use painted decal paper - just cut to size and put on like a decal. No mess, no fuss and no cut marks in the canopy. cheers Grant

It's a brave man who hand paints a prop! (and it floats in mid air?!?!) cheers Grant

I must admit, ALCLAD chrome looks pretty AND chrome - not bad for a paint. The flash reflecting proves the point! What's the motor? cheers Grant

Neat job with the PE so far. Klear is OK, but the bond doesn't take kindly to knocking about. Like Steve I would recommend the Blu-Tac on a cocktail stick for holding the small bits and a slowish setting CA. I must admit I find PE one of those mood things. If I am in the mood, I can do it, otherwise it appears impossible and I have to walk away. Good luck Grant

Gary - that's a relief , although I do have a Brisfit and an RE8 waiting... Tango - I did try and be nice and wait for her to wash hair then brush it, so I could raid the hairbrush. But one day she just walked into the modeling room, went OW! and gave me a clump of hair! Daft sausage. As for doing this at 1/72 - I don't know, I didn't plan this. There are times when I start a kit, and the mood just takes, and I have to do all the extra bits - you know? I blame all the excellent stuff that appears on Britmodeller. Sometimes it is depressingly good, other times - you just got to give it a go. cheers Grant

Don't they look the biz. They remind me - I must get on with my FW24. cheers Grant

I am confused. I haven't bought any Gothas - that I am aware of. Though I have just got some Lycra thread to give that a go, as my daughter goes off to Uni. in a couple of weeks. cheers Grant

Wandering through the local wood shop last weekend, I came across these packs of venner off cuts, £6 for a whole bunch of colours. Hmm, I thought, I feel a wooden propeller coming on. 5 strips of wood glued together to back a rough billet, then sanded it with paper and a Tescos nail file/board thingy. I reckon this will look just the job on the front. cheers Grant