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hendie

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Everything posted by hendie

  1. I can't remember if Tony or I have mentioned this, but you probably also want to get hold of Photon Validator (freeware). It's a great tool for the beginner - you can take you slice file from Chitubox and have it run through the Validator. The Validator checks each slice layer and can spot 'islands' that may result in a failed print, and it also has some build in optimization tools. I found it invaluable when I first started and it helped a lot. I don't use it anymore as once you've done a few prints, you start to get a feel for how things are going to print and where supports are required. Likewise in Chitubox I don't use the auto-support function at all now. I always add supports manually and haven't had any issues. Like everything, it all comes with experience. Looking at a part and visualising how each layer is constructed, recognising where supports are needed becomes a lot easier once you've done it a few times. I invested in a spare build plate thinking that it may speed things up when I'm doing multiple print jobs, but to be honest, I can remove parts, clean and level the build plate, and be back up and running in less than 5 minutes. It'll come in handy if I ever damage the original though. One thing I do is level the build plate prior to every print job. I'm not sure it's needed but it takes less than a minute I'd rather give up a minute than have a failed print job. I also bought a couple of spare resin vats. The most time consuming part for me is changing out the FEP film - it's not difficult, it just takes a little bit of time, so having 3 resin vats on hand is useful. When the FEP needs changed, I can just swap out the vat, and I wait until I've got two vats that need the film changed before I do the job as it doesn't take that much longer to do two at the same time.
  2. nice, simple solutions. Always the best.
  3. I use 70% IPA for cleaning the tank, the build plate, and the parts. I'd rather have just one chemical solution to have to order - I buy it by the gallon now. I tried Simple Green which seemed to get rave reviews, but to be honest, I find that the 70/30 IPA does everything I need it to. Personally, I wouldn't use anything on the FEP. I also bought some soft rubber squeegees to scrape the tank out when finished. This allows you to get most of the resin out of the tank and doesn't scratch the FEP in the process. Those aren't the exact ones I bought and I can't remember where I got them but I'm sure I got a pack of 10 for less than $10
  4. Johnny, I wouldn't use metal on the build plate in case you scratch it. I got these plastic razor blades from Amazon and they do a great job. ^ months in and I'm still on the first blade
  5. I've had to contact them on a couple of occasions, once for a software update and once to find out a screw fastener size, and I have to say they responded very quickly. They had a software patch to me within 48 hours (maybe 24), and even offered to send the screws - but Amazon was a quicker path. That Vixen is looking staggeringly impressive with the lid on. You must be feeling an immense sense of accomplishment knowing that it's all done by your own fair hands from start to finish.
  6. Nope. Nope. Nope. Not going back to change mine. Ain't gonna happen. No way.
  7. That's the way I do it Johnny. I know household glass blocks a lot of UV, but enough gets through to do the job. I prefer not to have strong sun in order to prevent any chance of warping due to heat. Any UV lamp would do though I would avoid the small enclosed types like nail curing stations as they generate a lot of heat
  8. The windscreen on this is so small I'm just going with printing it in clear resin. There's more frame than there is glass and it's so small I doubt anyone would be able to see any striations in the clear parts
  9. Nice work on the decals Tony. Not a task I'd relish but your work appears top notch. I'm sure they'll settle in just fine when they get their home.
  10. thanks Adrian. I agree, it's a much nicer scheme than that horrible blue color It's been a busy week here what with traveling earlier in the week and a bunch of other stuff going on at work, and trying to get some modeling time under my belt too. In the few odd moments I had to spare I colored in the engines. I thought it wise to do two and pick the best at the end of the day, and just in case I break one in the process. There's always the chance I'll break both of them, but I'm feeling bullish. The real big task of this week though were the seats. When I was drawing these seats up I couldn't find a good shot showing the location of the harness lock, so I added one on the left hand side of the seat. No sooner had I printed these and started painting when I came across a shot that showed the lock attached to the front leg Okay I thought, I'll have a bash but it soon became clear that my skills weren't up to the task, and the superglue was even less up to the task. Back to having the locks on the seat pan then. The two seats on the left are my attempts at the lock on the front leg, and the two on the right have the lock attached to the seat pan (much neater imo) I have since come across a few other shots that show that lock fitted in different locations so I'm quite happy with my choice now. The one really bad thing about seats is that they have harnesses, and I'm way too tight to pay for such after-market niceties. Therefore, I have to make my own. Mucho thanks to Bill for pointing me in the right direction re: color, which was later confirmed when I stumbled across a shot of a 660 Sqn Scout clearly showing the seat harnesses were black. As always, my go-to in these situations is the old cigarette packet liner paper, this time painted grimy flat black. Each section of harness is about 0.7 to 0.8mm wide. The 'labels' are more cig paper painted light grey, and the buckles are a combination of cig paper and a small length of styrene rod, both painted blue. At this scale, and from far enough away, and if you have eyesight like mine, they look convincing enough. But oh boy are they time consuming and a real pain to make. Some hours later we have yet more bits of harness Idiot that I am, I attempted to make the male attachment point on the side straps using 0.2mm wire. Once again, from far enough away it doesn't look too bad. It provides something to glint in the light and suggest there's a buckle thingy there. After a few more hours we actually get one seat completed. I've left the fun part for last - removing the seats from the supports. Made even fun-en-er when the parts are fully cured and quite brittle. Perseverance saved the day so it's obviously time now for a mojo-boosting dry fit. For the driver I added the collective from styrene and brass rod. It looks terrible in this shot, but honest guv, it looks better not quite so bad in the flesh Transmission deck hardware