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Everything posted by nimrod54

  1. Here is a photo of the model with the Xtracolor Blue Angels paint on and it has been left to harden off for several days. I now need to give it a wet sand to smooth things out a little before continuing with the detail painting. by John L, on Flickr John
  2. I made a start on this F-18C over the past few days, tidying up and checking the fit of fuselage parts before painting some bits up, and last night I finished adding the few decals to the cockpit, and then put some weight in the nose. I have since glued the upper and lower fuselage halves together and these have now been put aside to allow them to set up. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr There are a couple of sink marks just behind the two strakes on the upper fuselage that need filling and that along with the join at the rear of the fuselage will be the next job. I have also been thinking about the scheme for this build and many years ago I bought two sets of Aeromaster Decals titled Stinging Hornets, the second set had two examples for the -18C. This one for the Sidewinders... by John L, on Flickr followed by this Golden Dragons example. by John L, on Flickr I am not sure which one to go with yet. Any suggestions? John
  3. And I have a 1/48 drawing of a GR.7 underside in a copy of Modellers Datafile 17 if it is of any use. If used with @Col.'s photo it should give you some idea of the flap actuators position, if that is the detail you are looking for.
  4. Try searching for videos H, I found this Youtube video of a GR.9 taxiing out and going through control checks (about 1min 20sec in). It's not from underneath and the quality is a bit naf, but I'm sure there will be plenty of others of second gen Harriers that will give you some pointers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ36Np5zX4M&ab_channel=DarrenBPlanesAutos HTH
  5. I finally got some primer on this yesterday, tacking the canopy in place first then masking it off. I will paint the canopy up before the end of the build. Today I sprayed on some Xtracolor Blue Angels blue and that has been set aside to dry. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
  6. Thanks Dennis. After deciding to go with rhe RCAF crest (which in the end seemed to be a logical choice for the visit to Canada) I printed a set of decals plus a few extras just in case. These were then sealed in with Microscale Liquid Decal Film and after leaving that overnight they were cut out and fixed in place. I printed them on white decal paper, but because they were going on a white background I could probably have used clear decal paper. Anyway, just to wrap things up here are a couple of shots of the final result. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr John
  7. Hi Pete, Whilst continuing my search for the marking, I came across this paper model of the same airframe, F3D-2 124603 I know that it would be better confirmed with a photo but I feel that the marking shown in this case is much closer to what I would expect to see. After searching for examples of both RAF/RCAF crests dated around the 1960 I found this one used by RCAF between 1950/60 and when compared to that shown above I think that it is pretty close. I am going to go with that to complete the markings - time to knock up a couple of decals. John Thanks a lot Dave. Some of the improvement work can't be seen and replacement seats (also available from Pavla) would have been enough, but I like to see what can be done to bring these older kits up to date when possible. The reason you highlighted for not weathering is No.2 on my list, I have this constant fear of going too far and ruining the model in the process, as a result I probably undercook my weathering when I make an attempt to do it. I agree with you, best in the main for me to stick with clean, crisp builds, and have an occasional play with art of weathering, maybe one day something will click. Cheers again mate. John Cheers Pat, the rescribing was worth the effort, and looking at it now that it is finished there are a couple of areas that I may have been able to improve further, filling and rescribing some of the Matchbox panel lines for one and I think that the nosewheel should sit a little deeper in the bay. Overall though, I am pleased with how it has turned out, and it's nice to add something different to the aircraft collection. Regards. John
  8. Douglas F3D-2 Skynight 124603, VFAW-3 Cdr. Eugene A. Valencia, May 1960 1/72 Matchbox PK-134 with Print Scale decals by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Since posting these photos in the gallery I have added the decals to the centre of the fuselage stars and bars. I felt that those supplied with the Print Scale set were not correct and set about searching for likely replacements. With photographs of the actual aircraft proving difficult to find, I settled on an image of a paper model which sported the RCAF crest in that area. The decal sheet simply refers to the decal as a British symbol that was added when on a visit to Canada and the flag was added to the tail at the same time. Having decided that the RCAF crest was the more likely option I went with it and printed some decals on white decal paper. This last image is of the model as it stands now and replaces the underside view posted previously. by John L, on Flickr
  9. Thanks Dave. Since the last update the model has had a light weathering using Flory's Dark Dirt clay base wash and that has brought the panel lines. Today I applied a Satin clear layer to seal all of that in. I have still not resolved the issue with the correct marking applied to the stars and bars on the rear fuselage, as stated previously the decal instructions simply state that it was a British marking applied during Cdr. Eugene A. Valencia's trip to Canada in May 1960. After discussions with @PeterB we came to the conclusion that the marking supplied did not represent a British marking that we knew of, with the likely possibilities being either the RAF or RCAF emblems. I was sure that I had come across images that showed the RAF emblem in that position but I have not been able to find those again, and just to confuse things even more I thought that this coat of arms for the Monarchy of Canada could also be a possibility. Anyway until I can be sure of what should be there I will leave it blank, and after todays work I am calling this one finished. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr As you can see, my weathering technique needs more practice, and is one of the reasons that I don't usually try it on my builds. Thanks to all for the comments and assistance along the way and to Dave and Pat for hosting this Matchbox Classic GB. It has been a blast fellas and I have had a lot of fun. Cheers. John
