hendie

I wouldn't be so sure Bill - I had to remove that little extension in order to get the seats to fit in mine

I spent a while sanding today but nothing worth showing yet. I did a test fit of the upper gates to see how things are coming together and noticed a few tweaks that are required. The front gates should sit halfway between those flanges, so I'm going to reprint the flanged cowl with some small stand-offs to more accurately position the gates. Another reason for reprinting that cowl is that we have a little bit of warping going on. The first test print was better but I cured this one in sunlight yesterday so perhaps it was a bit too strong. which resulted in the front gates being a wee bit skee-wiffy. Ignore the lower gates for the moment, they are just resting in place and not pinned yet - and they're a bit too short anyway. I have a cunning plan though and the new cowl is being printed as I type so it should be ready tomorrow sometime and we'll see if my plan has worked. Or not. I'm sure it will be alright on the night

tidy paint job Ian. it really highlights the fact that you still need some wings n stuff

A small update for the weekend sir. There's not much in the way of visible progress since the last orbit, though there has been progress - and very time consuming it was. I printed a second Jeep as I wasn't happy with the first print. The second print came out much better though there were still some striations from the printing process. Its difficult printing something this large and challenges arise when there are changes in cross sectional areas, which is almost impossible to avoid with such a design. I spent a few hours sanding and got most of the worst areas cleaned up though being that greyish color meant it was difficult to determine exactly how well I was doing - so out came the primer to help. I used my airbrush and SMS primer for the upper section of the jeep but when it came to the main body, it was out with the aerosol car primer It doesn't look that bad in the photo but I've still got quite a bit of work to do to eliminate the striations. It would have been better if I had used a smaller layer height, but it was already taking about 16 hours to print at a layer height of 0.05mm. Multiply that by time by 5 if I went to a 0.01mm layer height and it would have taken all week to print I ran a quick test print of the seat today and forgot to scale it up to 111% to match the rest of the vehicle so it's a bit small. Grey resin you're asking? Aren't the seats clear perspex? Well, yes, but I wanted to see how the seats looked and if I had given them the right thickness. The grey resin was good enough for that. Despite being a little on the small side, the thickness of the seat looks about right so I can move forward with this. My current thoughts are to print a former for te seat and use 1.5mm acrylic sheet heated and bent over the former to make the seats - much experimentation and burnt fingers in my future. I need to reprint the lower doors as I was a bit shy on my width dimensions and there is a slight gap between the doors when in the closed position. Originally I planned on making the doors operable, but I know that the paint will get damaged around the pivot points after a few swings so I think I'm going to fix them in the closed position. Robby will just have to access the jeep a la batmobile style. it's coming along though. Getting good paint coverage in between all those slats on the doors is going to be a right pain in the a fun challenge. I'll let the paint cure for a bit and then get back to sanding again tomorrow

nice greebling Pete. looking at that back end, I can't help but think Turtle

The first test print is fresh out of the vat this afternoon I'd say it's a little bit better than the kit offering. My apologies for the quality of this second shot, but I think you can still see that it's not quite as frail looking as the kit part. It has a bit more substance to it. A couple of pieces broke off either in the printing or in the wash - the lifting eyes on top of the rotor head so I'll look at beefing them up a tad. I think I also lost the grease nipples on top of the bearings so that's something else to follow up on. I think I'll run these as a single assembly just for ease of handling and if they were separate pieces they'd be a nightmare to assemble. The whole thing is just over 20mm wide iirc. My thoughts here are that the kit blades would be trimmed at the root to remove the kit dog leg. Then drill a hole in the kit blade and use some brass rod to pin the blades to the rotor head. Even at this scale you should be able to use a 1mm diameter rod which should provide enough structural integrity to the joint. I'll probably print these out of clear resin - I know it will yellow in the process, but it will allow anyone to "fill" the reservoir with a nice reddish looking oil. You'll have to make your own droop stops though. I'll give them a try but the last time I tried to print those it didn't end well. Pitch rods will need to be added as well - 0.5mm or 0.8mm brass rod will do the job nicely. This was just a test print so I ran this at a layer height of 0.05mm. For the actual print I'll run those at 0.010 or 0.015 so there should be a small increase in the overall definition of the parts. Note: A heads up for anyone considering ordering the previous sets - they took a lot more work during clean up and post processing than I had anticipated so I'm going to have to make a small price adjustment, but I'll hold off until the new year before implementing that.

