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Diggers11

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About Diggers11

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  1. Nice end result. I use Stynylrez to prime my models and had similar problems with it peeling when masked. I found that if you make sure the surface is clean and not too polished it sticks really well. The problem lies in grease from your hands transferring to the model through handling. Once ready to prime I wash the model with warm water and detergent then rinse with cold water and dry. Then just before priming I wipe down it down with 90% IPA while wearing disposable gloves. Leave the IPA to evaporate, then spray the primer. From cleaning the surface to after priming I never touch the surface with a bare hand. Also de-tacking the masking tape helps.
  2. Thank you all for your positive comments. The exhaust staining is just a thin black and brown mix airbrushed carefully at low pressure.
  3. Hi, Here is a selection of photos of my latest completion. Its built using the 2014 weekend edition of Eduard's kit. The kit is one of Eduard's older tools so not up to their current standard. Unfortunately as a weekend kit it lacks the Photoetch which presumably came with previous boxings, resulting it a lack of cockpit detail and in particular the main gear door actuators. These issues were remedied with a bit of scratch building using plasticard and albion alloys micro tubing. The kit does come with a set of Eduard's Superfabric seat harnesses. These work alright but are a bit flat because the buckles are printed the same as the straps. I prefer their Photoetch belts in general or making my own. The model is mainly airbrushed using Hataka red line paints for the camouflage scheme. It was my first time using these acrylic paints. I found they worked well with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner with Vallejo Flow Improver although there was still an occasional issue with tip dry. The star on the cowling is supplied in the kit as decals but I decided to spray it instead to better match the forward part of the cowling and spinner. I also had to touch up the white wing stripes as the decals were too short as I positioned them. To weather the model I used a combination of Ammo by Mig Panel line washes, Tamiya weathering sets and chalk pastel dust. I used Ammo by Mig Lucky matt varnish to give it its final coat. The aerial is made from Uschi van der Rosten rigging thread, painted aluminium. The Canopy was dipped in AK Interactive's Gauzy Glass Coat to improve its clarity. I had trouble in the past with this stuff drying to quickly and not allowing it to level out. That's until I decided to put the bottle in the fridge for ten minutes before using it. It may sound weird but it seems to make it slightly less viscous so it levels out before drying. Here is the cockpit precariously posed before the fuselage got closed up. Everything behind the seat bulkhead is scratch built apart from the yellow bottle and so is some of the detail on the cockpit side walls. This kit was originally designed to use photoetch for detail so it lacks moulded alternatives unlike more modern Eduard kits. I think it predates Eduard's Profipack/weekend edition philosophy. Accuracy wise the kit seems to match reasonably well to the references I could find online. Although I did reshape the wing tips and extend the tail wheel opening rearwards to better match the real aircraft. Hope you enjoy! Mark.
  4. I think I would prefer spreading Humbrol Filler on my toast! I can't remember where I heard the idea of using Marmite for chipping, but I have used it a couple of times and I like the effect. It gives a slightly different effect than salt, maybe more of a harder edge and the chips are larger. Fortunately it washes off easily leaving no residue behind and no smell either. Thanks again for your comments. Mark.
  5. Hi, Here is a selection of photos of my recent completion. This is Zvezda's really good 1/72 MiG-29 (9-13) kit completed using one of the decal schemes included. The build was pretty much 'out of the box' except for Eduard's SS555 Zoom photoetch set and the pitot probe made from Albion Alloys brass telescopic tube set. The model was painted in the main using Ammo by Mig acrylic paints (A.MIG-212 FS 26373 Silver Grey & A.MIG-213 FS 24277 Green) after a priming of Grey Stynylrez. Unfortunately the Ammo paints did not work to well with Tamiya's X20A thinner, resulting in the paint being extremely soft and peeled easily when masked or handled. After a lot of work removing paint from the affected areas I repeated most of the painting, this time I used Vallejo airbrush thinner instead. I am unsure if this solved the issue but it did seem to improve it, but from then on I was very careful when handling and masking the model. I also used Mr Hobby's H305 FS36118 for the radome and other dielectric panels. Many other paints were obviously used during the build but I wont mention them all. The canopy was a slight issue because of the plastic it was made from, it seemed a bit rubbery and springy and was too wide for the fuselage. I think that as the part had cooled after injection it had relaxed slightly and this resulted in it being misshapen. I fixed this by using masking tape to squeeze it to the correct width then using a hair dryer I uniformly heated the canopy then left it a few seconds to cool. Once the tape was removed the canopy held its new shape. The canopy was later dipped in AK interactive's Gauzy Glass Coat to improve its clarity. Once the model was sealed with Tamiya X-22 gloss decaling could commence and what a long job it was. Fortunately some of the stencils were grouped together on the same decal but there was still many to add. Zvezda decals are not the best quality in terms of printing as some exhibited missing areas. They are thinner than I am used to and they like to fold themselves up in multiple direction if allowed. I only had a couple of stencils that went wrong. Weathering was kept simple consisting of Ammo by Mig panel line wash and some chipping using a dull yellow to represent the primer showing through on the composite parts and Ammo's Flat Aluminium for the metal parts. The model received several extremely light coats of Ammo's Lucky Matt varnish before some oil steaks where added with some more of the panel line wash and Tamiya's weathering powder. I also blended some light grey pastel dust into the larger decals to tone them down and make them better match the rest of the model before adding a final misted matt coat. The canopy had its pale pink sealant added using painted clear decal paper. A few photo etch sensors such as the 'angle of attack' vanes, 'ILS antenna' and temperature probes were carefully placed in the correct position making the model tricky to pickup. I used a little bit of artistic license on the centre drop tank, first giving it a coat of Vallejo aluminium metal colour. Then I sponged on marmite where I wanted some chipping. This was then over sprayed with the underside colour. Once dry the marmite can be washed off leaving a patchy chipped tank, which was weathered using similar techniques to the rest of the airframe . A similar effect was achieved on the exhaust using various metallics and Tamiya clear blue and orange. This is a great kit from Zvezda with a couple of small negatives including the butt joint wing tips and the wrong shape forward strakes on the R-27's (looking at the later SMT boxing they seem to have fixed them) which I replaced with plasticard. Hope you enjoy! Mark.