was given some Flory and a matt coat. Nowhere near our Spadgents standards but should look okay when it's all covered by piping and other gubbinses the Nimbii also got dirtied up a bit, probably a bit too much judging by this shot, but they've been flat coated so I'm going to run with them. As you can see, I've also started the ridiculous task of adding piping. Okay, it's only one wire, but it's a start. Lastly for this update, and this make be the straw that breaks the camels back - the windscreen/canopy affair. There is a huge gap between the canopy and the airframe. I can fit it tight to the rear, and it leaves an almost 2mm gap to the airframe at the front. If I fit it tight to the front, I get the same 2mm gap at the back end. Since I have to fair in the front end anyway, I chose to attach the canopy to the rear frame first and when that's cured and hardened off, I'm going to try and force the canopy forward to fix it in place, then fair it in. Of course, it may just break. I'll find out one way or another. Until I get the canopy fitted it's going to hold up the build as I need to get the airframe painted before I can start adding all the interesting greeblies behind the cabin. The tail. Dammit. I can't forget the tail - I need to modify that as well. Oh bother. Maybe I'll print some more engines off just in case.
  11. oh you lot. All that praise and it wasn't even finished yet The one glaring omission on this build and the one thing (well, one of two things) that was preventing me from crossing the finishing line were the roundels. I had to purchase an Xtradecal set from Hannants to get the right size, and it took it's time in the post. Then every time I went to the basement for a session, I kept forgetting about them. Eventually however... they got stuck on. Nothing exciting, just the usual faffing about - gloss coat, stick, settle, gloss, matt, done. That just left what I hope was the very last thing(s), and that I haven't completely forgotten about summat else too - the pitch change rods. For whatever reason I had neglected these when building the rotor head and only remembered at the very last minute. I even had to order in some fresh supplies to complete the job. For the rods I've used 0.5mm styrene rod as I needed some flexibility when dropping the rotor head onto the swash plate. After several trials I ended up using 7.5mm lengths of rod. To make life just a little easier, I used GS Hypo to glue the rods into the rubber balls on the rotor head to allow the rods to flex as I contorted myself trying to get the three rods into the three receiving holes on the swash plate. It wasn't the easiest job in the world but it could have been a lot worse. Yup, it's the white things They were then painted up and I followed up with some glamour shots now she's fully dressed with her make up on. I still love that filter. Surprisingly effective. Since I normally don't do RFI's, I'll just throw the rest of the shots in here and there we have it. Complete. A Whirlwind HAR10 or something reasonably close to it. She's already in the display cabinet, taking up the very last slot in there so now I need to hunt done another cabinet. Thanks to everyone who came along for the ride and commented - Yes, it was a fun build even though there were a few hairy moments. Now, where's that Scout... *edit* Yes Ian, I did get the cyclics added a few posts back. Once I took the masking off I had plenty of light to see where I had drilled the holes for them
  12. if only it were that easy Pete. I've got to psych myself up for tasks like that, and it may be some time Primer arrived Giorgio. Not convinced yet, and see later in this post another Elegoo convert. I should be on commission I can't wait to see what you come up with Johnny - slightly envious that you got the new fandabbydozy Mars. I haven't been able to justify it to myself quite yet I've got three updates to make tonight so I'll start with the smallest/easiest/newest problem build. The Wapiti. Tail surfaces got added which took all of thirty seconds, not counting the fifteen minutes I spent making sure everything was square and symmetrical. I'm convinced I have some sort of vision thing going on - For example, I look at the vertical stabilizer from head on and am convinced it has a slight lean, but when I turn it around and look from the rear, it still leans to the same side I used an engineering square and it appeared spot on, but my eyes still told me it wasn't. In the end I trusted the square 'cos I would never trust me in a month of Sundays. The new batch of Alclad grey primer arrived while I was away on my travels. First impressions? Well, it certainly seems less viscous than the last batch. It's also a slightly different shade of grey, almost creamy colored. I guess I should spray some and find out then. I got as far as this before having to give up I can't blame this on Alcad though - this is Paasche's fault this time. When I bought my airbrush set up, I saw all those 'cheap' Asian imports, and being a complete novice I didn't really know what to do, or which one was better (or worse). Since I had purchased a Paasche airbrush, I thought I'll go for a 'quality' named compressor setup even though it looked identical to the cheap imports and opted for the Paashe D3000R. I have to admit, it's been a workhorse and it's served me well over the past 6 or 7 years, maybe more and it's been great up until recently. While draining it one day I noticed that the O-Ring on the water drain plug had rotted away (it gets very humid here in the summertime so no real surprise). However on checking the pare parts manual the O-Ring wasn't listed - so I contacted Paasche Support direct. Complete waste of time - they had no idea and basically washed their hands of it. Out I went and bought a box set of O-Rings and out of 300 O-rings, not one was the size I was looking for. I've tried metric and imperial but can't find an O-ring that fits. The manual states that all the fittings are 1/4" NPT. That must be all the fittings except the damned water trap plug then, cos it certainly ain't 1/4" NPT. Since then I've tried bodging it to get through with plumbers tape etc. but today the compressor decided it was having none of it and wouldn't hold pressure. The best I could get was just over 10 PSI. So, after fighting with it for a while I decided it was time to give up and start thinking about buying a new compressor - if the new fittings I've ordered from Amazon don't work. Despite that, I did manage to achieve some decent coverage. I think the detail has popped out nicely and I'm especially pleased with the panel lines. The seams turned out not too bad either. They are by no means perfect, but once I've colored it in and covered it in silly string I think you'd be hard pushed to see the defects (particularly if I don't point the camera at them for you ) So there we have it. Just the smallest of updates, but at least I can get on with hole drilling until I get the compressor issues sorted out.