you mean this one? 😈😈😈 I'm printing off the prototype as I write this. I'm not committing to anything right at this moment with all the disruption scheduled to intervene with my modeling time over the next few months (Thanksgiving, Xmas etc.) However, I am looking at whether the rotor head and MRGB can be produced in 1:48, and perhaps 1:72. This is just a rough prototype and I have to figure out how to divvy it up for printing and assembly. I think it will be sturdy enough in 1:48, but it may be too fragile to withstand 1:72 - more testing needed. If it works I'll try and produce the MRGB along with it. I have to pretty much start from scratch on the MRGB as the 1:32 version was designed specifically for the Fly kit and applying a simple scale down to the existing model isn't going to work.

Thanks Peter. I had assumed from glancing at photos that the jeep was the same color as Robby himself. Some photos suggest that it is while others suggest that it is slightly different. It's certainly not a "classic" silver. It's more of a dark/charcoal silver. That eases the way somewhat as I was reluctant to pay the exorbitant prices being asked for the old Model Master paints. Having the jeep a different color should provide a nice contrast with Robby. Now I just need to find a nice charcoal silver paint

Hi George, thanks for your post. It's been a while since we crossed paths, hasn't it? Like you, I occasionally come across posts or comments related to Nigel and it brings a tinge of sadness. I miss his red cross parcels of crisps, and his recipes. (Mostly the crisps 🤣). I've often thought there should be an "In Memoriam" section on BM where late members could be listed by name with a link to all their builds listed in that thread - I actually went through a couple of Nigels threads recently. It would be nice to find a fill listing on one post. I hope all those health issues are behind you now, and look forward to seeing more of your work. P.S. I only post the good looking photos

Not really. The lineys never really had much to do with the folks in the bays. The name sounds familiar but that could just be my memory playing tricks on me. I can't put a face to the name. Sorry. Maybe if I saw a photo it might jog some of the old grey matter?

How come I haven't posted in this thread before now? Hmmmnnn... stiffeners and curvaceous ribs? Are we baiting a Ced trap?

I'll hang me coat on the first chair - just so's I can find the thread later when you get moving. You'll notice I resisted commenting on "wot no paint yet?" .

there's definitely a couple of fnaar's and at least one snurff in that last post Steve. THis going to look great even better once you start coloring it in

I don't often fall into the SciFi area but when I do, you're generally up to something interesting, Pete. I've no idea what a Stap is when it's at home, or away for that matter, but it looks to be organically growing over the A10 in a nicely fashioned mish-mashery.

Shouldn't it now be a (nice) Recovery van rather than a llunchbox?

It would be relatively straightforward - depending upon the thickness of the frame of course, but any resin printer should handle it without too many issues. I'd offer to help but I'm in the US and postage is a crippler for small one-off"s

There are easier ways, but here's how I did it on my Wapiti and Avro 504 First I created a series of planes along the length of the blade, then sketched a profile on each plane ending up with something like this which was then lofted into a blade. and when printed and painted up...

it's the little things - like the battery clamps, that lift this above being "just another model". Very nice work.

A good question, and one which at present remains unanswered. I always tend to start these builds without really knowing what I'm doing and never have a fully formulated plan in place. The wind deflectors are the easy part. Craft shops have a bunch of these fillable baubles around Xmas time. Luckily the diameter of the wind deflector works out as near as dammit to 3" or 75mm and those are available at a reasonable price. A slice off one of these will give me the perfect wind deflector. I'll need to design a fixture that will sit over the hemisphere at the correct level/height and allow me to use a razor saw to separate off the portion I need, but that won't be too difficult. The seats on the other hand... well. I considered vacforming though there are two major factors to consider here. One, I'm really crap at vacforming clear parts, and two, the thickness should be around 1.25mm which is a bit on the heavy side. Another thing to note is that over the years, the jeep has been modified and the seats which are currently on the jeep are not the originals. The current ones are all shapely and have nice little lips at the seat pan/seat back whereas the originals were very much like a piece of plexiglass just bent over a bar, so that makes the job just a little bit easier. I've tried making thin clear resin parts before using standard molding resin and the results weren't great - the parts always remained flexible. It may be something to try as beefing them up to 1.25 or 1.5mm thick might just give them the structural integrity they need. I may also experiment with a piece of flat acrylic - heat it with a heat gun and bend it over a rod. I also found these little chaps on one o' them thar auction sites, but I have a feeling the dimensions aren't going to work out for me. The seat pan is just a tad too narrow and the seat back isn't tall enough A bit more searching may uncover something more suitable so I'll keep trying. As you know, 3D printing with clear resin is fraught with difficulty in trying to avoid the dreaded yellowing. I have considered mixing clear resin with translucent blue to get a very faint bluish tinge to the clear parts. I know that won't be "accurate" but it may save a whole load of woes, if not a whole bunch of sanding If I end up doing the seats that way, I will also need to do the wind deflectors the same way to keep the colors uniform. One other factor to consider is that now I know what I'm looking for, I can keep my eyes out for potential butchery candidates - you just never know what can turn up in the most unexpected of places.