  6. I try to keep the weathering light because I'm not really confident what to do at that stage of the build, so I don't try anything too difficult or technical. Normally just a pin wash, a little bit of chipping and then maybe some pastel dust or Tamiya weathering set. to finish. I do tend to pre-shade then after the base colour add some tonal variation using a lightened mix of the same colour. The wing lights are as they come in the kit, just painted silver with Tamiya Clear red and blue painted on top. The explosive cord is moulding on the inside of the canopy. Unfortunately it is raised instead of recessed, otherwise I could have treated it like a panel line and used the pin wash technique. Instead I had to carefully paint it by hand. I used acrylic (Ammo by Mig) so once dry I could scratch off any mistakes and tidy it up with a sharpened cocktail stick. Once happy with it I dipped it in AK Interactive gauzy glass coat. I couldn't use a cocktail stick to clean up the paint work if I didn't the other way around. Mark.
  7. Thank you all again for your comments. A few of you have praised the cockpit and asked how I did it. The truth is, its mainly just as it comes in the kit, embellished with plasticard for the cockpit walls (not really visible in the photos). I dry brushed a lightened version of the base colour on the edges and any surface detail. The instrument panel is just the kit decals which I think are a lot more detailed than Airfix include in some of there 1/72 kits. With the added benefit of Revell's panels having raised and recessed detail instead of just being flat. If I remember correctly I gave the cockpit an enamel wash (Ammo by Mig Panel line wash), then gave it a matt coat. The dials on the instrument panels were given a drop of Microscale Krystal Klear to give them a glass effect. The kit actually has really good detail it just needs the red plastic covered over and the flash removed to notice it. I chose this scheme as I think it makes the aircraft look completely different to the gloss black Hawk's of today. It doesn't seem as big of a leap from the Jet Provosts and Gnats that came before. Mark.
  8. Thank you all for your very kind words. It just goes to show that even when builds go wrong (the red paint peeled off when removing masking tape!), with a bit (maybe a lot) of work it can be turned around. Mark.
  9. Hi Mikey, Wow this build has progressed a lot since I last checked in. Its now painted and decaled! You have already got your next project lined up I see. I finally finished my Revell Hawk and posted it in the "Ready for Inspection" section. I don't know how it took me so long. Mark.
  10. Hi Everyone, This is the first time I have posted a model in the RFI section. As the title suggests this is the recent 1/72 tool Hawk from Revell (04921). The kit is good despite surprising amounts of flash for its age and bright red plastic (well it is a Red Arrows kit after all). As the kit only includes the very early short fin fillet and curved rear of the fuselage, I decided to complete it as XX164 of the Central Flying School, RAF Valley 1979. This meant I had to modify the kit seats to add the wider headbox. These were completed with homemade masking tape belts. I also lengthened the intake scoops behind the canopy, as these are too short in the kit. Various other details were scratch built like the pitot tube (albion alloys brass tube) and underside antennas (plasticard). The kit features no intake trunking, so these were blocked off with covers scratch built also from plasticard, referencing photos online. The moulded in beacons on the spine and ahead of the airbrake were replaced with offcuts of the clear sprue, sanded to shape. Photos online suggested that this aircraft lacked the blade antenna on the spine in its early days, so I left it off. The main decals are from Xtradecal's X72-166 set and the stencils are from the X72-168 set from the same company. The model was primed with UMP white followed by Mr Hobby's White and Light Aircraft Grey. The red was Revell Aqua Gloss Fiery Red. After some light weathering in was coated with Ammo by Mig Lucky Varnish Satin. The canopy detonation cord was hand painted as the detail is raised on the inside. I have plenty more Hawk decals left from the Xtradecal sets so I will have to build some more In the future. I hope you enjoy. Mark.
  11. Great work! I built the Finnish Gnat version a while ago and I thought it was a really great kit. Your build hasn't changed my mind.
  12. I also have had issues with this product but mine was the Satin version. I tried brushing a layer on a test piece then after leaving it for over 48 hours I tried adding another coat with a brush. Unfortunately the second layer started to reactivate the previous layer causing it to peel off like a skin. I contacted the company by email explaining the issue accompanied by the above photo. I was told that it could have been from a faulty batch and they were getting a new formula in, which would be tested and I would be informed of the results. If this batch was better they would replace my bottle, if not I could have another item as compensation. I have not heard back for over a month. The last email I received confirmed they had received a new batch but they hadn't managed to find time to test it out yet.
  13. Hi Mike, Just catching up on this thread post World Cup (can't believe its over and England got close to winning it!). That cockpit looks great so far. Mark.
  14. I find the canopy to be the most difficult part of a model to look tidy. There is very little room for mistakes on clear parts being transparent. 1:48 Canberra sounds good to me. Airfix I presume? Mark.
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