  10. I spent some time tidying up the fuselage and removing more moulded detail not applicable to a Blue Angels F-18A before adding the wings a twin tails. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Just as an aside, I thought that I would share my last Hornet build which was this Dragon EA-18G in 1/144 scale, built getting on for 4 years ago now. The kit came with the Carrier Launch Deck, vehicles and figures, a fellow Britmodeller supplied some spare figures which I used to busy up the deck a bit more. After studying several pre-launch videos I configured the model going through final checks and with all control surfaces in a similar set up, here's the end result. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr John
  11. Looking good Mike. I have built a few of the Dragon Hornets - the last one being a Growler variant, but have some Revell kits in the stash including this one, so I will be interested to see how it goes together. John
  12. With one build nearing completion for the Matchbox GB and a second for the Bomber/Strike/Ground Attack GB waiting for paint to arrive, I decided it would be a good time to make a start on this Academy F-18. Whilst having a rummage through my box of AM parts I came across this etch set for the Academy kit (probably bought for another kit - but not used) so I thought that I would use some of it on this build where I feel that it is an improvement over the kit part. The first area to receive some etch detail was the cockpit, and I spent yesterday afternoon adding the screens, instruments and side console detail, along with a small bay to the nosewheel area. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr After a test fit of the cockpit/lower nose assembly, I had to fit a small piece of sprue to spread the parts to ensure that they would align correctly with the upper fuselage section, that was set aside to dry before the parts fit was checked again. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr John
  13. I am on the final stretch with this build now. I've finished applying the decals along with a few of the stencils form the Print Scale set, the stencils are quite legible, but disappointingly they only appear to have supplied enough for one side in some cases, and to that end I have just applied those that required a single application. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr The next update should be the final one for this build. John
  14. Now where were we. Ahh yes... After that I made a start on the decals, getting most of the main decals on the starboard side and the top of the wings completed. I am going to leave that to set up over night before working on the port side and underneath. That will leave a bunche of stencils to finish this stage off. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Thanks for checking in. John
  15. After masking up the exhaust outlets this morning I painted those up, then added some short lengths of plastic straw to the outlets that I had primed and painted up with a Jet Exhaust colour prior to installation. by John L, on Flickr Back shortly, Mrs N says that I can't play out any more coz mi dinner/tea is ready.
  16. I was at Old Trafford in 93 when Warnie bowled that magic ball. It looked to be heading down legside and I am sure Gatting must have thought the same, to see it nip back behind his legs and go on to hit the wicket was amazing. I was lucky to have just witnessed the finest piece of legspin bowling I have seen. Rod Marsh and Shane Warne were two great players for their country, and a fantastic inspiration for many young players coming through. A sad loss for all fans of the game and the world of cricket. For when the one great scorer comes To write against your name. He writes - not that you won or lost But how you played the game. RIP guys,
  17. Nice red colour Enzo, I also went with a Vauxhall colour for my Jaguar build, this is looking really sharp. John.
  18. I agree Pete, until it is confirmed either way I think that the marking should be regarded as spurious. John
  19. Thanks for your help again Peter, it's much appreciated. I thought that I would broaden my search and have had a look through Canadian, British and US Military symbols and have come across this one for US Coastguard which has crossed anchors. I am now wondering if Print Scale did not have permission to use the RAF emblem, so decided to cobble something together from a couple of US sources. Until I can verify the marking I will leave that decal off for now. Thanks again. John
  20. Thanks very mich Dave. I have spent some of the afternoon brush painting the wheels with Revel Anthracite for the tyres and sevetal of the black areas had Citadel Abaddon Black brushed on once they had been masked off. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr The scheme that I am planning to use for this build is this one from a Print Scale decal sheet. by John L, on Flickr The blurb for the aircraft states that when in Canada the British insignia was applied to the stars, but I haven't been able to confirm if the decal supplied is genuine. I have tried searching for photos of the actual aircraft but have only come across a couple of other profiles that show the RAF emblem in that position. Can anyone tell me what the decal circled below is, and whether it is a genuine British symbol? It's not one I am familiar with. by John L, on Flickr Cheers. John
  21. @Corsairfoxfouruncle, @jean, @Rabbit Leader, Thanks for your birthday messages and comments fellas. I unmasked the model a couple of days ago but I wasn't happy with the soft edge definition between the Light Gull Grey and the White which was probably due to my choice of using Blu-tac White to set the boundary between the two along the fuselage. Today I remasked the areas affected with tape and resprayed the grey along the tape, when it was unmasked again, I had the harder edge that I was after. Looking back, I don't think that I rolled out the White Tac worms thin enough, but it was an easy fix in the end as can be seen in the following photos. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Time now to push on with painting the black areas and smaller details. John.
  22. Looks great H. Take care out on those roads bud. John
  23. Hi Jean, Thanks for your comment and apologies for the late reply, but it is my birthday and we have just had a virtual party with our son and daughter-in-law who live in the Netherlands. A night of playing games with plenty of fun and laughter. Anyway time to get back to the serious stuff. This is looking OK now I have got the topcoats on, I'll give it another once over tomorrow in the cold light of day before unmasking, then it will be time to paint a few details before starting on the decals. John.
  24. I airbrushed some white on the flight control surfaces and underside yesterday. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr And this morning I masked everything up and airbrushed the topsides with Light Gull Grey. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr John
  25. Thanks for the tip Dennis, I will store that away for future use. The pylons that come in the kit are quite thin and are probably underscale, so I decided to add them in this case. Cheers John
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