Thanks Pete. You're correct in that the jeep hovered in the movie, but since mine will be a static display I added some wheels (accurate to the original design drawing) just to keep the main body off the deck... unless I go down the path of the magnetic floating display

Many, many moons ago, almost a decade in fact, when I was little more than an ex-lurker on this here forum, I went and built myself on of these which can be found here if any one is interested. I've always liked a bit of Science Fiction, though I'm more of a fan of the classic Scifi stuff: Forbidden Planet, The Thing, Them!, Lost in Space, early Dr Who, and so on. Ini fact, my first ever build on BM was a completely scratch built 1/6 scale Dalek but I digress. Forbidden Planet is a Classic with a capital C, and even more Classic-er is Konishita's Robby the Robot. For me, Robby and Robot B9 (Lost in Space) are the epitome of SciFi Robot design even though, much like Daleks, they'd be completely gubbed if they came across a set of stairs. I'm still digressing aren't I? Oh well. Anyways, Robby has been sitting in a display cabinet for some time but I always thought he needed just that bit extra, just a bit more oomph. To that end, again, many years ago I started drawing up the Forbidden Planet jeep in CAD. AT that point it was 2D CAD as I fully (perhaps mistakenly) intended to scratch built the jeep in much the same way as I had the Dalek. i.e. from anything I had laying around or could lay my hands on by fair or even nefarious means. Beautiful isn't she? I guess Anne Francis is too However a small level of sanity prevailed and I knew that making the 4 front panels for the jeep would be a nightmare to make with any degree of uniformity and symmetry. Then I forgot about it for several years Then came 3D printing And I still forgot about it... until recently browsing t'interwb of a Saturday morning while sipping my morning coffee, I happened across these original plans for the jeep, and my failing memory kicked in - I was supposed to do one of these wasn't i? A bit more research was performed - only a little bit, or more precisely, a LOT of searching with very little success. It's amazing how few decent photo's of the original jeep are out there. Almost every photo I found was of a plastic model that was released a few years back. They come up for sale every now and then, but folks are always wanting upwards of $300 - $500 for them. I'm Scottish - it's not going to happen. (Plus, the model isn't all that accurate anyway). I took this opportunity to ignore my goto software SolidWorks, and instead concentrate on getting to grips with Fusion. Previous to this I've dabbled in Fusion and made a few small parts, but nothing of much worth, and nothing complex by any means. The Forbidden Planet Jeep isn't particularly complex, being made of simple geometric shapes, but it was going to give me the chance to exercise all the Fusion menus and figure out how the commands worked. After a week or so dabbling I had this Seen to better effect here. Ooh I thought...she's a biggun. I'd better go and measure my Robby (someone go get Ced) and see what size this needs to be. Now the Polar Lights Robby is supposed to be 1:12 scale and that was what I had created the jeep at. However, upon checking against Robby it was evident that someone had got their numbers wrong somewhere. I had to rescale the jeep by 111% in order for Robby to fit and look correct based on available photos'. The Jeep ended up somewhere around 300mm in length or more. My tiddly little Mars 3 just wasn't going to cut it, was it? Luckily enough, some bright spark at work had persuaded the powers that be to invest in an Elegoo Jupiter under the pretext that it would save us $$$$'s and many months of R&D time if we could print our own stuff instead of outsourcing. They believed me! Even so, getting the jeep on the build plate proved interesting Ideally, I would have liked to have printed this as more of a kit to be assembled, but the lines and curves of the jeep just didn't lend itself to that idea. The morning after the night before, and we have a jeep body The remainder of the parts I can print at home on the Mars 3, but without the Jupiter I could never have managed this. The current state of play is here Which is at this point, proof of concept. In this shot below, you can just make out two diagonal lines at the rear of the front "wheel arch". I didn't provide enough support structure for the print and the sides started splaying as they were printing until at some point, they jumped back in line leaving a slight step in the print. It's possible I could sand it out and get it all back flush though it would take a while - and a LOT of sanding that's why I'm printing another version out over this weekend - with more supports this time. It's a biggun Since nothing in my life ever goes easy, it has come as no surprise that the Model Master Gunmetal that I used to paint Robby all those years ago is now no longer produced and the few items I can find are being advertised at silly prices. It won't be quick, but it should be fun.

