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Posts posted by Rodders154
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(other imaging programs are available)
I am looking for someone who can help me reverse the colours on the decals for the air filter on the Sea king HC4 / Mk3A so that the bits that are grey and the bits that are black are reversed. That would look better than the current scheme.
I have a colour laser that can print them but am rubbish at using any of the photoshop type software. I was hoping to just be able to take the new image and put it into a word document and print off some for my own use.
If you see the image below you can see what I mean (forget the red rings)

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How did this one turn out or is it on the shelf of doom
Rodders
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lovely build love the rotor folding
Rodders
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lovely builds
I wish I had your skill.
Rodders
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I'm very interested
Rodders
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16 hours ago, stevehnz said:
There is an alternative to the MA set, I know I've looked at mine & thought I'll probably end up going this way, now I'm sure of it. Olsmodels decals here in New Zealand does decals for Kiwi subjects that are researched locally & from what I have seen perform OK. Have a look well to the bottom of this page, you'll find a sheet for a SH-2F in 1/72. The colours look rather better than the MA ones to my eye at least.
Steve.
Thanks Steve,
I have ordered a set $17 with postage by the time they get here I may well have got my mojo back on this one
So until then its heading to the shelf of doom.
Rodders
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On 20/10/2016 at 11:22 PM, Martian Hale said:
Nearer Medium Sea Grey if I remember correctly.
I would check that the correct grey is given in the Model Alliance instructions for the main airframe. When I built mine I followed the painting instructions to the letter and the decals promptly vanished when I applied them. Upon investigation, it transpired that these New Zealand cabs were a very pale grey, much paler than Model Alliance recommend in their instructions. It maybe that the 1/72 instructions are OK but I would strongly advise you to check this out. This happened to me a week before Scale Modelworld and I remember I was not a happy bunny at the time!
Martian
Oh boy, I wish I had read this before painting and putting on the decals so what now?
Do I strip it or wot?
This build is kicking my backside at every turn. Martin did you find that even though the walkway decals said 72 they were in fact 1/48 and didn't fit do I ended up using the airfix walkways I tried trimming the blocks by the tramission tunnel but it still doesn't look right.

There is a roundel and RNZN markings and the fuselage band in this picture. HONEST

Rodders
EDIT just looked at the decals and the do look darker on the paper. also shown the 1/48 walkways

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Fantastic job I'm not sure I would let a cat get that close
Rodders
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I have had a go and I managed to get the blinking glass back in after cleaning it up
Paint on have to touch up the engine intakes and a few other places and then ready for decaling.
Kit states the underside of the rotors are black and the tops grey does the panel think that the grey would be somewhere around DK sea grey or medium sea grey?
Anyway Pictures



Not sure if I shall have the doors open or shut The belts are decals
After the touching up then on to decals
Rodders
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like it lots
Rodders
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OH DEAR
I have screwed it up . I messed up the masking on the rudder pedals windows and the primer has etched it. whilst trying to sort it out I pressed too hard and the window came out and it is now a) suitable to be used in a bathroom due to its opacity and
it won't go back in.
What to do I am sure Airfix won't have the glass in stock!
Rodders
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A little more progress
The kit has some horrendous sink marks which I filled with Mr Surfacer 500 You can see some on the top by the rotor housing and on the wheel struts in this photo

The fulsalage was held in the air to allow plenty of time for the wheel axels to set as they do not appear to be the strongest joint going

Tail stabilisers added and getting ready for the masking

All joints and sinkmarks are filled and the join as best I could do in the insides of the exhausts The pictures I have see of the prototype aircraft seem to have the launchers under the cockpit but are not clear so I have added them.


All done and ready for masking the wheel bays and various bits more when I have done it
Rodders
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I have not progressed much further other than coating the clear parts with floor polish ready for placing in the model. I don't know how many of you use superglue for fixing clear parts I admit when I was told it could be done I was skeptical but if you cover the clear bits with Kleer it does work and you don't get the problem with the glass falling in when you try to mask it.