  13. for what its worth, I use SolidWorks and usually draw in millimeters, and export by STL I've had times when Chitubox has informed me the model is too big - I ignored the message and the model was fine. Between 3DS Max and Chitubox? I'd say STL is by far the most common, but it's not the only format. There's no reason why you couldn't use an OBJ file or other file format that Chitubox accepts
  14. sheesh. You're taking no prisoners on this build are you Bill. A good move though - that choice is going to give you what you're looking for internally as well as providing a sound base for the rooftop works later on.
  15. Challenging and not for the faint of heart, but you've got form for this type of stuff Bill, so I'm not unduly concerned. Concerned? No. Drooling with anticipation?, yes.
  16. Strangely enough Bill, I only just finished applying the roundels a few minutes ago
  17. Lovely! You'll thank us for this later, maybe not over the next few weeks, but eventually, you will. Did you order resin as well? (None is supplied with the printer). I can recommend the Elegoo standard grey resin. Remember to shout if you have any questions
  18. I wish I had a good suggestion for you Bill. I assume the fragility was due to only having half a bubble on top, and with it being cantilevered pretty much any force was going to dislodge it. Could you ignore the bubble for now, and wait until you have the fuselage halves together, and cockpit interior built? That way you would have the framework around the transmission deck in place to use as a solid base for adding the roofwork and canopy. It might make adding the glasswork more arduous though. Sorry, s'all I can think of at the moment.
  19. Recursive - using the same expletive repeatedly. I like it. Steve, have you considered GS Hypo for the transparencies. I've had good luck with that on several builds, especially when using vac-form transparencies. It has precision application, and retains a certain amount of flexibility when cured. Enjoy the Big Country
  20. as do I. I'm at the limits of my dexterity on that 1/48 Scout. How on earth you managed to achieve such a masterpiece in 1/72 is just bloomin amazing. I Love this stage in your builds Bill - when the carnage starts and the milliput blobs start growing. I'm probably not alone in thinking how is anyone going to rescue an aircraft shape out of that? Yet you do, every time.
  21. It appears this could be even more challenging (fun?) than the Revell kit. You certainly have your work cut out for you Bill.
  22. You could but I use a couple of old margarine tubs filled with IPA. First tub is the dirty wash - it gets rid of most of the excess/uncured resin, followed by the clean wash - to get rid of any remaining resin. When the dirty tub gets too dirty I discard it, the old clean tub then becomes the dirty tub and I bring a new one in as the new clean tub. I did buy one of those UV Nail curing stations, but I find it's too harsh (the heat can warp parts) and I now do all 99.5% my curing on the window cill. There's a bunch of consumables, but they're all nice and cheap. Things such as nitrile gloves, IPA, squeegee (for car vinyl), plastic razor blades, and so forth, but nothing crazily expensive. The resin itself is about $20 for half a liter, and that will generally last me for months Have you checked out my Wapiti thread. That should give you a good idea of what's possible with these printers along with Tony's Sea Vixen of course and the worlds your oyster. It can become addictive though. There you are, working away on a kit... you see a feature that's not well defined, or just plain wrong, and it's off to the keyboard for some design work and a couple of hours later the printer is fired up and chugging away Then there's just the downright impossible - when you are building something so custom that parts just aren't available as in my Pegasus build (warning - don't click link unless you have a few weeks of your life to waste away) In this shot, the luggage racks, chairs, wall lamps, table lamps, and curtains were all 3D printed
  23. For some reason the little star thing that shows me I've posted in this thread isn't showing up so you'll have to forgive me if I miss an installment Bill. Looks like this is shaping up to be a megafest of wanton destruction & carnage, and I can all sorts of tools being brought into the construction site. Just my mug of beer.
  24. I'd thicken the fins to 0.25 at least. If you turn the print upside down to print, you may only need one support at the center, and forget trying to support the fins
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