A quick update folks and just to let you know that everyone's order has been sent out today. The last time I sent a package to the UK it took around 7 days or so though in the past it has taken up to three weeks. You should all have your tracking numbers so at this point, it's in the hands of the USPS and your national postal service. I've been a bit lazy in that I haven't produced any instruction sheets for these items. For the most part it should be self explanatory, but there's one or two parts that may cause one to ponder, so hopefully this will clarify things a bit: For the exhausts, you will need to open up the hole by removing that tab Italeri almost filled the exhaust port up with, then remove the excess material on the inner face, circled in black here. That will allow the exhaust flange to sit flush against the inner wall. You can either choose to fit the exhaust as shown here (but painting will be a nightmare) Or, you can remove the flange at the base with a razor saw and glue the flange on the inner face, concentric with the opening, like this. That will allow you to paint the exhaust separately and add it at a later time. For those that purchased the WSX72 options, you will find that there are 2 different diameters of exhaust included (with spares). The smaller ones are what Italeri would have you install, but based on Bill's feedback I enlarged the diameter for a better fit, and have also included those in the set. For the engine bay lower firewall, you will need to remove some material on the lower surfaces - shown here scribbled with black marker. I just used a file to file a flat on each side. Unfortunately it's one of those file a bit, dry fit, file a bit, dry fit, repetitive exercises If you are going to keep the sidewall engine doors closed, you may need to remove some of the two side vents on the firewall. About half a millimeter should do it. Again, lots of test fitting and take it easy. You will no doubt come across some additional parts that I never mentioned before - two tiny tiny parts, and one not quite so tiny. These were an experiment on my part, but they turned out not too bad so I included them in the sets. Those parts are: The nose door latches and the pin thingy on the bottom of the door - both circled here. Careful - the door latches are handed Here's how I dealt with this - other forms of self flagellation are available. After thinning out the Italeri shell, and much dry fitting, the nose door firewall does eventually fit. It's certainly not the easiest job but fettling just a little bit at a time gets you there. I did have to remove some material from the bottom of the two intake ducts to get things to fit, and also adjust the angle of that central vertical panel by filing a bit off the bottom end. That left a small gap at the bottom, and I wasn't too enamored of the joint around the bottom of the firewall and the Italeri part - but the solution is straightforward. I used small segments of masking tape to follow that curve at the seam and used this as a template. The masking tape was transferred to a scrap of styrene sheet which was then trimmed back I then induced a curve into the styrene sheet and glued it in place (after making some cut outs to match the 1:1 panel). I deliberately left the rearmost edge overhanging the kit part and only trimmed that back once the glue had cured and the part was firmly fixed in place. The port side template is underway in this shot. Once that was complete, I added the door latches and the pin thing. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll answer them here

Excellent looking Wessex, Bill. Posing it with the nose door open just adds that more zing to it.

A man of your calibre should be able to just stare at the parts and have them pop out on their own

I'm not trying to be funny here but for your first question - ask 10 different people and you'll get 10 different answers. Q2: that depend upon which machine you use, what resin you use, and possibly the size and orientation of the part. Q3: Again there's a bunch of different answers depending upon who you ask. This is one if those you have to try it and see what works best for you. I use an Elegoo Mars 3 with standard Elegoo resins. I've tried producing clear parts on several occasions. I've had some success, and some failures (yellowing). I have heard that you can minimize/ eliminate the yellowing by brushing on a thin coat of clear resin after curing, then flash curing it (VERY briefly) with UV light, but personally never tried it. Have you considered using translucent colors? The translucent blue or red would probably work for visors.