Thank you all for the stories and helpful hints along with where I can spend money (got to get the G conversion) I hope to have it buttoned up by the end of the weekend.
Rodders
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I thought about getting another one for the stash then I saw what they are going for on eBay and thought that I am glad I found out how expensive they were until after I had started it.
Colin it would have been good to have the conversion as all current aircraft are the G model then I could have had a choice of many more insignia.
Rodders
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On 12/10/2016 at 8:16 AM, stevehnz said:
That's something I'll need to address when I do mine, I've a resin conversion I got from Poland via Facebook to do a G, it will still need modding for the swivelly thing in the nose which the Polish Gs don't appear to have had. Sorry I can't help with info for the F, I'd be googling for anything to tell you.
I,'m guessing you've seen this page. http://www.kiwiaircraftimages.com/seasprite.html
Steve.
I didnt see this one but it has the info that I need A few updates
Instrument panel painted ready for putting in the fuselage side

As you can see I use coffee sticks and the little self advisive pads to hold the IP to make it easier to paint
Here it is in the side of the a/c (yes I bite my nails)

Uisng the link Stevehnz supplied I see that it didnt have the tube launchers on the side so they had to come out
First put in some plasticard to fill the gurt hole

Then using MR surfacer500 fill in the gaps and prime

Decals have arrieved (image from ebay) I'm doing the top one.

More to follow
Rodders
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I have just finished a mossie and it doesn't look half as good as yours
Well done
Rodders
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8 hours ago, stevehnz said:
What Wyvern4 said about decals, I normally reduce mine with an overall buffing with some fine wet & dry so there is a representation of them, & as you say, its not so obvious where you've cleaned up filler. I'm looking forward to this, I've seen a lot of the RNZAFs S2Gs but not the trials ones, this will be something new for me.
Steve.
Hi Steve the problem I have is the G version does not have the launchers on the side but I don't know about the early ones hopefully the decals when they come will show me.
Rodders
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Cabin coming together I have decided that hopefully by the time I have primer and a couple of coats of paint and a varnish they may not be too prominent.
I know that decals for seatblts are not everyones cup of tea but they are fine for my style of modelling.

The top VDU is in place the orange is an airbrush test on the primed cabin wall to see how it would turn out it will be hidden when its closed up..
I assume that the area under the VDU would be some sort of desk and that is why I have placed a decal to represent the writing area.

Rodders
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On 27/09/2016 at 10:08 AM, little-cars said:
That's similar to how long is a piece of string.
There are a number of companies offering their own and other companies aftermarket parts for models, depends on the subject, scale, part etc...
I'd choose a subject and have a look what companies google throws at you.
But Hannants is always worth a look even to get the names of the companies that make the type of parts you are looking for.
Paul
I have always had a great deal from little cars when visiting their stall at shows.
Rodders
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Rivets, do I sand them off or reduce them or do nothing?
The actual aircraft does have a lot of rivets and so does the Lynx which looks not right when you build the Hobbyboss model so I am in a bit of a 2 and 8 as to what to do.
My gut goes with leave it but when you sand joints then you do lose some of the rivets along the way. . What do you reckon chaps/chapesses
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Found this is the stash and decided to move it up the to do list so here it is
It is said that this is one of the best kits that Airfix made and looking at it I can see where they are coming from. I have yet to decide the markings but I am inclined to do one of the 2 original trials aircraft for the RNZN seeing as my daughter lives in that far away country.
As you can see the box features the kit made up and the inside is cramed full of sprues.

Lots of pieces

Unfortunately the model as lots of sink marks as well as injector pin marks but then again that is what Mr Surfacer is made for. I wonder how I got along without this marvellous product before. This is the radar screen that hangs down from the roof and as you can see there is an awful sink mark but it will be filled and you wont know the difference.

So onto the building I don't normally take long to build a model and I cant see this being any different

Rodders
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21 hours ago, glatisant said:
Excellent.Really nice build.The Italeri kit is a nice kit,unlike some of their helicopter kits.
I believe this is the old esci kit
Lovely job really looks the biz
Rodders
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looking good I remember the ADV well. a bargain I would say keep the updates coming.
Rodders
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do you have any idea of the uk price?
Rodders
























pair of 1:48 Trumpeter Dauphin helicopters
in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
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nice
excellent build